Varg - Gear Oil Change

[mbw479]

You will have to use some sort of thread tapper to get it out.

I found an alternative which is a hex head and stainless steel. This works and have had zero issues. But be cautious, this bolt is stronger than the motor aluminum threads. If you blow the threads out on the motor you are SOL. Stark will void the warranty. The bolt heads bottom out on the motor cover and this oil plug has to be low profile; hex head is the only option.

It should be snug, there is no PSI forcing the oil out.

Amazon.com

WeiSen M10 x 1.50mm Magnetic Engine Oil Drain Plug Transmission Drain Plug Compatible with Toyota Tacoma 4Runner Tundra RAV4 Sequoia Land Cruiser​

Thanks, how much clearance is there inside the housing behind the bolt?

 

[Foss]

Thanks, how much clearance is there inside the housing behind the bolt?

For the shared link hex head bolt, it’s nearly identical to stark crappy aluminum torx plug. But playing wack a mole and trying all the other alternatives, I had one success with a Kawasaki bolt head but the rim of the bolt rubbed against the motor cover and I could not fit a socket on the bolt heads. I had to use a wrench to torque the bolt flush, which still rubbed on the side. All too sketchy, so the low profile hex head stainless steel was the best option I could find.

And the depth inside is fine. Will not hit the gear.

 

[Theo]

Some days ago I changed mine and I recorded a video of the oil being lifted by the gears.
I was able to see the same thing turning the wheel by hand.
I will remember this in case I will need a quick way to verify that the gearbox is not working dry.

 

[Magoo69]

I asked Stark about the milky gear oil….this is their response. Crazy to me that there is a direct line into the gearbox. They are saying to be cautious when washing it. What about water crossings, mud, dust? Thank you for contacting Stark. This comes from the fact that some water is coming in from the breather hose into the motorcase. As mentioned on the VARG's Owners Manual, please be cautious when whashing your VARG and don't use high pressure. VARG Owners Manual Meanwhile, we are producing a valve for the breather pipe which will prevent the water from entering this breather pipe. It should be available soon. Please find attached the picture of the hose. Flush a little bit of oil to clean it and refilling with 80Ml (full until oil comes out of the Gear oil level bolt) Please let us know if there’s anything else we can assist you with. Best regards, Stark Future Team

 

[Chaconne]

I just attempted my first oil change, the torx head stripped straight out.

Any suggestions how to get it out?

The bolt is complete shit. I thought it was the freebie toolset at first but I used snap-ons and craftsman high quality torx with good tools and it still stripped. The torque spec is likely wrong or the heat/cool impact wasn't well accounted for. My bike has about 5 hours on it.

You can chisel it out. You have to be very careful, it is a good idea to have a good chisel set. It is very soft shit and you need to start on the outside (some metal will peel off the head) move up on bolt head and take a deeper cuts. And continue to be extremely careful to NOT to let the chisel touch the housing, the copper crush washer gives a good limit line. Keep going until it breaks loose. That is how I got it out see pic below, the crush washer should always be able to sit flat against metal on the bolt and you know you did it right if the washer has no dings.

I have been changing oil on dirtbikes for 40 years and I felt like I was working on my Bultaco Pursang in 1980. I love my Stark so far but like many Euro bikes I have had over the years I worry about the metal work and the machining.

Also, be careful with other soft metal parts. I also have to order a new filler plug which also has a poor torx. If you strip the torx there you can remove it by using a pliars head in the detents --a medium electrical pliars will work (not stripper pliars but real electrical pliars). The plug actually had anti-sieze grease on it but the crappy torx still stripped, I was using the supplied torx in the kit for that. I have tons of my own tools but I was thinking the supplied kit might be one with the universe... That didn't work out.

 

[blbills]

Not sure what all the problems are. It's a tight T30. I bet you used a T27 and stripped it. I had no issues.

 

[Chaconne]

I asked Stark about the milky gear oil….this is their response. Crazy to me that there is a direct line into the gearbox. They are saying to be cautious when washing it. What about water crossings, mud, dust? Thank you for contacting Stark. This comes from the fact that some water is coming in from the breather hose into the motorcase. As mentioned on the VARG's Owners Manual, please be cautious when whashing your VARG and don't use high pressure. VARG Owners Manual Meanwhile, we are producing a valve for the breather pipe which will prevent the water from entering this breather pipe. It should be available soon. Please find attached the picture of the hose. Flush a little bit of oil to clean it and refilling with 80Ml (full until oil comes out of the Gear oil level bolt) View attachment 11189 Please let us know if there’s anything else we can assist you with. Best regards, Stark Future Team

Seems like you would really have to work to get a pressure washer to get water into that little hose even if you tried. My bike has gone pretty deep into streams and puddles with rainy spring season. My oil was slightly milky not like some of the vids I have seen. Thanks for pinging them.

 

[Chaconne]

Not sure what all the problems are. It's a tight T30. I bet you used a T27 and stripped it. I had no issues.

No. I used a clearly marked T30 both snap-on and craftsman. My guess is it was way over torqued at the factory and that is why so many folks are stripping them. It is cheap shit and if it wasn't over torqued it was poorly spec'd.

