Border Dave
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- Bellingham, Washington
Mine came with my bike unassembled in a box with all needed parts. I bought my bike from a dealer.
LHRB install difficulty?
- Thread starter rtf
- Start date
rtf
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- Pittsburgh, PA
I tried finding a way to not dissemble it and I don’t think it’s possible without removing the battery. Even then, I couldn’t get it to fit between the forks to route behind the headlight. I also just reused the copper washers and snugged them up.
My guess is Stark installs these while the frame is open and sources from Brembo fully assembled and just shipped them this way.
Haven’t dug into it to much, but it looks like it’s going to be a pain to run that wire for the brake light through the bars.
FreddyFugazi
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- BVT
I'm really not sure why they provided a redundant master cylinder instead of the brake light cable, but I'm sure you can't route it as is. I had a hard enough time getting just the brake line routed. I ordered mine with the bike and it came with the cable and without the extra master cylinder.
As for routing the wire, after I pinched the first one I just did it the ol fashion way with zipties haha. The issue I had was the whole is under where the controls clamp to the bars so you need to route it through a tiny notch in the back of that housing, but you also have to loosen it to fit the wire. I thought I had it set right but when I tightened the controls back down the wire pinched.
As for routing the wire, after I pinched the first one I just did it the ol fashion way with zipties haha. The issue I had was the whole is under where the controls clamp to the bars so you need to route it through a tiny notch in the back of that housing, but you also have to loosen it to fit the wire. I thought I had it set right but when I tightened the controls back down the wire pinched.
Isn't the caliper the redundant part? Since its part number is the same for both hand and foot brake, if you have the foot brake you can reuse it.
Well, at this point I would say that if someone wants to switch to hand brake, then it's cheaper and better to just buy the master cylinder, the hose and that electric wire for the lights instead of the complete assembly.
Chaconne
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- Massachusetts
They were probably out of replacement parts and took a production one off the line so the customer didn't have to wait.
rtf
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- Pittsburgh, PA
My setup came from the Texas location to PA in only 2/3 days so I doubt it in my case. Wasn’t a big deal to take mine apart, it’s the only way to do it correctly that I could see.
The pads aren’t bedded yet buts definitely a 2 finger pull to lock up the rear. Hoping jt gets better.
I got the dual kit from MotoZ. No instructions, but watched a similar video and got the gist of it. Reverse bled and then locked lever to bars. Released couple hours later and had great feel to it. Routing the wire was easy. Just stripped out a ground from some romex to use as a snake to guide it through. The most time consuming was just removing plastic and cf to route brake line neatly. Not difficult, just time consuming.
leadingedge
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- USA
With a dual brake setup on the EX, can both micro switches (Rear hand and Foot brakes) be plugged in at the same time to have the brake light come in with both rear hand and foot brake levers?
I just purchased a EX. I bought it used but barely used. Less than 1 hour. The original owner crashed it and decided it needed to be sold. Just scratched a bit but fine. Anyhow he said the rear brake light, running light and turn signals including the add on signals have never worked but he didn’t bother to ask for Stark to resolve it. Now that I own it, I want to sort it out. I started a warranty claim with Stark but it’s been super slow and annoying so far. Please help if anyone has ideas.
So the bike came with foot rear brake. No LHRB. Stark sent me one but it did not come with the required micro switch! They also sent me a new rear tail light to try.
Symptoms…….. and progress so far…..
Before removing the foot brake and with the original front hand brake still installed by the previous owner it had no rear tail light function at all.
No functioning brake light, running or turn. He had not even tried the auxiliary add on turn signals for the front or that big black tag bracket with rear turn/brake signals and tag light.
The front headlight with integrated dildo signals work perfectly!
I tried dis-connecting the front brake micro switch plug (blue) that’s under the bars in the junction box. No improvement! I also tried un plugging the rear foot brake at the connector along the frame rail. Nothing changes. I then tried to hook up those auxiliary signals both front and rear.
