Jack hammer varg forks

O

Osika

Member
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13
Location
USA
I have about 5 hours on it...love it but I have a half mile track ..no big jumps..but lots of choppy areas and rocky parts. Riding fast on those areas is harsh. I tried clickers all the way out but I think that is maybe worse than 18/15
( top/bottom) I had.
Will they soften up more or re-valve in order?
Tires 14/13.5 psi front/ rear.

Thanks!
Tom
 
markhamr

markhamr

Well-known member
Likes
47
Location
blaxlands creek australia
I havnt revalved mine
and i am not in the USA
main problem is it struggles under its own weight
im sure jbi can help you
not sure what your dealers like
bikes jet fast stock if you can afford the time out for arm pump surgery
i run a harder spring rate but i usually do for my weight im 64
like to run at stock for 85kg rider usual basic factory setup for most bikes
it looks smooth in there vids and on other bikes wearing there stickers
answer for chop is keep it wide open
there is posts on suspension here but in the end band aids
but suspension work is expensive
I live in au so our dollars worth shit when it comes to any mods
i think they said jbi where coming out with a kit might be available fitted through your dealer
my dealer races one i think it has racetech in it
 
M

MVC

Member
Likes
15
Location
Utah
Square edges are brutal, I can even feel how shit they are riding the street hitting pot holes. I have tried

-Springs
-Compression all directions
-Rebound all directions

Fork need a revalve along with shock
 
M

Marshall G

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21
Location
Arizona
I just drained 10 CCs of oil out of each fork leg. I'm going to try and ride it in the next couple of days. I'll report back. I mean damn, these are the best KYB forks supposedly set up for off road. They should be compliant right out of the box.
 
M

Marshall G

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21
Location
Arizona
Marshall G said:
I just drained 10 CCs of oil out of each fork leg. I'm going to try and ride it in the next couple of days. I'll report back. I mean damn, these are the best KYB forks supposedly set up for off road. They should be compliant right out of the box.
Click to expand...
I drained 10 CCs of oil out of each fork leg and rode it. MUCH better. Then I drained another 5 CCs (so 15 total) and rode it today on single track, sand whoops, rocks, sand wash, ledgey uphill rock trail/wash and some huge rocky climbs. It was VERY good. Very happy with the forks. Shock is a bit stiff, but I haven't tinkered with the settings all that much. Try draining some oil out before spending a bunch of money on a revalve.
 
O

Osika

Member
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13
Location
USA
Sounds good. But also there is a LOT of testing and work by places like JBI or Enzo to get forks and shocks to perform optimally .
 
J

Johnny Depp

Well-known member
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144
Location
Austin TX
Osika said:
Sounds good. But also there is a LOT of testing and work by places like JBI or Enzo to get forks and shocks to perform optimally .
Click to expand...
JBI is on V4-5-6? They keep on working on it. A lot of tuners had a big learning curve. The difference between a Stark is like the difference between a 2t and a 4t. Not too much discussion on the shock. I took 100cc out of each fork and finally getting better and using all the travel, back off the clickers also, but still harsh enough to make my throttle hand go to sleep. In the planning stages for a major overhaul, Dal Saggio is what I'd like to do, but it won't be cheap.
Also temtped to check Lainer for a full forks kit rebuild, mixed with the Dal Saggio XR, or the MX Tech Lucky's for less expensive solutions.
 
J

Johnny Depp

Well-known member
Likes
144
Location
Austin TX
Osika said:
I'm getting forks done by JBI they also have been working on shocks quite a bit..will send that later.
Click to expand...
It will be interesting to see how it works for you. My only problem with JBI is he is very secretive about what he's doing. Other than a spring perch, he doesn't really have any proprietary parts. For some reason, I just don't think shim shuffling is the answer, but it should be the cheapest solution if it works. IMO CC forks have an inherent problem with the first 20% being plush due to stiction and the force required to begin movement, that is the part I'm curious to see what they can do, that initial crust which causes the hammering.
 
J

Johnny Depp

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Likes
144
Location
Austin TX
I’m going to make sure I exhaust all stock tuning options before I send out my suspension. I’m satisfied that the heavy springs are good for me. After starting with clickers suggested here I have been working towards comfort. Removing fork oil and backing off of compression and rebound front and rear. It keeps getting better, and now I am wondering if I am going the right direction without investing in Motoclick Ai for sensors and software?
I have steadily improved the fork full travel but still lack the last 1”. Roots and rocks are much less jackhammer and sitting in the same no longer makes my lower back and kidneys cry.
I cheated by using Twisted composite flex bars, which has helped my right hand not going to sleep as much during MX, but the problem persists in the trails, still not plush. Running 10 psi and happy with the stock tires, with the front wearing faster than the rear, which is unusual.
I have removed about 150cc from each fork side, about a shot glass each time. The travel is being used more without bottoming. IMG_4230.jpegIMG_4242.jpegIMG_4229.jpeg
 
Last edited:
M

Marshall G

Member
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21
Location
Arizona
Nice family pics, haha. You removed 150 CCs out of each fork leg?! I'm no suspension tech, but I read that the total capacity of each fork is like 325CCs. Motocross Action Magazine says to remove 10 CCs, the maybe up to 10 CCs more for a total of 20 CCs per fork leg. I removed 15 CCs and it made a nice difference, but I may remove another 5 CCs. You may want to call a suspension shop that works on KYBs and see what they say about all that.
 
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