Do you switch maps while riding? I do.

[Philip]

Do you know that some of the fastest pros often ride around the track in taller gears in order to be smooth and have the most traction? What is the equivalent of this on an electric bike?

The equivalent is riding in a map with low throttle sensitivity. Or in a low-power map in the current Stark Varg firmware, since throttle maps are not independently adjustable.

We all found out pretty quickly that 80hp is not the fastest setting around the MX track. A power setting that will let you stay pinned in a few sections is definitely faster.

But what if the track has one or several long straights or steep uphills where you can pass everyone if you uncork 60 or 80hp??

The Glen Helen's vet track is pretty smooth and flowy, with one exception of a short and steep uphill that turns into a tabletop and then a downhill jump... that is if you can jump and clear it. This Tuesday, I was finally able to clear it smoothly and very easily. And what did it take? It did not have to carry a crazy momentum around the tight, dusty, and off-camber right-hand turn before the uphill. I just merely selected the 55hp map right before this turn. Then I accelerated uphill, jumped, and switched back to the 45 or 40hp map that worked great for the rest of the track.

You have to shift maps to be fast!!! Just like you have to shift gears on a gas bike, you have to shift maps on an electric bike to best fit the individual sections of the track. This is the fastest and smoothest way around the track. I do not think this will ever change no matter how much programming access Stark will give us to our torque/throttle/regen/traction maps.

Even in F1, drivers often fiddle with knobs and switches on their steering wheel adjusting their car several times around each lap.

What do you think?

 

[fsfs]

Do you know that some of the fastest pros often ride around the track in taller gears in order to be smooth and have the most traction? What is the equivalent of this on an electric bike?

The equivalent is riding in a map with low throttle sensitivity. Or in a low-power map in the current Stark Varg firmware, since throttle maps are not independently adjustable.

We all found out pretty quickly that 80hp is not the fastest setting around the MX track. A power setting that will let you stay pinned in a few sections is definitely faster.

But what if the track has one or several long straights or steep uphills where you can pass everyone if you uncork 60 or 80hp??

The Glen Helen's vet track is pretty smooth and flowy, with one exception of a short and steep uphill that turns into a tabletop and then a downhill jump... that is if you can jump and clear it. This Tuesday, I was finally able to clear it smoothly and very easily. And what did it take? It did not have to carry a crazy momentum around the tight, dusty, and off-camber right-hand turn before the uphill. I just merely selected the 55hp map right before this turn. Then I accelerated uphill, jumped, and switched back to the 45 or 40hp map that works great for the rest of the track.

You have to shift maps to be fast!!! Just like you have to shift the gearbox on a gas bike, you have to shift maps on an electric bike to best fit the individual sections of the track. This is the fastest and smoothest way around the track. I do not think this will ever change no matter how much programming access Stark will give us to our torque/throttle/regen/traction maps.

Even in F1, drivers often fiddle with knobs and switches on their steering wheel adjusting their car several times around each lap.

What do you think?

That is right. No single setting is right for every situation or section of the track.

 

[Philip]

To enduro riders: Turn on the Alpha mode to wheelie over that log!

 

[fsfs]

To enduro riders: Turn on the Alpha mode to wheelie over that log! View attachment 11943

That bike can deliver enough instantaneous torque to do a pretty damn good job of simulating a clutch. Too bad they don't offer that though.

 

[skuikka]

Alot. I ride mainly hard enduro. Map 1 is for long descents, 50hp and full regen. 2 and 3 are my normal go to's a bit depending on the mood 50 and 55 hp. 4 is 60 and 5 is 70. These i use to compensate for the lack of clutch. Number 5 five gets quite some use on big steps and such when I really need to be able to propell the bike upwards.
No regen except for the downhills, I'd like the bike to roll even better when I close the throttle.

 

[AgileMike]

I only switch maps from start to riding track. I used to use 60HP for starts and race in 48 HP. Then everyone around me realized 60HP isn't even fair when starting against 450s. I now start in 48 HP and race in 48 HP. I feel 48 HP is very fair off gate against 450s. I can holeshot with a good jump, I can't without a good jump. With 60 HP I could watch everyone leave and still holeshot.

 

[Chaconne]

That bike can deliver enough instantaneous torque to do a pretty damn good job of simulating a clutch. Too bad they don't offer that though.

IMHO I think they should continue to progress with even better throttle control. A clutch means some of your strength and control has to be removed from the bars to modulate power & etc. They have brought the tech this far, fly-by-wire works effectively for dirtbikes, I am simply beyond impressed with how good it is.

 

[Chaconne]

Alot. I ride mainly hard enduro. Map 1 is for long descents, 50hp and full regen. 2 and 3 are my normal go to's a bit depending on the mood 50 and 55 hp. 4 is 60 and 5 is 70. These i use to compensate for the lack of clutch. Number 5 five gets quite some use on big steps and such when I really need to be able to propell the bike upwards.
No regen except for the downhills, I'd like the bike to roll even better when I close the throttle.

I'd like the bike to roll even better when I push it (like neutral). I haven't been stranded on a track because I ride enduro but pushing a Stark out of the woods after a crash or break down is awful. And I can't imagine it makes it any easier if you are on the other side of the track except that you can probably see your truck/trailer.

Carrying a chainbreaker is not something I have done in the past but I do now. BTW if you screw up the power control switch in a crash you can end up pushing --and I suppose that can happen at a track or in the woods just the same.