EBMX X-9000 Regen Hand Brake

I thought this might be an interesting video for this forum. For a while I had been using regen thumb throttles and I love haven full control over regenerative braking whenever I want. However I found on long downhill sections it tires me out using the regen thumb throttle because you have to break your grip to use it. Since you have only 1 thumb and several fingers it makes sense to use a lever instead. Since most ebikes don't have a clutch lever it makes sense to have a left hand regen brake so I set out to make one for my EBMX X-9000 controller. I really like it I can use it with 1 finger, 2 finger, sorta 3 finger. I can also keep one finger underneath it and and sandwich it between the handlebar and lever for a kinda half brake cruise control.

Since I'm using the EBMX X-9000 controller on my WR250R conversion bike I am building one for it and it'll be even better because that bike has a mechanical footbrake. So there will be less clutter on the handlebar.

Part 1 - Intro + Wiring


Part 2 - Throttle Cable Modification


Part 3 - Installation + Testing

To build this regen hand brake you will need:

3-pin HIGO connector https://amzn.to/4jyIP5B

Pitbike Clutch Lever Assembly (Black) Amazon.com
or
Pitbike Clutch Lever Assembly (Red) https://amzn.to/40O5XFO
or
Pitbike Clutch Lever Assembly (Blue) Amazon.com

Sur Ron throttle box Light Bee Throttle Controller

Sur Ron Throttle Box Cable (Imported from UK these are impossible to find nowadays, not even Sur Ron Canada has them) Sur-Ron Throttle Cable Surron Light Bee 2018-2020 Electric Motorcycle LBX | eBay

References:
Light Bee Wiring Diagram https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...77/1601026952416/light-bee-wiring-diagram.pdf

HIGO Connector Wiring Diagram (Use Bafang BBHSD diagram) https://ebikestuff.eu/img/cms/kart_throttle_pinout_differences.png


Also this might work with other controllers that have regen throttles that have the HIGO connector. You have to be able to calibrate the throttle though.

Hi Hades,

thanks for sharing this.
Was funny seeing you Soldering that Cableend xD I was standing on a similar Problem some time ago when I needed a new end of a Cable of my Throttle Box.
Let me show you the option I went with
in the wold of bicyles you can find brake cable ends:


you can get them in various sizes and screwing types.
Then insert your Cable end and you can decide if you solder it in or if you fill it up with Hard Locktite and force in the screw.

I currently use the Thumb Throttle as an E-Clutch for my Fullsize MX CRF Build with the X-9000 Controller.
And I really like this feature.
Currently I have eliminated the OEM Rear Footbrake and have installed a lefthand rear brake but I catch my self ever so often mostly in dangerous situations when muscle memory instinctly gets my foot to reach for the brake only to realize there is nothing and then brain kicks in and says use the f****** left hand lever xD
So after seeing your vids I might also try it that way but to use the hand lever as an E-Clutch and reinstall the OEM Footbrake.

Cool yeah I can't believe soldering the end worked so far it's been through a handful of races no problems.

I am going to build one for my WR250E project just like the Light Bee. I intend to keep the footbrake as a backup. I found out a jetski throttle will also work with the Sur Ron throttle cable but the cable still needs to be modified. I wish I can find an off the shelf solution.

Thanks for the info on the cable ends that looks like it'd work great.

so I finally got around to finish up my "E-Clutch" Lever Basically the same @HadesOmega you did but with some different parts.

here the parts list (amazon links are from german Amazon but I am shure something similar is available in Amazon US):
-Brake Cable: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09RPXXY1H/
-Brake Cable End Pin that fits into the E-Cable box: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BNKQ8KQP/
-Cable Lever Adjuster screw: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.35.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-3-Pin Female Cable: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.41.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-MX Bike Clutch Lerver: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.47.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-E-Cable Box (way cheaper then with the surron logo on it ): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.53.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

Soldering is probably the better route. The screw type damage the cable which could lead to a failure. The soldered joint will not and if done right will hold just fine. I have used used the screw type for rod connections on pedal steel guitars a lot though and they work great cinching onto a solid rod, the squish and kink cable.

Not saying they won't work, just talking best practices

fmxxx666 said:

so I finally got around to finish up my "E-Clutch" Lever Basically the same @HadesOmega you did but with some different parts.

here the parts list (amazon links are from german Amazon but I am shure something similar is available in Amazon US):
-Brake Cable: Easyboost Kupplungskabel Ø2mm Universal 2 Meter mit Ummantelung und Schraubnippel Kupplungszug Reparaturset Kabelklemme für Motorräder Cross Moped Mofa : Amazon.de: Auto & Motorrad
-Brake Cable End Pin that fits into the E-Cable box: ECSiNG 10 Stück Bremskabel Nippel Schrauben Ersatz Motorrad Lötfrei Gaszug Nippel Zubehör für Auto Motorrad Fahrrad Metall : Amazon.de: Auto & Motorrad
-Cable Lever Adjuster screw: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.35.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-3-Pin Female Cable: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.41.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-MX Bike Clutch Lerver: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.47.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-E-Cable Box (way cheaper then with the surron logo on it ): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.53.6ab35c5fE5y5wv&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

Click to expand...