Results……
The front signals remain completely dead no matter what!
The fugly ugly rear bracket signals came on fully bright as if the brake lights were stuck on but that’s it. No change in the rear integrated tail light and no turn signal function. Again this all happens with or without micro plugs for brakes connected.
Where I’m at so far after Stark’s seemly only throwing darts but no real human interaction such as an escalated phone call with a person who understands Stark wiring diagnoses…….
I’m requesting help from you folks who made it this far. Thx for reading!!
I removed the foot brake because I prefer LHRB! I installed the new tail light. I found that the previous owner had pinched the front hand brake wire under the stop switch during initial bike setup. He had it delivered to his home directly from Lithium Power sports. This may be the root cause???!!
I repaired the pinch by cutting, soldering heat shrinking and I think that was a good job, but I did not test continuity with a volt meter because I didn’t have one at the time and the repair looked really good. Could be an issue still ????, I suppose but the wires are simple red black and are quality tinned wires. The plastic micro switch pin clicks and seems to work when the lever is actuated.
The new LHRB is now installed but Stark sent a MX brake kit so it doesn’t have the micro switch and now the rear ft brake has been removed.
Any improvements?????…….
The new rear tail light they supplied illuminates now!
I can exchange the original with the new and the new one has definitely added a single functional light but not sure if it’s running or brake. No turn signals however and when adding the auxiliary blinkers both front and rear, more of the same with just the rear auxiliary’s shining bright and the tag light functions. They appear to be very bright like brakes stuck on. This makes me believe I have brake light switch issues. How do they work exactly? I would think if they are all un plugged, that would make the brake light go out when trying to isolate a bad micro switch. Maybe it’s just the opposite???
So I need to keep bugging Stark. They went back quiet for days now which is why I’m on here bugging you kind folks.
I plan to request two new hand brake micro switches to replace the one originaly pinched/repaired and the one missing from Stark.
I saw the poster on page (one) who edited the post as to where the LHRB should plug into. It was changed to the rear foot brake frame rail location but that doesn’t makes sense to me?. I feel like it should simply plug into the junction box (blue) right beside the front hand brake plug. I also bet the cable isn’t long enough to make it much past the under bars junction box.
I assume I will leave the rear ft brake frame rail plug open and just cap it off with those rubber micro plug caps???? But does that default as closed or open leaving a connector un plugged? I say this because I suspect this is why those fugly rear turn signals stay lit up bright.
None of this explains why I get nothing from the front auxiliary signals at all regardless of what I’ve tried. And zero turn signals function except the dildo ones in the headlight.
Another big question is this. Does the rear tail light when functioning properly have running, brake and weak but some turn signal function all integrated within that nice rear tail light??
To be clear…..
When this is all said and done, I will NOT be using the auxiliary signals at all. I’m simply using them now to sort this bike out while it’s still new and under full warranty in case when I sell it, the next person has everything for proper wiring in case they prefer a more street legal set up for the USA where I’m at.
Again thanks to anyone that takes their valuable time to read this and offer useful input. This is the tough part with these Electric bikes and also dealing with all new technology and designs.
I have a lifetime of ICE dirt bikes and normally can resolve all issues myself. This in reality seems quite petty compared to the big issues some folks here have dealt with. But I like my stuff right and this thing is literally 1 hour new and even buying used is super pricey so I at least want to try and get it all working properly.
So the bike came with foot rear brake. No LHRB. Stark sent me one but it did not come with the required micro switch! They also sent me a new rear tail light to try.
Symptoms…….. and progress so far…..
Before removing the foot brake and with the original front hand brake still installed by the previous owner it had no rear tail light function at all.
No functioning brake light, running or turn. He had not even tried the auxiliary add on turn signals for the front or that big black tag bracket with rear turn/brake signals and tag light.
The front headlight with integrated dildo signals work perfectly!
