2017 mx won’t start? - Solved

[Carl weaver]

Hello, I have a 2017 mx with 495 miles on it. Today I went to ride and I push the start button , it won’t start. Battery: Neg. contractor fail Comes on screen. Can anybody help me? I have no idea what to do. This is the first issue I have ever had. I’m outside of Cleveland, Ohio. I bought from Colorado in 2017. Any help would be great.
thank you.
Carl

 

[OneLapper]

Hey Carl,

I'm pretty sure the fix will be replacing the contactor. Unfortunately, it's not easy to do and therefore no one has attempted the repair. The contactors are available from Gigavac, but Alta used epoxy to secure the contactors inside the top battery lid. It's possible that someone may have an unused battery lid, maybe @ayden_kry at Liquid can search their collection. I know they have the contactors.

In any case, we'll get you up and going somehow!

Pretty soon someone will tell you to tap on the top of the battery lid to see if the contactor starts working. If you haven't tried this, consider it Step One. Give that a shot and report back.

 

[Oded]

Do you have the knowledge to uninstall the battery pack and open it?

Most inportant, do not reset the error via the multitool and try to start the bike.

Please read this thread -
Error 32 - Service required negative weld. not good...

 

[Mark911]

I've changed out the contactors on the A packs before so I can help you. However, I must say that in the case of Oded's contactor failure I couldn't see anything wrong with the part upon DPA (Destructive Physical Analysis).

 

[OneLapper]

I've changed out the contactors on the A packs before so I can help you. However, I must say that in the case of Oded's contactor failure I couldn't see anything wrong with the part upon DPA (Destructive Physical Analysis).

@Oded , you replaced the entire BCU lid assembly from a doner battery pack, right?

 

[Carl weaver]

I’ll try the tapping the battery tonight when I get home. The bike has never been hooked up to a computer since I bought it in 2017. I don’t have the multitool. The bike does not show any codes on display. Only the battery: neg. contactor fail. I’ve don’t have any experience with the electrical part of bike, just 2yrs of fun on bike.

 

[Judaslefourbe]

Before taking anything apart, I recommend a gentle tap on the top of the pack with a rubber mallet.
If that doesnt work, get a bigger mallet


I'm joking... if it doesnt work, you will likely have to change the top cover.

 

[Oded]

@Oded , you replaced the entire BCU lid assembly from a doner battery pack, right?

Yeah, that is correct

 

[Carl weaver]

Success!!! The rubber mallet worked!! Do I need to carry it with me when I ride and shut it off? Is this just temporary fix or how many times can I hit it? Can the contactor fail if i am ridding? Should I leave it on if just resting for a few minutes between laps.
Thank you very much!

 

[Judaslefourbe]

Well... so the failure mode is the contactor is getting stuck closed.
Over time, there will be more and more deposit on the contacts and it will eventually stay closed for good.
It is difficult/impossible to say how that process will take.
I believe it happens only when the bike is off.
It won't harm it if you leave it on and will shut down after 15 minutes.

 

[Slayer]

 

[Rashid510]

@Judaslefourbe took you long enough

 

[C5tor]

Success!!! The rubber mallet worked!! Do I need to carry it with me when I ride and shut it off? Is this just temporary fix or how many times can I hit it? Can the contactor fail if i am ridding? Should I leave it on if just resting for a few minutes between laps.
Thank you very much!

I love it when my one real mechanical skill (whacking offending machinery with a big hammer) still has applications in the 21st century, even with electronics. Brings back fond memories from successful repair adventures from yesteryear, such as smacking the old b&w TV to get the channel to come in, kicking the vending machine to make it cough up the loot, and the classic whack the distributor to get points unstuck to start the vehicle. Glad to see that percussive maintenance still has a place in the world of legitimate repair techniques.

 

[Oded]

Success!!! The rubber mallet worked!! Do I need to carry it with me when I ride and shut it off? Is this just temporary fix or how many times can I hit it? Can the contactor fail if i am ridding? Should I leave it on if just resting for a few minutes between laps.
Thank you very much!

Great news!!

 

[OneLapper]

Okay!

Now we know that your battery pack needs only the contactors. That's good news, actually. They are available and the part numbers are listed on the forum here somewhere. The R packs and A packs have different contactors, btw.

There are several of us working behind the scenes right now on solving this very problem. We are trying to source new battery lids, one of the members has made the de-pinning tool, and we know we can buy the contactors direct.

Keep your rubber mallet handy. Like @Judaslefourbe told you, the issue will not fix itself. It'll happen again unfortunately.

Minimizing cycling the bike on and off when riding will extend the life of the faulty contactor.

Good luck! Hold tight!

 

[F451]

I love it when my one real mechanical skill (whacking offending machinery with a big hammer) still has applications in the 21st century, even with electronics. Brings back fond memories from successful repair adventures from yesteryear, such as smacking the old b&w TV to get the channel to come in, kicking the vending machine to make it cough up the loot, and the classic whack the distributor to get points unstuck to start the vehicle. Glad to see that percussive maintenance still has a place in the world of legitimate repair techniques.

Don't forget recalcitrant starters, they respond pretty good to hammers too, Lol.

Sorry, could not resist.

And great news on the diagnostics and general support here!