Rear suspension play

[revsplinter]

Anyone pick up the rear tire with it on a stand and feel the rear has slop? Mine only has 6 hours and has a tiny bit of up and down play. I checked with another Varg at the track and he had the same amount of play.

 

[markhamr]

yes just checked mine since you pointed it out
has a minimal amount of play like a notch (less than 2 mm )
I will investigate further
might be nothing too
seems to be in the suspension

 

[revsplinter]

yes its very minimal, but there. Wasn't the top of shock, it was in the knuckle somewhere.

 

[UKLee]

It is a build up of 5 pivot points in the shock mounts and rising rate linkages, a tiny bit in each, Much the same set up as most MX/Enduro bikes with the exception of ktm pds.
I noticed some play in mine at relatively low hours compared to what I would expect on our Yamaha's. Maybe the bearing to bushing clearance wants tightening up by a few microns.

 

[HITNRUN]

Bringing this thread back up. I have a 75 hr MX and a new EX. Both have a bit of play this when on the stand and lifting the swing arm up. But the 75 hr bike has noticeably more than the new bike for useful comparison. I can feel the most resonance/clunk at the bearing on the triangle link that the lower shock bolt fastens to. Maybe the next in line also but hard to tell. On the Stark parts, it just shows the whole new triangle linkage (rocker arm) with everything inc $210.

Looks like a good fix but likely over overkill vs just replacing parts inside like bearings, seals grease maybe bushings?? If so from who aftermarket?

The pull link is least likely IMO because first, I don’t feel much of any movement from it and snd because it’s the last in line. That one is also another $210.

Asking before I buy. Ordering parts today and need to know what others found once inside. Also links to tips for this rocker removal/replacement or inspection. Guessing it’s easy peasy like a regular linkage rocker bike like KTM but making sure??

I saw the Stark hot chick video already. Just looking for any additional insight from others chasing this advanced state of clunk now that I’m getting up in hours. The bike is well cared for but ridden hard always! Maybe washed too much but I’m not blasting the obvious bearings and sensitive areas and always use a leaf blower to dry before parking. I have not disassembled it yet. I also did not check the stock grease when new. Mixed opinions on that.

Please advise if you have actually taken one apart for this reason and what was the most common sense resolution?

Thank in advance.
Bill

 

[happyinmotion]

Just replace the bearings and seals first. The bearings are much more likely to have play than the solid metal linkages.

There's a good thread on how to do this. It's all pretty easy aside from the two needle bearings in the pull rode. Those are a pain.

 

[HITNRUN]

Ok I’m seeing the thread now. Also see Stark does break the parts down to each item. I suppose I will take it all apart tonight and hold off on the order until I get a good count of what’s worn to see if it’s only a handful of aged needle bearings and seals plus full clean and re grease. I agree the bushing shouldn’t be pitted unless I find zero grease.

 

[Theo]

Don't forget to check the upper shock spherical bearing.
You could disassemble everything and, first of all, test each bushing in its bearing. The pullrod to rocker arm bushing and the rockerarm to swingarm bushing should have the same outer diameter since their bearings have the same part number, so you can switch them for testing on the bench.
The bushings should be the easiest to check: I suppose that their outer diameter is ground at the same dimension for the whole length even in the sections that don't get worn being outside the needles mating surfaces. Micrometers could be good tools to compare the diameters in different points; if worn bushings are causing the play, they must be worn on some extended areas, not just in some tiny spots and so micrometers should feel that. Or you could use anything with very good straightness, like the side of a measuring caliper, to check whether light passes between this straight object and the bushings when they are pressed together.