I'm exhausted researching this myself as well. What I gather after searching the internet, looking through the racetech bible, talking to a few friends who know KYB sss very well and a few suspension shops is that everyone has a separate answer. But this is my approach as I am in the same boat. First thing is to be in the range of the spring so you know you're starting at the right height in the stroke. I weigh 175 without gear and 200-205 with gear and I was also told to go medium. The bike was unbearably stiff when new. Literally from just sitting in a hot garage for 10 days while I was on vacation I could tell the difference. I have 2 rides on the bike and it has softened an amazing amount. The first thing I did was to take the seat cover off and make a hundred holes in the foam. I was waiting for seat concepts to release theirs and as of now it is available online. Honestly that didnt make that much difference drilling the holes but it did help. My sag was at 38/104. Slightly below the 40-45 static but on the low end of the rider sag which is what I was told to do. I removed 20cc of fork fluid through the bleeder hole. I will test that tomorrow. I've heard this is only noticeable after the first 3-4" travel. I had originally reached out to Super Plush in SF and they wanted over $1250 for the forks and shocks. They also were really busy. I decided to just buy all the necessary tools and planning to tackle this myself. Really it's not a technically hard thing to do, the whole game is knowing how many of what shims to add/remove. One could spend a lifetime playing with this stuff. Here's what I have gathered, averaging out information from many sources. For what we ride, slow technical hard enduro, we should be fine starting with the removal of 50% of the compression face shims. I have no idea what the outcome will be and have never done this before. I can report back when I do. The main thing to check before yanking your shock apart is to see if you have someone local that will fill it back to 150 psi with nitrogen. I've heard you can use air from a high pressure bike pump but I want it done right. A friend said he went to the costco tire center and they were able to get it to 80psi and he filled the rest with air. Up to you. I have a connection that can do it properly but make sure you got that all planned in advance. Also, I have my comp clickers al the way out(+1 in just so it's not literally backed out to the last thread). I have my rebound in 6 clicks. That's measured from turned all the way out. Having your rebound clickers all the way out will make a pogo stick out of your bike. Not sure what other options there are as these are MX forks. The KYB is nice that it has a very useable range with the clickers. I felt like all my WP forks had a very small noticeable range in comparison. However I'd kill to have my KTM 300 XCW suspension back!
So to recap:
Tubliss-lower tire pressure.
seat foam. Guts and Seat concepts have soft foam inserts
remove 10-20cc fork oil.
comp clickers all the way out
rebound clickers in 5-6 from all the way backed out. Same for low/ten and high rebound on shock. Shock high reb has over 40 clicks! Maybe just more increments. I don't get this if someone can please explain.
make sure the spring is the right rate for you as a starting point. The Race tech calculator and site is a very valuable resource. I'd be more inclined to trust them over the Stark spreadsheet or specs for recommended spring rates.
get sag in range
remove 40-50% face shims on the comp stack fork and shock. maybe 1 mid face shim after crossover? I haven't seen what's inside there yet.
Last resort, put it back how it was and take it to a pro