I tried dis-connecting the front brake micro switch plug (blue) that’s under the bars in the junction box. No improvement! I also tried un plugging the rear foot brake at the connector along the frame rail. Nothing changes. I then tried to hook up those auxiliary signals both front and rear.
Results……
The front signals remain completely dead no matter what!
The fugly ugly rear bracket signals came on fully bright as if the brake lights were stuck on but that’s it. No change in the rear integrated tail light and no turn signal function. Again this all happens with or without micro plugs for brakes connected.
Where I’m at so far after Stark’s seemly only throwing darts but no real human interaction such as an escalated phone call with a person who understands Stark wiring diagnoses…….
I’m requesting help from you folks who made it this far. Thx for reading!!
I removed the foot brake because I prefer LHRB! I installed the new tail light. I found that the previous owner had pinched the front hand brake wire under the stop switch during initial bike setup. He had it delivered to his home directly from Lithium Power sports. This may be the root cause???!!
I repaired the pinch by cutting, soldering heat shrinking and I think that was a good job, but I did not test continuity with a volt meter because I didn’t have one at the time and the repair looked really good. Could be an issue still ????, I suppose but the wires are simple red black and are quality tinned wires. The plastic micro switch pin clicks and seems to work when the lever is actuated.
The new LHRB is now installed but Stark sent a MX brake kit so it doesn’t have the micro switch and now the rear ft brake has been removed.
Any improvements?????…….
The new rear tail light they supplied illuminates now!
I can exchange the original with the new and the new one has definitely added a single functional light but not sure if it’s running or brake. No turn signals however and when adding the auxiliary blinkers both front and rear, more of the same with just the rear auxiliary’s shining bright and the tag light functions. They appear to be very bright like brakes stuck on. This makes me believe I have brake light switch issues. How do they work exactly? I would think if they are all un plugged, that would make the brake light go out when trying to isolate a bad micro switch. Maybe it’s just the opposite???
So I need to keep bugging Stark. They went back quiet for days now which is why I’m on here bugging you kind folks.
I plan to request two new hand brake micro switches to replace the one originaly pinched/repaired and the one missing from Stark.
I saw the poster on page (one) who edited the post as to where the LHRB should plug into. It was changed to the rear foot brake frame rail location but that doesn’t makes sense to me?. I feel like it should simply plug into the junction box (blue) right beside the front hand brake plug. I also bet the cable isn’t long enough to make it much past the under bars junction box.
I assume I will leave the rear ft brake frame rail plug open and just cap it off with those rubber micro plug caps???? But does that default as closed or open leaving a connector un plugged? I say this because I suspect this is why those fugly rear turn signals stay lit up bright.
None of this explains why I get nothing from the front auxiliary signals at all regardless of what I’ve tried. And zero turn signals function except the dildo ones in the headlight.
Another big question is this. Does the rear tail light when functioning properly have running, brake and weak but some turn signal function all integrated within that nice rear tail light??
To be clear…..
When this is all said and done, I will NOT be using the auxiliary signals at all. I’m simply using them now to sort this bike out while it’s still new and under full warranty in case when I sell it, the next person has everything for proper wiring in case they prefer a more street legal set up for the USA where I’m at.
Again thanks to anyone that takes their valuable time to read this and offer useful input. This is the tough part with these Electric bikes and also dealing with all new technology and designs.
I have a lifetime of ICE dirt bikes and normally can resolve all issues myself. This in reality seems quite petty compared to the big issues some folks here have dealt with. But I like my stuff right and this thing is literally 1 hour new and even buying used is super pricey so I at least want to try and get it all working properly.
AbnormalWrench
Well-known member
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- 59
- Location
- Seattle, WA, USA
When you plug in the non-integrated signals/lights, the integrated lights stop working by design. The rear integrated lights are very dim, it can be hard to even see the turn signals in that little light piece, and the brake light is barely brighter than the running light.
