Rear suspension play

[Chaconne]

Ok so first of all, every fastener on my gen 2 MX 1.0 has regular left handed threads to remove all linkage bolts and the swing arm shaft/bolt . All bearings still have original grease and look ok! I’m not sure why some folks on here have opposing threads for one of fasteners as I read above and therefore was expecting to find. Mine definitely has all regular (left to loosen) threads! One captive nut to hold located on the right side swing arm inside/under the blue cap. Very easy to remove all components to grease swing arm and linkage.

Still don’t understand the play when lifting up the tire?? Maybe as mentioned above, a cumulative effect of all the joints but still noticeable compared to my new 5 hr EX. Anyhow I will clean re grease and re assemble as is for now. Keep watch.


But….
Look what I discovered. See pics of the black plastic lower mud guard that passes by the swing arm and how it’s been rubbing the swing arm when covered with mud and sand. The tolerances are so tight and the thing is mounted properly. It’s not like the plastics are on wrong or anything like that everything is aligned.
The abrasive sand/mud mix can be brutal on aluminum. What do you guys think I should do? It’s already notched into the swing arm. I’m thinking for now JB weld to build it back and then see what I can do
to space it further away. This sucks this.!!

My PDS 2021 ktm has a aftermarket roller to adress this exact problem. Do any of you have wear trough your swing arm like this. Have you checked??

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Yes this is the same problem as the KTM my 300 had the same kind of wear. I used the hillbilly fix and used duct tape.

When I regreased my Stark suspension this winter I checked the SA for wear and there was none on my 2024 MX-1. BTW did you regrease your suspension on your MX-1 or did you stick with the original? All the bearings on my bike has some light grease but not what I would consider adequate after a season of use in the conditions I ride.

 

[Chaconne]

Ok I now understand what you’re saying!!! So sorry. Thank you!

I am waiting on parts so plenty of time to further examine that nut. I did turn it to the right before backing the bolt out when removing the rocker so that’s why it just seemed to be all LH threaded. Makes perfect sense though and I appreciate your persistence in letting me know this.

Oh for others having to do this, I used an internal bearing puller kit. I use it mostly for wheel bearings but it works perfectly for these caged needle bearings also. No drama. I understand however from reading that the pull arm bearings are worse because of the step. Lucky I didn’t need to change those.

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Yes there was a similar post about the nightmare of removing the pull arm bearings somewhere around here...

 

[HITNRUN]

Yes this is the same problem as the KTM my 300 had the same kind of wear. I used the hillbilly fix and used duct tape.

When I regreased my Stark suspension this winter I checked the SA for wear and there was none on my 2024 MX-1. BTW did you regrease your suspension on your MX-1 or did you stick with the original? All the bearings on my bike has some light grease but not what I would consider adequate after a season of use in the conditions I ride.

So first, I used J-B weld to fill the wear groves and built up wear pads in the 3 rub spots to avoid any further cutting into the SA. Obviously I will be watching this on both bikes way more closely! I also smoothed out the outer edges of the black plastic fender extension because they had sharp edges that clearly created the deepest groves. I then did a quick touch up paint with a silver hammered type. It’s hidden behind the black plastic anyways so only I will know it’s there. Still a shade tree job for a Stark but oh well. One pic shows sharp problem causing edge (before) the other is (after) rounding off edges.

As for the re-greasing. I cleaned and re- packed all including the swing arm. All however were fine except the one that was completely shot and will be all new once the bearings, seals and bushing arrive. So for my bike it appears Stark greased them well except maybe the one that failed. This is at 75 hrs first time checking due to the clunk. I plan to check at 50hrs going forward now that I see it’s an easy job.

Bike is stuck on the stand for now waiting for parts.