wfopete
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I just got that kit and it had the old style (weak) bracket
All versions of the side stand bracket have the same number, even after the new brackets were put into service.According to my parts order history that is correct.
When did you order it? My order date for the warrantied part was July 17th.I just got that kit and it had the old style (weak) bracket
My original bracket that broke said “SMX1-F-SS-13 B” on it. That was on my EX purchased in July of this year. The new, stronger one that Stark sent me last week says “SMX1-F-SS-13 E” on it.All versions of the side stand bracket have the same number, even after the new brackets were put into service.
Yes, you could weld it, but you can also send a photo of the broken bracket to Stark support, and they will send you a new and improved one for free under warranty.Before I could catch him I heard a pop and knew right then that weak SS investment cast bracket had snapped.
Beautiful bike, SKDA makes the best graphics kit, where did you get the KYB stickers from ?Good to know about Stark offering a stronger bracketI missed that option at this point however the one I now have is definitely very strong and also address the other issue that previously required me to add a screw to reduce forward kick stand angle which caused the bike to lean too much without that mod. Hopefully Stark resolved both with the new bracket.
The seat is a (Seat Concepts) comfort seat cover and new foam. I had to re use the stock plastic seat pan and install the new foam and cover myself. I have the same ones on my ICE bikes so they work well for me and I’m set up with a long reach air stapler and SS staples already so not too bad. Stark has a really tight stapling area along the mid section so be aware you need a long reach upholstery gun. At this time they do not (yet) offer complete new seats. I purchased mine from Slavens Racing. I also got most of my other parts from them as well. Molecule full wrap hand gaurds, skid plate, and chain guide. The guide is just a (KTM) guide but Bulletproof makes the billet adapter for Stark. This allows you to use a o-ring chain and master link going forward. I also did a Stark rear 18” wheel with Tubliss and gummy tire of choice. The skid plate helps protect the lower gear case, foot pegs and linkage but I also added a Enduro Hog case cover that just glues on with clear silicon. Works well and was cheap. I also added STR fork bleeders and ASV shorty levers. STR are the best IMO for not sucking in air/leaking and I really like the feel of the ASV vs stock. Especially for the LHRB. Again all from Slavens. Oh my graphics came from SKDA placed over new white plastics from Stark. The bike originally came red with 19” rear wheel.
All this has added some weight and I also understand the argument about the stock skid plate vs the one I’m choosing to use but for what I do, I need the protection and various parts more than just being as light as possible which is lipstick on a pig no matter what regardless. The only things I have left are lift straps front and rear, Mako 360 bar mounts combined with ditching the Stark phone mount. I’m fine with leaving that phone in the truck! Just keep the blue tooth behind the front plate.
Oh….
I probably will eventually get around to doing a re valve for the forks. My suspension actually works quite well as is for the aggressive east coast single track stuff we mostly do but I have yet to see the last 4” of travel except when hitting an occasional big impact type jumps. It’s definitely fully broken in now and I actually have the compression clickers fully out. Maybe try to remove 10-15 ml per side oil next. Cheers
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