Slayer
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Lever activated Brake Light rig
For those with street-going bikes using the Alta LHRB kit that eliminated the brake pedal, you might want to consider this brake light rig for use on your bike.
Basically, it's an aftermarket brake light pull switch I found on Amazon (follow the link) that I tied to the brake lever and wired to the original brake light lead.
In addition to the switch, I was able to find the factory style 2.8 mm 2-pin connectors that both the bike and switch use (also on Amazon) and wired them together via a jumper I made from 18 gauge bell wire wrapped with heat shrink tubing. (If you work at it, you can back the brake light lead up through the frame to the point where it can be accessed just under the seat. doing this will allow for a much shorter jumper lead).
I then worked with a couple 1/2" insulated clips, an M6-1.00 x 15 Pan Phillips screw and locking nut to secure the switch to the master cylinder forming the straightest alignment possible. The switch supplied spring was then tied to the brake lever with a zip tie. (careful with the spring, anything more than a single bend or two and you will be looking for another spring). Once I found the sweet spot I covered the spring with a bit more of the tubing (unheated) to tidy things up.
One more mod I needed to perform was notching the factory brush guard, as it did interfere with the spring.
My hope is it will stand the test of time, and that perhaps other's may even have options for improving on the system.
For those with street-going bikes using the Alta LHRB kit that eliminated the brake pedal, you might want to consider this brake light rig for use on your bike.
Basically, it's an aftermarket brake light pull switch I found on Amazon (follow the link) that I tied to the brake lever and wired to the original brake light lead.
In addition to the switch, I was able to find the factory style 2.8 mm 2-pin connectors that both the bike and switch use (also on Amazon) and wired them together via a jumper I made from 18 gauge bell wire wrapped with heat shrink tubing. (If you work at it, you can back the brake light lead up through the frame to the point where it can be accessed just under the seat. doing this will allow for a much shorter jumper lead).
I then worked with a couple 1/2" insulated clips, an M6-1.00 x 15 Pan Phillips screw and locking nut to secure the switch to the master cylinder forming the straightest alignment possible. The switch supplied spring was then tied to the brake lever with a zip tie. (careful with the spring, anything more than a single bend or two and you will be looking for another spring). Once I found the sweet spot I covered the spring with a bit more of the tubing (unheated) to tidy things up.
One more mod I needed to perform was notching the factory brush guard, as it did interfere with the spring.
My hope is it will stand the test of time, and that perhaps other's may even have options for improving on the system.
