2019 Alta MXR down

[Alisescu]

Hey guys, I have a 2019 mxr 1000 miles and recently started to act up. The first time I had to push the bike back to the truck, the bike did not want to restart, I got home and found out about tapping on the upper part of the battery and the bike was fine. after that, on the first full charge the engine yellow lite came on and the code 36 the bike run fine and charges so I rode it for a few hundred more miles until the bike would not start anymore, I can hear the click but no green light and now I am getting a message something about negative fail and is asking to recycle the key to restart, also the code 36 and service required
I am in Orlando Florida but I am willing to ship the battery (if that is the problem) Please let me know if anyone here could fix my Alta and I am not asking for free work I will pay for the service, please let me know?
Best regards Alisescu

 

[Dirt-E]

I had a similar issue with my EXR. It slowly fell off until it wouldn't stay on for more than a few seconds. The result ended up being corrosion on the terminals of the 0 module (the one on the bottom) which eventually killed about 42 of the individual cells. Total module voltage is down to around 40-50V range.

I don't have a way to reattach the bond wires for the cells, otherwise I would totally knock the dead ones out and replace them. A friend of mine found a replacement module and I got it installed yesterday. Other than a huge cell voltage difference, it at least turns on now and I'll have to balance it out. After that, clear codes and see if it will get rolling.

I know that didn't help you much, but it's a good place to start looking. If you don't have the multitool, you'll likely need to start with that so you can see what's going on with the cells and BMS.

 

[Dirt-E]

Here are some pictures to go along with it. If you need help opening up the battery module, let me know. I did a little video on how to get the bottom cover off without destroying it.

 

[Rashid510]

So...Corrosion on Module 0. Module 0 has been the constant culprit failure so far in the field of Module fails....

 

[Dirt-E]

I'm guessing it's from the vent at the bottom of the pack. None of the other modules seem to be problematic and it's clean as a whistle on the inside. That or it's the tar-like seal they used for the bottom cover. I couldn't find any other routes for water or moisture to get in.

 

[Rashid510]

I'm guessing it's from the vent at the bottom of the pack. None of the other modules seem to be problematic and it's clean as a whistle on the inside. That or it's the tar-like seal they used for the bottom cover. I couldn't find any other routes for water or moisture to get in.

Thats a one way vent if I recall for any thermal events. That helps with any moisture. The tar-like seal is butyl. My only concern is some how the one-way vent has failed.

 

[Alisescu]

I had a similar issue with my EXR. It slowly fell off until it wouldn't stay on for more than a few seconds. The result ended up being corrosion on the terminals of the 0 module (the one on the bottom) which eventually killed about 42 of the individual cells. Total module voltage is down to around 40-50V range.

I don't have a way to reattach the bond wires for the cells, otherwise I would totally knock the dead ones out and replace them. A friend of mine found a replacement module and I got it installed yesterday. Other than a huge cell voltage difference, it at least turns on now and I'll have to balance it out. After that, clear codes and see if it will get rolling.

I know that didn't help you much, but it's a good place to start looking. If you don't have the multitool, you'll likely need to start with that so you can see what's going on with the cells and BMS.

I appreciate the tips very much, I will have to try to get the battery open up myself, thank you so much.

 

[Alisescu]

I had a similar issue with my EXR. It slowly fell off until it wouldn't stay on for more than a few seconds. The result ended up being corrosion on the terminals of the 0 module (the one on the bottom) which eventually killed about 42 of the individual cells. Total module voltage is down to around 40-50V range.

I don't have a way to reattach the bond wires for the cells, otherwise I would totally knock the dead ones out and replace them. A friend of mine found a replacement module and I got it installed yesterday. Other than a huge cell voltage difference, it at least turns on now and I'll have to balance it out. After that, clear codes and see if it will get rolling.

I know that didn't help you much, but it's a good place to start looking. If you don't have the multitool, you'll likely need to start with that so you can see what's going on with the cells and BMS.

it makes so much sense I am in Orlando Florida where is very humid

 

[Alisescu]

Here are some pictures to go along with it. If you need help opening up the battery module, let me know. I did a little video on how to get the bottom cover off without destroying it.

 

[Alisescu]

please send me the video. Thanks in advance

 

[Dirt-E]

This one shows how to get the bottom cover off once you've got the outer screws removed:

This one is the orange cover over the cells:

Keep in mind, these have basically zero production value and it was the first time I got the pack open. Needless to say I missed a few pointers and details, but hopefully it will be helpful

 

[Trialsman]

This is just a wild thought and probably has no merit. But. My brother was a Paleontologist in a museum and I wondered if a device like an air dent (like a mini-sandblaster or sodablaster used in preparing dinosaur specimens) would aid in removing corrosion? Further, if the corrosion is removed, some protective agent like Deoxit sprayed on, and the water entry point resolved, would that potentially bring the cells back to a usable condition where they could be balanced?

 

[Dirt-E]

I've thought of that as well, actually.

Problem being is once the corrosion separates the bond wires, it's basically hosed. They have very tiny micro welds that hold them on and they're actually made to break in case of emergency, so they're basically sacrificial from the get-go. Combine that with the part that it takes a pretty special machine to attach them properly and there goes much of any chance to rebuild the packs at home. (Or at least that's the way it seems from reading through the forums)

I think I would be willing to give it a try though. I solder all kinds of crazy stuff for a living and most of it really just comes down to being familiar with what you're working on and then spending the time to learn.

 

[Dirt-E]

I need to do some level charging, but at least my bike is possibly going to be usable again soon.