KTM 690 conversion


moose600

New member
Likes
2
Location
THOUSAND OAKS, USA
I am converting a 2010 KTM 690 Enduro R to 96v. I am deep into the mock-up stage. I have spun the rear tire with barbie-jeep batteries. I have a battery cavity buck shaped up and I need some battery design/build help. Mahalo

70742400575__D472313B-511E-4E81-96A4-F7D87789B7AB.jpeg

IMG_0776.jpeg

IMG_0991.jpeg

IMG_0990.jpeg

IMG_0989.jpeg

IMG_0988.jpeg

IMG_0987.jpeg

IMG_0983.jpeg

IMG_0984.jpeg

IMG_0985.jpeg

IMG_0986.jpeg
 

bearorso

Member
Likes
9
Location
EP Australia
You can't get the Countershaft Center closer to the Swingarm Pivot Center?

A 'rough' C to C nowadays is around the 70 / 60mm (or less) C to C on bikes with LTR. Your positioning looks Hugely longer.

Look to the original CC to SA distance and Height to have the rear suspension work as it is intended. The Original Distance And Height of the Center to Center is what the Suspension / Chassis was designed for.

I understand that the Diameter of so many Motors presents difficulties, but that distance shown was the sort of thing that created So Many Problems (thrown chains, dreadful effects on Suspension action, Rapid Swingarm protector wear and Swingarms sawn through by the chain etc) in the 70s during the suspension revolution.

Believe me, I was heavily involved with said "Suspension Revolution", and we largely learned the (at times, Very) hard way.

At the minimum, you'll have to try the sort of lash ups that were done in those time periods - springed / pivoting chain tensioners.

A Jackshaft is the sort of thing that can help with retaining an original CC to SA distance if you can't move the Motor closer to the SA pivot, but, they of course have their own set of problems.

I'm Not slagging you, just trying to help you.
 

moose600

New member
Likes
2
Location
THOUSAND OAKS, USA
You can't get the Countershaft Center closer to the Swingarm Pivot Center?

A 'rough' C to C nowadays is around the 70 / 60mm (or less) C to C on bikes with LTR. Your positioning looks Hugely longer.

Look to the original CC to SA distance and Height to have the rear suspension work as it is intended. The Original Distance And Height of the Center to Center is what the Suspension / Chassis was designed for.

I understand that the Diameter of so many Motors presents difficulties, but that distance shown was the sort of thing that created So Many Problems (thrown chains, dreadful effects on Suspension action, Rapid Swingarm protector wear and Swingarms sawn through by the chain etc) in the 70s during the suspension revolution.

Believe me, I was heavily involved with said "Suspension Revolution", and we largely learned the (at times, Very) hard way.

At the minimum, you'll have to try the sort of lash ups that were done in those time periods - springed / pivoting chain tensioners.

A Jackshaft is the sort of thing that can help with retaining an original CC to SA distance if you can't move the Motor closer to the SA pivot, but, they of course have their own set of problems.

I'm Not slagging you, just trying to help you.
Yup, that's a battle for another day.......focusing on batteries right now.
 

Similar threads

Top Bottom