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That crossed my mind when everything was opened up. But i never would've guessed it needed to be that close to be able to balance. Going to ride it a couple times and see if it gets any worse. Then perhaps open it up again as the wheather is not so nice anymore.

I did not used it, because it gave an estimated time of 2 hours. But would it do any better then the balancing with the charger?

On a side note, Does anybody had any problems with the original rear tire inner tube? Me and my brother both teared one at the weld of the tube. Never seen that before. Must be a bad batch or something, or offcoarse the monstrous torque :D

I have a question about the balancing function in multitool. What does it exactly do, and do i need to connect the charger? When i click on it, every P group does get a dot at the bottom of the graph. Does this mean it is going to lower all these groups? After completly charging it again the...

Then i went for a ride. And with around half of a charge left, connected it back to multitool. At that point the fault code reappeared. That was a little bit harsh after all the work and effort put in... Loaded the data, and the difference in voltage during the ride between the P group was only...

Then i charged the bike fully, and waited for it to balance completly. I was then able to erase the code 36/35 in Multitool. And the difference in volts with the affected P group was only 0,01 V. Before it was actually a little higher then the rest of the groups after charging.

a little update on my progress fixing the code 35/36. I did pull the battery apart, and found 1 wirebound that was not welded very strong. It looked like it was attached one time, but you could see it was not welded as strong as the rest by inspecting it closely. I did reconnect it by...

While on the subject, I remember reading somewhere on the forum what the numbering of the 4 modules was relative to the viewing in multitool. But i can not find it anymore. Is module 0 on top of the battery and 3 on the bottom? Or the other way around? Thanks

Well, due to a lot of things that happend lately, I still didn't openend my battery. But i am planning for next weekend to make some time free. Anyways, I remember reading somewhere on the forum what the numbering of the 4 modules was relative to the viewing in multitool. But i can not find it...

Yeah good point, it's only for the 220V europeans.

To come back on the original problem of this post. I did replace the GFCI switch with this one: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00475BIQE/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1 That solved all my problems. It's a little less sensitive then the stock one.

They will fit nice with the custom "factory" stand i have in the make.

No, i did use a seperate batterycell to do tests on. As i have a possible broken wirebond in my battery pack, i wanted to do some test first before opening everything up. It would probably be possible to replace and reconnect all cells of the battery pack. But that would be costly and time...

Did some updates to the bike aswell. After reading that some had troubles bleeding the double rear brake, i tried a bleed screw on top of the insert. It works very well as the left hand brake is very strong with only one finger aplied. You can very easily brake slide with it. Did the extra...

Got my spotwelder today, did some quick tests to check if it at least is possible to weld a wire on the side of the battery cell. Got the best result with a tinned copper wire. I have ordered 0,5mm aluminium wire to make some further tests with, it should come in beginning next week.

I would like to buy one too.

Yes 360 18650 cells. And it is made for a quick change.

The conduction of aluminium in relation to copper is around 60%. So you could use a Ø0,3mm copper wire instead of a Ø0,5mm aluminium wire. And keep more or less the same safety. Going to try them both anyway, and some thicker copper wire. 1 fuse wire seems indeed sufficient to me. And 0,3 is...

It is possible with a tab: But maybe that the wire on the side is to critical. I will test it and post my findings. Are the original welds made with a ultrasonic weld?

Ok thanks for the information. I have an engineering company and do a lot of machine building and electric installations myself. I made small battery packs before. But not with a voltage like this. I am well aware of the dangers that come with dismounting the battery pack. But i appreciate you...