LHRB install difficulty?

Border Dave

Member
Likes
8
Location
Bellingham, Washington
It's weird, though, that Stark sends the components already assembled if they have to be taken apart again to then change the fluid and replace the copper/aluminum washers. I understand that Stark makes such sub-assemblies for the production line in the factory, where they can be installed pretty easily before installing the powertrain. I don't understand why Stark would ever sell pre-assembled kits instead of full kits to be assembled for later upgrades, if they can't be used that way. Maybe it is possible to just slide the master cylinder behind the frame if one removes the lever. I'd be curious to know what service support would say about this.
Mine came with my bike unassembled in a box with all needed parts. I bought my bike from a dealer.
 

rtf

Member
Likes
17
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
It's weird, though, that Stark sends the components already assembled if they have to be taken apart again to then change the fluid and replace the copper/aluminum washers. I understand that Stark makes such sub-assemblies for the production line in the factory, where they can be installed pretty easily before installing the powertrain. I don't understand why Stark would ever sell pre-assembled kits instead of full kits to be assembled for later upgrades, if they can't be used that way. Maybe it is possible to just slide the master cylinder behind the frame if one removes the lever. I'd be curious to know what service support would say about this.


I tried finding a way to not dissemble it and I don’t think it’s possible without removing the battery. Even then, I couldn’t get it to fit between the forks to route behind the headlight. I also just reused the copper washers and snugged them up.

My guess is Stark installs these while the frame is open and sources from Brembo fully assembled and just shipped them this way.

Haven’t dug into it to much, but it looks like it’s going to be a pain to run that wire for the brake light through the bars.
 

FreddyFugazi

Member
Likes
21
Location
BVT
I'm really not sure why they provided a redundant master cylinder instead of the brake light cable, but I'm sure you can't route it as is. I had a hard enough time getting just the brake line routed. I ordered mine with the bike and it came with the cable and without the extra master cylinder.

As for routing the wire, after I pinched the first one I just did it the ol fashion way with zipties haha. The issue I had was the whole is under where the controls clamp to the bars so you need to route it through a tiny notch in the back of that housing, but you also have to loosen it to fit the wire. I thought I had it set right but when I tightened the controls back down the wire pinched.
 

Theo

Well-known member
Likes
261
Location
Italy
I'm really not sure why they provided a redundant master cylinder instead of the brake light cable, but I'm sure you can't route it as is. I had a hard enough time getting just the brake line routed. I ordered mine with the bike and it came with the cable and without the extra master cylinder.

As for routing the wire, after I pinched the first one I just did it the ol fashion way with zipties haha. The issue I had was the whole is under where the controls clamp to the bars so you need to route it through a tiny notch in the back of that housing, but you also have to loosen it to fit the wire. I thought I had it set right but when I tightened the controls back down the wire pinched.
Isn't the caliper the redundant part? Since its part number is the same for both hand and foot brake, if you have the foot brake you can reuse it.

Well, at this point I would say that if someone wants to switch to hand brake, then it's cheaper and better to just buy the master cylinder, the hose and that electric wire for the lights instead of the complete assembly.
 

Chaconne

Well-known member
Likes
251
Location
Massachusetts
It's weird, though, that Stark sends the components already assembled if they have to be taken apart again to then change the fluid and replace the copper/aluminum washers. I understand that Stark makes such sub-assemblies for the production line in the factory, where they can be installed pretty easily before installing the powertrain. I don't understand why Stark would ever sell pre-assembled kits instead of full kits to be assembled for later upgrades, if they can't be used that way. Maybe it is possible to just slide the master cylinder behind the frame if one removes the lever. I'd be curious to know what service support would say about this.
They were probably out of replacement parts and took a production one off the line so the customer didn't have to wait.
 

rtf

Member
Likes
17
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
They were probably out of replacement parts and took a production one off the line so the customer didn't have to wait.
My setup came from the Texas location to PA in only 2/3 days so I doubt it in my case. Wasn’t a big deal to take mine apart, it’s the only way to do it correctly that I could see.

The pads aren’t bedded yet buts definitely a 2 finger pull to lock up the rear. Hoping jt gets better.
 

pete12

New member
Likes
1
Location
USA
I got the dual kit from MotoZ. No instructions, but watched a similar video and got the gist of it. Reverse bled and then locked lever to bars. Released couple hours later and had great feel to it. Routing the wire was easy. Just stripped out a ground from some romex to use as a snake to guide it through. The most time consuming was just removing plastic and cf to route brake line neatly. Not difficult, just time consuming.
 
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