Recent content by Theo

Apparently, they use Formula brakes:

I was thinking about the fact that initially we were given the ability to set the charging current and then the charging power. According to the specification sheet downloadable from Stark’s site in its support section, the voltage range for an MX 1.0 is 250 - 420 V. This means that if you...

No need to offend yourself but you are mistaken since it's the peak torque that is available at 1 rpm, not the peak power. AC permanent magnet motors like the one of the Varg typically have maximum torque from 0 rpm to half the rpm range, so this means that the acceleration should be constant...

One piece of information to answer whether the bolts kit is worth it is to know what happens if you buy it and then need to replace one bolt for example because you strip it or because you lose it: can you buy the single part? If not, you'll either replace it with a steel one or you will need a...

Surely there are some electric bike haters and I've met more than one who told me something like but the same day in which you wrote about that episode, I was at a MX track and, while my Varg was under charge, a kid asked me whether it was a Stark, I said it was and he said it's an awesome bike...

@Airboy808: I haven't read all the details of your posts because of lazyness from my side, but that TM must have looked spectacular before the conversion, like all TMs, and looks like it will be spectacular after you'll have completed it. And I'm not saying this just because I an Italian. I...

I've removed the bolt in this way: The bolt looks like an M14 X 1.5 steel bolt, maybe heat treated, whose thread has at least 8 coils. Therefore, it's quite likely that something like this can withstand 80 Nm and that it can even withstand more than that during loosening while some torque is...

If it’s a clutch MC, make sure that you can use DOT brake fluid and that it’s not designed for mineral oil instead. Very neat, cool looking bike BTW.

As per Stark’s power unit replacement video, the front sprocket bolt, during reassembly, should be tightened at 80 Nm: it sounds like much. I haven’t found other sources of information about it in their manuals or guides. Have you really tightened it so much?

Thank you for these. One important question @madkuku: those tutorials are AI generated and I completely understand it because I would have used AI, too, in your shoes, but has any human checked that they are mistakes free? For example, take this as constructive criticism, but in your pull rod...

I’m planning to clean the old thread locker and use new medium strength thread locker just to be safe. I check that the fasteners are tight, on a regular basis, anyways. Thanks to everybody for the answers so far (I haven’t done the job yet because I’m still waiting for the parts).

I'm going to remove the front sprocket to replace it and I'm afraid it won't be a dull job like it could seem. The front sprockets I have dealt with so far either had a nut and a locking washer with tabs or a circlip. Apparently, the Varg has a KTM style bolt with threadlocker and I've read...

Well, usually Husqvarnas are premium KTMs, so, according to this logic, it may make sense that the Pioneer has the onboard charger.

I like the fact that the frame is purpose-built for the electric battery and powertrain, that contribute structurally. I haven't understood whether that charger is an onboard charger and if its weight is included in the 112 kg. Here in paragraph 3 they say that the battery is IP67 rated: I...

That's true and now that I read your comment it also occurs to me that with (almost) no load the probability to have shavings in the oil decreases, too.