I'm going to remove the front sprocket to replace it and I'm afraid it won't be a dull job like it could seem.
The front sprockets I have dealt with so far either had a nut and a locking washer with tabs or a circlip.
Apparently, the Varg has a KTM style bolt with threadlocker and I've read threads on other forums in which people asked for help after having snapped the bolt [edit: I mean with KTMs, no Starks so far] .I've read that the Varg bolt is stubborn, too.
In the official Stark powerunit replacement video, they say that, if the nut feels too tight during removal, a heat gun should be used.
Now, according to Henkel's site, the 250°C/550°F required for high strength red Loctite sound too dangerous for both the oil seal and the countershaft sprocket side o-ring, P/N STD-OR-0005, that I haven't understood where is located. I guess it should have been wiser to order both the seal and the oring together with the sprocket, just in case. I also think that cooling down the seal with water or air while heating the bolt wouldn't be effective because I still can't cool down the lip of the seal that contacts the countershaft.
Let's not forget that there are permanents magnet in the motor that surely dislike a lot of heat.
So, for those of you who have already removed it, have you noticed the color of the threadlocker? I've read that the temperature to remove the medium stength one is lower.
When periodically checking the torque, I noticed that it's pretty hard to prevent the rear wheel from rotating with my left hand rear brake and I'm afraid that I could damage something if I use crawl mode or reverse mode. I'll try and put some object in front of the rear wheel while applying weight to the footpes, so that the object will get wedged, hopefully preventing the wheel from spinning.
The front sprockets I have dealt with so far either had a nut and a locking washer with tabs or a circlip.
Apparently, the Varg has a KTM style bolt with threadlocker and I've read threads on other forums in which people asked for help after having snapped the bolt [edit: I mean with KTMs, no Starks so far] .I've read that the Varg bolt is stubborn, too.
In the official Stark powerunit replacement video, they say that, if the nut feels too tight during removal, a heat gun should be used.
Now, according to Henkel's site, the 250°C/550°F required for high strength red Loctite sound too dangerous for both the oil seal and the countershaft sprocket side o-ring, P/N STD-OR-0005, that I haven't understood where is located. I guess it should have been wiser to order both the seal and the oring together with the sprocket, just in case. I also think that cooling down the seal with water or air while heating the bolt wouldn't be effective because I still can't cool down the lip of the seal that contacts the countershaft.
Let's not forget that there are permanents magnet in the motor that surely dislike a lot of heat.
So, for those of you who have already removed it, have you noticed the color of the threadlocker? I've read that the temperature to remove the medium stength one is lower.
When periodically checking the torque, I noticed that it's pretty hard to prevent the rear wheel from rotating with my left hand rear brake and I'm afraid that I could damage something if I use crawl mode or reverse mode. I'll try and put some object in front of the rear wheel while applying weight to the footpes, so that the object will get wedged, hopefully preventing the wheel from spinning.
