Roll your handlebars forward!


Philip

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If you think the stock Stark handlebars have a weird bend, or should be moved forward, then try rolling them forward.

I parked my Altas next to the Stark, and it struck me that the stock Stark handlebar ends were pointing down and were swept too far back. But this weird bend becomes normal if you do not align the handlebar parallel to the fork leg but install it more vertically by rolling it forward. I have a pair of stock KTM handlebars, and I verified this theory by holding these handlebars right next to the Stark handlebar at different angles. These bars should be rolled forward!

Take the phone out and loosen the four T45 torx bolts underneath it. I found a normal-looking handlebar position when it is rolled forward to align the +1 mark on the handlebar with the center mark on the handlebar clamps.

I haven't ridden the bike yet, it is too hot in Arizona, but maybe I will try in a few days.

It takes less than a minute to try, it is simpler than on a gas bike. Let me know how you like it.
 

NorCal_Hoss

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Norcal foothills
I swapped the stock bars this morning for 994 high bar, the notches on the bar are hidden from the phone mount and that circle piece of plastic, I had to loosen the bolts and look under the clamp to see where I was with the lines but still a weird design. I rode it around a bit I keep thinking its off a mm or 2. I guess I could notch the bars next time I pull them off.
 

AL_V

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Canton, Ohio
If you think the stock Stark handlebars have a weird bend, or should be moved forward, then try rolling them forward.

I parked my Altas next to the Stark, and it struck me that the stock Stark handlebar ends are pointing down and are swept too far back. But this weird bend becomes normal if you do not align the handlebar parallel to the fork leg but install it more vertically by rolling it forward. I have a pair of stock KTM handlebars, and I verified this theory by holding these handlebars right next to the Stark handlebar at different angles. These bars should be rolled forward!

Take the phone out and loosen the four T45 torx bolts underneath it. I found a normal-looking handlebar position when it is rolled forward to align the +1 mark on the handlebar with the center mark on the handlebar clamps.

I haven't ridden the bike yet, it is too hot in Arizona, but maybe I will try in a few days.

It takes less than a minute to try, it is simpler than on a gas bike. Let me know how you like it.
I finally got around to checking this since my Varg felt fine since I set it up, and I found that I already had my bars at +1.5, works for me!
 

dustinhorton

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SLC, UT
Wish I’d read this before ordering new bars, but I did before installing them. Huge improvement.

Think I’m about +1.25, and no longer feel the desire to swap them—thanks for the tip.
 

User2123

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A quick note that I just purchased some Protaper Windham bars since the docking station cord has no slack to add risers. The bars are perfect except for one flaw. They dont F-ing work! The Stark specs on the control distance says they are 150mm and that is very wrong. They are more like 220mm. The main issue with all the after market bars is that damn electric throttle tube wont allow the levers to clear the body. And as we all know the body of the throttle tube is round so no adjustment is even possible. Arg! I was pulling my hair out last night getting the bike ready for a ride only to have to glue the grips and all the crap back to stock. So hopefully this saves you some time and money. My next step was to order the 14mm risers and try those as a compromise. I think Stark has these bars custom made for the Varg primarily due to the throttle issue.

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Philip

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A quick note that I just purchased some Protaper Windham bars since the docking station cord has no slack to add risers. The bars are perfect except for one flaw. They dont F-ing work! The Stark specs on the control distance says they are 150mm and that is very wrong. They are more like 220mm. The main issue with all the after market bars is that damn electric throttle tube wont allow the levers to clear the body. And as we all know the body of the throttle tube is round so no adjustment is even possible. Arg! I was pulling my hair out last night getting the bike ready for a ride only to have to glue the grips and all the crap back to stock. So hopefully this saves you some time and money. My next step was to order the 14mm risers and try those as a compromise. I think Stark has these bars custom made for the Varg primarily due to the throttle issue.

View attachment 12216

View attachment 12217

This is off-topic, but while we are at it...
1) Rotate the throttle so that the cable is at the bottom. The electric cables do not have to look like they are mechanical throttle cables, that is just weird. Keep all of these screws pointing down. If you crash, the cable will stay out of harm's way too.
2) You can trim the Stark throttle tube. It is at last 5-10 mm too long. The gap between the grip and the throttle body should be much smaller to keep the dirt out.
3) These are some really tall bars. This is probably why they have no room for controls. I have never seen bars like this, the levers are way too close to the ends of the bars! If you want the bars to be taller, just buy bar riser inserts.
 
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User2123

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I totally agree and have rotated the throttle forward to make the wire below the line of the bark busters. I also did trim a tiny amount off the tube end, mainly so there was no risk of interference with the bark busters where it goes inside the bar ends. I am 6'3" and am used to riding with slightly higher setups. I do feel the stock was a lot more comfortable than my stock XCW. I only saw 30mm risers but I'm seeing now they have a 14mm which is ordered. But it's good to know most aftermarket bars are not going to work due to the shorter control length.
 

AL_V

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Location
Canton, Ohio
Yes, put the grip almost all the way on, and shorten the throttle tube.
I also cut 1/2" off each end of the bars and still have plenty of room for the controls.
 
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