I just ordered the parts. Thanks guys!

Cool. I just use it in a race this weekend and its great for backing it into the corners in the dirt.

HadesOmega said:

Cool. I just use it in a race this weekend and its great for backing it into the corners in the dirt.

Click to expand...

@HadesOmega and @fmxxx666 you guys inspired me to jump all over the regen brake lever. I took one of the old CRF450 throttle cables and adapted it to the Surron throttle box. I'm so excited to try this. Thank you so much for the inspiration! Dave

Dave Daum said:

@HadesOmega and @fmxxx666 you guys inspired me to jump all over the regen brake lever. I took one of the old CRF450 throttle cables and adapted it to the Surron throttle box. I'm so excited to try this. Thank you so much for the inspiration! Dave

Click to expand...

you don't need to get the full travel out of it, as long as you calibrate it for the way it works currently.

HadesOmega said:

Cool. I just use it in a race this weekend and its great for backing it into the corners in the dirt.

Click to expand...

Could you please describe the effect of full re-gen pull of the lever on the rear wheel and engine?
Particularly on the steep, long downhills.
Are you still in favor of finger lever over the thumb control?
Is your re-gen similar to the Stark Varg?
Thanks.

You can adjust how strong you want the regen in the app. I find for going down long hills its actually too much regen. The bike slows down too much. I'm usually half on the regen. For MX type riding I can lock the rear and back it in with the regen. I've never ridden a Stark Varg with a regen throttle. But it's pretty simple you pull the lever and it will start engine braking. Pull it more if you want more. When the regen is engaged it will also cancel out the throttle. So your throttle inputs do nothing. So if you have the throttle open and you dump the regen it will take off hard if your not carefull kinda like a clutch. I don't like doing that because it might loop the bike. I'll whack the throttle open fast if I need a large burst of power. I like the lever much better than the the throttle for offroad and downhills. For supermoto I actually prefer the thumb throttle.

I really wish fardriver had variable regen. It's such an amazing feature, and fairly simple to encorporate in a controller. I don't understand why more companies haven't started putting that feature in their controllers yet. I suppose it's cost, because that would require producing a different board, which would probably require raising prices to accomplish

The first controller I used that had the regen throttle was the ASI BAC controllers. I had a far driver and I didn't like it. It wasn't very tuneable or user friendly at least. I couldn't get the regen to work at all on it so I'm selling it and I got the EBMX for my WR250. A lot of newer small emotos have the regen throttle now also. Talaria and the Ventus have them. I heard Zero Motorcycles you can rig a pressure switch to a hydraulic master cylinder and actuate regen with that. I think VTB (Ventus) controller also have them. So they are starting to gain some traction.

HadesOmega said:

The first controller I used that had the regen throttle was the ASI BAC controllers. I had a far driver and I didn't like it. It wasn't very tuneable or user friendly at least. I couldn't get the regen to work at all on it so I'm selling it and I got the EBMX for my WR250. A lot of newer small emotos have the regen throttle now also. Talaria and the Ventus have them. I heard Zero Motorcycles you can rig a pressure switch to a hydraulic master cylinder and actuate regen with that. I think VTB (Ventus) controller also have them. So they are starting to gain some traction.

Click to expand...

the ventus controller is an x9000, just fyi.
Which fardriver controller do you have? and when did you buy it, and what version of the app were you using with it? It was probably a setting not set correctly for why you couldn't get it to work. Or you had a bogus version of the app; there's a lot of hacked versions floating around with malware built in, that are only partially functional with the controller itself. If you want to try getting it working, I can help with that.

It's not an X-9000, it's a VESC based controller but it's not made by EBMX. The specs are different also. It can handle an 84V battery whereas the X9K V2 can't.

I ditched that Fardriver controller it's in the for sale section along with the battery.

HadesOmega said:

It's not an X-9000, it's a VESC based controller but it's not made by EBMX. The specs are different also. It can handle an 84V battery whereas the X9K V2 can't.

I ditched that Fardriver controller it's in the for sale section along with the battery.

Click to expand...

Really? I could have sworn Ventus themselves confirmed it was the x9000 v3 (not v2), just with a custom Ventus heatsink.

The X9000 v3 specs specifically states input voltage range 40v-120v. So maybe the v2 can't handle a 84v battery, but the v3 sure can.
I looked up the v2 specs, it says input voltage range 40v-100v, and working voltage 48v-82v. So that is a little confusing for what it can use for a battery, because a 23s pack is 96.6v fully charged.

Well I rode the Ventus One last year and EBMX didn't have the X9K V3 available. Maybe the newer ones have the V3. The V3 JUST came out. The Ventus One is just a 79bike Light Bee clone with their motor, controller, and battery. It is ridiculously fast.

The V2 can't handle an 84V battery because I tried. When it's fully charged its around 96V and that little extra 2V is enough to trip an over voltage fault. Bridger and Jared from EBMX explained it to me that the controller needs some headroom to operate reliably so 82V nominal battery is the the max you can use. Which is if you ask me false advertising. The controller will not operate when the 84V battery is fully charged.