General EBMX X-9000 WOES

[Yz450f]

I’ve tested the X-9000 controller on the Ultra Bee. I’m quite disappointed and thought I should point out issues. Hopefully EBMX can resolve them in the future.
Con: Installation will almost completely disable the instrument panel. The only thing still working is the battery indicator. No odometer, speedometer, mode, etc.
Con: Right side controls are completely removed. (Mode switch, ready switch, red kill switch) all gone.
Con: kickstand switch no longer used. EBMX wire harness doesn’t support it either.
Con: front brake switch no longer functional (the wire is completely removed as part of the installation. Your brake light won’t work using the front brake.
Con: Regen by brake switches non-functional.
Con: The provided handlebar display is 15mm wide! That’s it. Good luck reading it at arms length. The speed updates very slow. I could accelerate to 45 and the display still shows 15… and this thing is hard wired!
Con: there is no instructions on how to use the display. Nothing came with it and it’s not on their website.
Con: Reverse switch disabled (wiring doesn’t support it)
Con: traction control disabled (I don’t use, but I’m pointing it out)
Con: the Regen throttle gets in the way of you are using turn signals for street use.
Pro: App is great. Compared to Torp, in my opinion EBMX app is a better interface.
Con: App doesn’t work with all phones. EBMX doesn’t provide a list of phones that are compatible. I had to learn the hard way. My phone gets rejected “by the controller” when trying to connect via Bluetooth. Tech support can’t fix.
Pro: lights and horn still work. (Exception is the front brake switch no longer connected)
Pro: The Regen throttle works very well.
Pro: EBMX tech support is prompt
Con: EBMX tech support won’t provide me with a solution to any of my issues.
Pro: crash sensor no longer used. It’s a pro because you don’t want crash sensor on a dirt bike. If you do want it, forget it. X-9000 UB adapter wiring harness doesn’t support it.
Con: wiring harness could be improved. The Provided Ultra Bee adapter wire harness is too long and requires careful placement to squeeze excess wire between the battery and controller. However, the encoder wire is way too short and almost won’t fit. Battery fits tight against it with no stress relief. Doesn’t make sense why they made it the ultra bee adapter harness this way.
Con: it’s heavy. Beefy components might be a pro, but know it’s a chunk of weight.
***I need to point out that upon close examination of the Ultra Bee adapter harness, the only signals used are the throttle and the encoder. Nothing else is in the wiring harness. You will not be able to use the kickstand sensor or crash sensor even though those options are available on the App. Also, my x-9000 was having issues operating at the power settings for my configuration and I had to lower those parameters. After a couple weeks, the controller quit working. Maybe it was just bad luck. I was limiting the controller to 15kw. It seems it shouldn’t fail operating at less than half its capability on a stock battery and motor. Replaced with the stock controller and it works with no issues. I eventually got a Torp controller and it is working good so far (couple weeks).

 

[HadesOmega]

Works great for me on my Light Bee. I used to have a KO F-Spec controller and it doesn't seem as fast as that controller but I mainly bought it for the regen throttle. One problem I have is I have a Domino throttle and the throttle calibration wizard doesn't red the high voltage properly. I have to play with it till I get it close. The eggrider display is near useless. It's hard to read the numbers and font are so tiny. I also don't like that you are locked in at 3 ride modes. In my opinion I'd rather have just 2 ride modes and no reverse or neutral. I accidentally press the mode button will riding and racing and I wonder why the bike is so slow or why it's trying to go into reverse.

I am running my X9K at 30KW when I race supermoto races and drag racing. It's so fast but it also overheats my KO F-Spec motor.

For the Ultra Bee I would think the Torp controller is better. It integrates with the bike better than the EBMX.

 

[EDR1]

Works great for me on my Light Bee. I used to have a KO F-Spec controller and it doesn't seem as fast as that controller but I mainly bought it for the regen throttle. One problem I have is I have a Domino throttle and the throttle calibration wizard doesn't red the high voltage properly. I have to play with it till I get it close. The eggrider display is near useless. It's hard to read the numbers and font are so tiny. I also don't like that you are locked in at 3 ride modes. In my opinion I'd rather have just 2 ride modes and no reverse or neutral. I accidentally press the mode button will riding and racing and I wonder why the bike is so slow or why it's trying to go into reverse.

I am running my X9K at 30KW when I race supermoto races and drag racing. It's so fast but it also overheats my KO F-Spec motor.

For the Ultra Bee I would think the Torp controller is better. It integrates with the bike better than the EBMX.

Merlin, just installed a x9000 on my LB w/ existing domino analog throttle. Found the throttle voltage jumps around and the acceleration is extremely jumpy on the stand. Going to try a spare Domino and also a cheap throttle to see if they help. Something else I can try in the app?

 

[HadesOmega]

Like I mentioned I just keep trying and trying till I get the correct voltage in the wizard. It really choppy and jumps around in the wizard but when you ride it is smooth. You can manually set the voltages but you need the passcode to do it unfortunately. If you go into the diagnostics window or gauge cluster mode you can see the realtime throttle voltages. Take note of the minimum and maximum voltages.

 

[EDR1]

Merlin, fixed it by replacing the Domino. The first few degrees of twist on the old Domino caused very unstable motor output which corresponded with the app diagnostics throttle voltage being erratic. Will look at how much it is possible to take apart the bad throttle to spray some contact cleaner in there. Another possible technique would be to change the minimum throttle voltage from 0 to a higher voltage to avoid the dirty minimum throttle position but that would cause a deadband starting at minimum throttle position. (Not going to mess with that since the manufacturer’s rep is in San Leandro, can pick up another any time)

 

[EDR1]

Update- disassembled the throttle and the potentiometer is sealed plastic with the wires glued in Silastic. I’ll call them and ask if these parts are sold separately (would be stunned if yes) before buying another throttle.