Owner's Review Review after 500 miles on my MXR


Philip

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If you, off-road guys, haven't tried the Tube Saddle setup, you really should. You can run it as low as the Tubliss, both front and rear, but you are not risking dinging up the rims. The thick foam protests the rims much better than the 100psi skinny bicycle tube.

On a second though, I have a 21/19" Tubliss set somewhere in the basement for sale. PM me if you want it. *Sold*
 

ElectroBraap

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Great review. Thanks!
Perhaps playing with the rear suspension setup would help with the rear wheel spin issue over small bumps.

Absolutely. That and riding the alta well requires that you change the way you ride all together. I find it to be "quirky"... As Yoda would say "you must unlearn what you have learned ". 😂😂😂 I do agree this bike is very tail happy...very.
 

ElectroBraap

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I mostly ride map 2 but when I've used 3 or 4 I didn't notice much difference in top speed but I could try again. On the same stretch where I max out at 50mph on the Alta I can hit 64mph on my Beta 300.

Steve
Interesting. 🤔 I was thinking about the wheel spin comments you made. I ride in map 1 a lot through tight stuff and have noticed that I don't have enough rapid wheel speed to pitch the front up over kickers. It would appear to me there is some sort of limiter already on place. I need to be in map 2 for jumps, map 1 won't cut it. Man I really hope we can customize our maps one day.


As for how some bikes seem to act different than others...My bike needs an update and I've put it off a bunch. I wish Alta would tell us more specifics about the changes to each firmware update. Good or bad.
 

mlbco

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Sunnyvale, CA
Testing a new final drive gear ratio on the Alta and an 18" rear wheel with a 110/100/18 tire:


The taller gearing helped with wheel spin and engine braking but it cut down on the acceleration. I've changed it back to a slightly taller gearing (7% instead of 19% taller.) I discovered that Alta put the speedometer sensor on the motor (!) so that all speed and distance readings are wrong if you change the final drive ratio or spin the rear wheel! My friend measured 22.4 miles for our ride and the Alta computer said 18 miles! I ordered a Trail Tech computer with a front wheel sensor to fix this.

Steve
 

Philip

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Cool video! I like this view from a bike mounted camera. The lower camera height makes the speed appear a little faster than the rider sees it, and the 60-degree lean angles look like from a Moto GP video!
 

mlbco

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I'm using a Fly 360 4K camera on a homemade mount. The mount is taped to the fender and number plate with duct tape and has never come loose.

Thanks,

Steve

Camera Mount.jpg
 

mlbco

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The microphone in this camera is not very good. If you listen carefully you will hear it, but the sound recording quality sucks on the Fly 360 4K.

Steve
 

metallic88

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utah
Interesting. 🤔 I was thinking about the wheel spin comments you made. I ride in map 1 a lot through tight stuff and have noticed that I don't have enough rapid wheel speed to pitch the front up over kickers. It would appear to me there is some sort of limiter already on place. I need to be in map 2 for jumps, map 1 won't cut it. Man I really hope we can customize our maps one day.


As for how some bikes seem to act different than others...My bike needs an update and I've put it off a bunch. I wish Alta would tell us more specifics about the changes to each firmware update. Good or bad.


I cant say on the mxr, but on my mx the suspesion was horribly setup when i first got on it its was stinkbuging and the rear tire would always spin it was horrible, after setting the rear sag to over 104mm and sliding the forks down its better, but im still waiting for my new harder springs to see if that fixes it. I miss my pro circuit suspension on my kx250f. and i hope we can customize the maps one day also i want more regen in map 3 and 4
 

mlbco

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I've made more mod's and will be doing another review soon. The short list is:
1) 18" rear wheel with high profile tire (Dunlop MX52 Geomax 110/100x18)
2) 12/14 gearing
3) O-ring Chain
4)Trail Tech Endurance 2 ride computer installed to get correct mileage (see my other thread on Alta's motor sensor for mileage and speed)

I've been testing each of these the last few weeks and each has helped make the bike ride better. The 18" wheel with high profile tire improves traction on hard terrain with harsh bumps. The new gearing reduces wheelspin a bit and improves top speed. The ride computer is necessary because the motor sensor gives incorrect speed and mileage when the gearing or tire size is changed and is also in error if there's a lot of wheel spin.

All that remains is my kickstand which is on order.

SteveChain and Sprocket.jpgEndurance Computer.jpg
 

ablock

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I've made more mod's and will be doing another review soon. The short list is:
1) 18" rear wheel with high profile tire (Dunlop MX52 Geomax 110/100x18)
2) 12/14 gearing
3) O-ring Chain
4)Trail Tech Endurance 2 ride computer installed to get correct mileage (see my other thread on Alta's motor sensor for mileage and speed)

Which O-ring chain did you choose?
 

mlbco

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Which O-ring chain did you choose?

I purchased this one and then took out some links to get the correct length:
Pro Taper 520 XRC Chain | MotoSport
*Edited for correct O-ring chain, original link was incorrect!*

I noticed it was quieter than the stock chain when I took it up to 60 mph on the street. I couldn't tell any loss of power, I'll do an updated range test tomorrow.

Steve
 

Philip

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I have been buying Primary Drive chains from RMATVMC. They are well-priced X-ring chains. Very quiet and so far have lasted very well.

The stock Alta's chain is junky, starts stretching after just 2-3 hours of riding and never stops. I replaced mine before it stretches too long and starts eating sprockets. Now it is even more quiet and pleasant to push the bike around the garage or in/out of the van.
 

Philip

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The MX/MXR/EXR chains are 116-link chains and 12/53 sprockets.

I think the EX also uses 116 links, even though it uses a 13-tooth front sprocket.

You can also run 118-link chains with the stock sprockets. This will move the rear wheel 5/8" back. I'd also recommend a 118-link chain if you are going to run a 14-tooth front sprocket. Cutting a chain shorter is easy, if you have a grinder or a chain breaker, but adding a link to the chain will require a second chain lock and another link.

I run a 114-link chain on my MX with 12/45 sprockets, but I could have also run a 112-link chain. A longer chain is my preference because it allows me to run a wider and taller rear tire without it rubbing against the fender all the time.

The SM is using a shorter chain because of the smaller wheels, a taller gearing, and a smaller rear sprocket.
 

mlbco

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I've done two rides with the Renthal O-ring chain and noticed no adverse affect on range or power delivery. Like Phillip says, the bike is noticeably quieter and the chain isn't flimsy like the stock chain. I like it!

Steve
 

Philip

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The non-O-ring chains are best left to road racers. For dirt, I do not think a non-O-ring chain offers any reduction in friction after it gets packed with sand.
 

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