The brake micro switches are very simple, they have two wires and when they are engaged, they close contacts (connect the two wires). Unfortunately the connectors Stark uses makes it pretty much impossible to back probe them, so it is pretty hard to tell if you have a shorted brake circuit or not. I would assume Stark could check the PID for it if they did a zoom session with you.
But if you had a pinched wire, I wouldn't be surprised if the computer decided to shut off those circuits - there are no fuses on these bikes, everything is handled through the computer and if it doesn't like what it sees on a circuit, it shuts it down. So even though you repaired that circuit, it may still be mad about it. I would try doing a hard reset (hold the up and down buttons down for 10+ seconds, until the white LED flashes) let it sit for an hour then turn it back on and see if that changed anything. I have had several random issues with my lights and that tends to fix them.
Hope that helps.
The brake micro switches are very simple, they have two wires and when they are engaged, they close contacts (connect the two wires). Unfortunately the connectors Stark uses makes it pretty much impossible to back probe them, so it is pretty hard to tell if you have a shorted brake circuit or not. I would assume Stark could check the PID for it if they did a zoom session with you.
But if you had a pinched wire, I wouldn't be surprised if the computer decided to shut off those circuits - there are no fuses on these bikes, everything is handled through the computer and if it doesn't like what it sees on a circuit, it shuts it down. So even though you repaired that circuit, it may still be mad about it. I would try doing a hard reset (hold the up and down buttons down for 10+ seconds, until the white LED flashes) let it sit for an hour then turn it back on and see if that changed anything. I have had several random issues with my lights and that tends to fix them.
Hope that helps.
Wow ok thanks for this useful info. I’m still not sure why the aux blinkers don’t function at all though. I also really can’t see any brake light difference now that I put the new tail light on. That’s without the auxiliary stuff involved. Lastly, is the hard shut down using both buttons different than the one it will do if you use the throttle side stop button? To me that button seems to fully shut down the red flashing light. Regardless though, I’ve not tried to let it sit that way for an hour.
leadingedge
Member
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- 11
- Location
- USA
@HITNRUN This image is from another thread here, I added some info. Hopefully it will help...
Unplug your Street legal blinkers 3&4.
Unplug 1.
Hard shut down the bike.
Change the 7&8 around, depending on where yours is plugged into.
Plug 1 back in and make sure it's nicely seated.
Start up the bike again and wait for it, and the phone to start up correctly. Select a riding mode as if you're about to go riding. Now try the headlight high beam, integrated indicators and brake.
Hope it helps, this made a difference when I had some light issues after installing my LHRB in combination with my foot brake.
It seems like sometimes the electronics / processor gets confused depending on the start up sequence, whether you select a ride mode or not before the next shutdown and what order things are done in.
Unplug your Street legal blinkers 3&4.
Unplug 1.
Hard shut down the bike.
Change the 7&8 around, depending on where yours is plugged into.
Plug 1 back in and make sure it's nicely seated.
Start up the bike again and wait for it, and the phone to start up correctly. Select a riding mode as if you're about to go riding. Now try the headlight high beam, integrated indicators and brake.
Hope it helps, this made a difference when I had some light issues after installing my LHRB in combination with my foot brake.
It seems like sometimes the electronics / processor gets confused depending on the start up sequence, whether you select a ride mode or not before the next shutdown and what order things are done in.
Thx for this help as well @leadingedge . I did actually stumble across this thread previously when trying to figure out the wiring and particularly the horn.
Ironically Stark responded this evening saying they will schedule a support call this Friday. I will update this if I learn anything new to add which may help others on here in the future.
Ironically Stark responded this evening saying they will schedule a support call this Friday. I will update this if I learn anything new to add which may help others on here in the future.
Update on my lighting issue so far……
So Stark did in fact come through with a video chat call today!
The person assigned to my case (Josh) was excellent!!
It took a while to work through the email process but I have to admit that they came through plus have been very willing to send all parts needed throughout this process.
Also he, (Josh) had access to an engineer from his lap top. Together they managed to get me much further along. The rear tail light was bad. They had previously sent me a new one along with the LHRB.