 

[Foss]

@Chaconne is right, this drain plug is garbage. I did post an alternative which is stainless steal but be careful over torquing. You strip the powertrain drain threads you will have a bigger problem not covered by stark.

One thing I did notice is the spacer sleeve for the counter shaft is bone dry. It may be worth removing the 14T sprocket and removing this sleeve and adding some grease. Also the o-ring may need some grease as well. The grease helps not only for lubricating, but also creates an added seal for dirt or debris. I didn’t go as far as removing the counter shaft seal seeing this motor is going back to stark. Unless they can let me hold onto it I’ll be taking this thing apart.

 

[mbw479]

I asked Stark about the milky gear oil….this is their response. Crazy to me that there is a direct line into the gearbox. They are saying to be cautious when washing it. What about water crossings, mud, dust? Thank you for contacting Stark. This comes from the fact that some water is coming in from the breather hose into the motorcase. As mentioned on the VARG's Owners Manual, please be cautious when whashing your VARG and don't use high pressure. VARG Owners Manual Meanwhile, we are producing a valve for the breather pipe which will prevent the water from entering this breather pipe. It should be available soon. Please find attached the picture of the hose. Flush a little bit of oil to clean it and refilling with 80Ml (full until oil comes out of the Gear oil level bolt) View attachment 11189 Please let us know if there’s anything else we can assist you with. Best regards, Stark Future Team

All bikes have a crankcase breather, It has caused issues with many bikes but it's necessary to save your engine seals from blowing out under pressure. I heard some starks had a very short breather that made it easy to get water in. Mine has a long hose that runs up to the top of the subframe and down again.

 

[Chaconne]

@Chaconne is right, this drain plug is garbage. I did post an alternative which is stainless steal but be careful over torquing. You strip the powertrain drain threads you will have a bigger problem not covered by stark.

One thing I did notice is the spacer sleeve for the counter shaft is bone dry. It may be worth removing the 14T sprocket and removing this sleeve and adding some grease. Also the o-ring may need some grease as well. The grease helps not only for lubricating, but also creates an added seal for dirt or debris. I didn’t go as far as removing the counter shaft seal seeing this motor is going back to stark. Unless they can let me hold onto it I’ll be taking this thing apart.

Hi @Foss thanks for the great info on the alternative. Amazon ships it in a day here. If you don't mind me asking, why is your motor going back?

 

[Foss]

Hi @Foss thanks for the great info on the alternative. Amazon ships it in a day here. If you don't mind me asking, why is your motor going back?

No problem man! Bad bearings, I have a nasty grinding noise which is not expected.

 

[Foss]

Motor is coming today, I should have this thing put back together in a couple hours. I started last night doing this backwards but it’s not rocket science. Just need to make sure you unplug the CAN bus first then the main cable. Looking at this job if stark used different cabling, one could remove the motor without dropped the battery.

 

[Foss]

All completed, the battery reinstalling for me was the only hard part. But once you have everything buttoned up, you will have a solid yellow light… just do an update holding both (+) & (-) together for 12 seconds while it’s powered on in solid yellow. After that you should be good to go.

I added a photo of the new breather pipe… looks like stark just decided to block the whole thing off lol.

 

[mike61]

Blue shoes.....
Nice;-))

 

[Chaconne]

No problem man! Bad bearings, I have a nasty grinding noise which is not expected.

 

[mbw479]

All completed, the battery reinstalling for me was the only hard part. But once you have everything buttoned up, you will have a solid yellow light… just do an update holding both (+) & (-) together for 12 seconds while it’s powered on in solid yellow. After that you should be good to go.

I added a photo of the new breather pipe… looks like stark just decided to block the whole thing off lol.

View attachment 11263

View attachment 11264

View attachment 11266

Are you sure the breather is meant to be blocked off when installed, rather than have the bolt removed and the old breather hose fitted?

I have a new motor on the way for mine, mine locked up. I also had a battery fault straight out of the crate that I have already changed.

I have undone every bolt on the bike and I have 2.3hrs on it....

 

[mike61]

Wow, a lot of trouble around the world.
And the customers are able to repair it themselves.
Good system, but bad for dealers and workshops.
And I suppose cheaper than a worldwide support system.

 

[blbills]

All completed, the battery reinstalling for me was the only hard part. But once you have everything buttoned up, you will have a solid yellow light… just do an update holding both (+) & (-) together for 12 seconds while it’s powered on in solid yellow. After that you should be good to go.

I added a photo of the new breather pipe… looks like stark just decided to block the whole thing off lol.

I'm pretty sure that breather hole is just plugged so nothing gets into it (or out) while stored and transported. If I were you I would install your existing breather hose.

 

[Foss]

valid points on the breather, one could argue it is intended to be like this for storage purposes in the warehouse which you did mention.

I’m not going to touch it, to me I am the customer and nothing was mentioned in their documentation, video warning sticker, or preparation notifications with the packaged. So I can just say… well the new motor came like this, I reached out to you (stark) for clarification…and yep, if something fails I get another brand new one.

But I did email stark with the photo and asked if this is by design.

Also who else here has the music from stark futures video guides stuck in their head on a loop here? I certain do when I am working on the bike I hear their music in my head lmao