Poll: Are you using the original Stark Varg Stand/Charger as intended?

I am not going to lift that massive weight onto any stand
I use a lift stand and plug the charger in beside the bike
I think most people would charge the bike this way

SilverSurfer said:

Went with this option posted here months ago and it wasan upgrade worth every penny

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i tired googleg this, with no luck for some reason. Link please?

Waynder said:

i tired googleg this, with no luck for some reason. Link please?

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Same here, idk what that case is called but I want one!

unweisz said:

Same here, idk what that case is called but I want one!

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Don't Google. Grok it!

The thread is in this subforum, two down from this one. Jeez!

I like the one where the guy just made a handle on the existing charger. It's not much bigger than those pelican case conversations and you still have the handy lid/flap to hide all the cables. Plus the aluminum body looks pretty cool. I'm going to experiment with that.

Marshall G said:

I like the one where the guy just made a handle on the existing charger. It's not much bigger than those pelican case conversations and you still have the handy lid/flap to hide all the cables. Plus the aluminum body looks pretty cool. I'm going to experiment with that.

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I think it's much heavier that way, but still a big improvement.

I am an old Alta guy. Trust me. I do not like dangling cables. I do not like heavy and angular aluminum boxes. The H-F 3800 case is the best. It is the smallest, very light, and has all the cables inside. Waterproof and dust-free when closed. Perfectly cooled when you run it fully open, which you should. If I find a better option, I will let you know.

Hey all! I wanted to share what I ended up coming up with... I found there weren't many options available to make the Stark charger more portable that also looked like it was done intentionally rather than an afterthought, so I made my own. I started with 3D printing a deck plate for an Apache 3800 case to test fitment, then had the parts laser-cut by SendCutSend out of 1/8" (3.2mm) 6061 T6 aluminum.

I've done a couple of batches so far - the first batch was 5 total (including one for me), and it went over well enough that I did a second batch of 11. I've mostly stuck to the Facebook groups to sell them, but if there's interest here, I may consider a third batch! I put these together as a kit, which includes the Apache 3800 case (easier for shipping), the deck plate, pre-installed TPU feet on the case itself, the wire tray bumper, a charge cable guide (attaches to one of the charger standoffs), the cubby, cubby lid, and mounting hardware (pre-installed as well). Total cost for the last batch was $160 per kit, shipped to the lower-48 in the US, and is probably where I would land for any future batches as well.

You would need to pull your original charger out of the bike stand, just for record - there is no charger or cables included (this should be obvious, but I wanted to clarify).

Yes, bought this Apache case at Harbor Freight ($39) Bolted it down with original hardware....
I switch from 110v to 220v often so the ease of access to the quick-connect (bayonet style connectors) makes it easy.

I threw the original stand directly into the trash. That thing was way too heavy. This option is way better.

I have a similar size case that is a bit shallower.
Apache case is ≈156 mm.
My case is 120mm.
Would you say that's enough height to fit the charger?

REMOTE CHARGE CONTROL:
Extracted the charger from the stand and wallmounted it at the port.
installed a SHELLY PRO 1 pm device and scripted a programm.

WHY:
i keep the VARG at about 50% SOC to conserve the battery. (because i'm a nerd %-)
when i'm in the job and get the feeling to ride just afterwards - i wand it charged when i come home.
or sometimes i have a plan - the bike should be charged at... any day and time.

SOLUTION:
SHELLY hardware offer the ability to control them over the SHELLY- app on a mobilephone.
The device itself is programmable to varios functions.
it offers an relay to switch 16 amps and some inputs for buttons.

FUNCTION:
simply plug the charger into the bike and choose the SOC- percentage and chargingpower on the arkenstone.
START / STOP via button or calendar/time function on the phone from everywhere.
START / STOP via local button on the charger.
AUTO SWITCH OFF the charger after 8 hours.
AUTO SWITCH OFF the charger when the powerconsumption is less then 10watts - when the battery is full. (Idle power is about 6 watts)
FEEDBACK of relay- state, powerconsumption, energy summary on the phone

Bernardo

Could you please say how you connected that Shelly switch to the charger?
I assume it could be installed directly into existing fuse box, right?

Would one of those 'smart' plugs be safe to use?

yep your a nerd
But thanks options are great

OpaTsupa said:

Could you please say how you connected that Shelly switch to the charger?
I assume it could be installed directly into existing fuse box, right?

Would one of those 'smart' plugs be safe to use?

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Hola!

The SHELLY PRO 1 PM offers one normaly open contact, like a simple light switch does.
interrupt one wire of your linevoltage charger cable. preferrably the brown one, phase or L.
and connect the contact in between.
as shown in the schematic, instead of the lightbulb, the charger is inserted.
Dont forget earthing / grounding stuff.

The DC Cable, from the charger to the STARK, has to be plugged in adn stays untouched.
In the moment you supply the charger the charging process starts.

Please, if you dont feel comfortable with electric stuff.
You know the risks... let a pro help you.

Smartplug: (Powervalues refer to the 230VAC linevoltage)
I took a look at them. Basically you can use one.
But...
* They can switch only 12 Amps. (2500W). The PRO 1 PM switches 16 Amps (3.3kW)
The max charging power has to be lower than 2,5kW.
* They cannot be scripted, but the basic functions makes your project succeed. like remote ON/OFF or calendar/time functions.





Greez

Bernardo