The brake light switch’s are good but they will be sending one more for the LHRB that didn’t come with one.
The rear taillight and the add on stalks all work now with software re flashes completed today. As previously mentioned in the responses above, the add on bracket supersedes the built-in tail light so basically when working properly, it’s one or the other, but not both.
Only the (front) add on stalks are still not functioning.
The engineer said the next thing to try is a new set of front auxiliary turn signals.
It seems odd that both world be bad but he said that when plugging them in, the silicone molded in ones on front headlight should have turned off so it seems they are not registering as if they are both duds. We will see!
Because the rear taillight light was in fact bad, this is what they want to try next.
Regardless, I’m impressed that I now have almost everything working and to be honest, those front stalks are so lame I really don’t know if I would ever use them. It’s really just for the day I might sell this bike.
I will update this again once I test the replacement set of front stalks they are sending next but wanted to give a shout out that…. ,
Stark has handled this quite impressively so far with the combination of sending the parts needed without hassle and now this very productive video chat they arranged.
Cheers!
So Stark did in fact come through with a video chat call today!
The person assigned to my case (Josh) was excellent!!
It took a while to work through the email process but I have to admit that they came through plus have been very willing to send all parts needed throughout this process.
Also he, (Josh) had access to an engineer from his lap top. Together they managed to get me much further along. The rear tail light was bad. They had previously sent me a new one along with the LHRB.
The brake light switch’s are good but they will be sending one more for the LHRB that didn’t come with one.
The rear taillight and the add on stalks all work now with software re flashes completed today. As previously mentioned in the responses above, the add on bracket supersedes the built-in tail light so basically when working properly, it’s one or the other, but not both.
Only the (front) add on stalks are still not functioning.
The engineer said the next thing to try is a new set of front auxiliary turn signals.
It seems odd that both world be bad but he said that when plugging them in, the silicone molded in ones on front headlight should have turned off so it seems they are not registering as if they are both duds. We will see!
Because the rear taillight light was in fact bad, this is what they want to try next.
Regardless, I’m impressed that I now have almost everything working and to be honest, those front stalks are so lame I really don’t know if I would ever use them. It’s really just for the day I might sell this bike.
I will update this again once I test the replacement set of front stalks they are sending next but wanted to give a shout out that…. ,
Stark has handled this quite impressively so far with the combination of sending the parts needed without hassle and now this very productive video chat they arranged.
Cheers!
I apologize for ransacking this original post into a wiring discussion.
I’m just now seeing this original thread start post.
I can add to this. I just removed my rear brake to replace with a LHRB. I also own a Stark gen2 MX with LHRB so I didn’t want the foot brake that came on my new EX. Stark sent me a LHRB per my recent request as a complete unit so I did have to remove the banjo bolt to route the hose. I will save the extra caliper for a later date.
Since my MX came with one originally and it’s the Brembo, I have a good reference to compare. It has always provided excellent stopping power comparable with a foot brake when bled properly like the way it came from the factory!
On my EX, I had to reverse bleed, I also kept the master cylinders reservoir as high as possible and level by tying it up in the air from my garage door motor at the highest point possible to help get the smaller micro bubbles to migrate out. I left the cap off and still hanging up there for a hour or so. I then mounted it on the bars, the way I would normally run it except for in a higher very level position for now to maximize fluid capacity with the cap still off, and started flicking the lever ( tapping it), which produced even more small micro bubbles. Then to complete the job, I pulled the now working brake lever in as tight as I could, and tied it off with a strap and left it clamped for about an hour. That actually got quite a bit more small micro bubbles out.
I now have the exact same feel as my MX and have achieved a really strong acting breaks!
So yes, for anyone who’s trying to do this, it is definitely achievable with the Brembo version handbrake to get really strong brakes even with the Stark’s original brake pads supplied provided that you don’t get any brake fluid on the brake pads or rotor when you’re doing the bleeding and that you get ALL air bubbles out!