Torque specs

[User2123]

I made this PDF to have all the typically needed specs in one place. The manual is not very good at listing them all in one place so here it is. Just print in landscape and trim to around 6" height and it will glue right inside the lid of the included toolbox.

 

[AL_V]

Nice, but where did you find the countershaft bolt torque?
I'm not saying you're wrong, but I couldn't find it so I emailed Stark and they told me 80 Nm.

 

[User2123]

I'm glad you pointed this out. I actually could not find that spec anywhere and resorted to my Ktm 300 spec just to give myself a ballpark figure. Thanks for catching this and correcting it. There are also some contradictory specs like on the chain tension. It says to use the 3 finger rule but also says the range is 25-32mm. I don't know about you but my 3 fingers are way bigger than 1.25". Anyways, I am pretty sure that was the only one on there I had to take a guess at. I'll change it to 80Nm. There are obviously a bunch of other specs I left out from the manual as they aren't typical things you have to work on and can be hand torqued pretty safely.

 

[AL_V]

BTW, I just changed my countershaft sprocket, and it was "loctited" at the factory.
Wouldn't hurt to put A LITTLE heat on it when removing.

 

[User2123]

Yeah I had to use my impact gun and hold the brake. Was on tight for sure!

 

[ReVolter]

I'm glad you pointed this out. I actually could not find that spec anywhere and resorted to my Ktm 300 spec just to give myself a ballpark figure. Thanks for catching this and correcting it. There are also some contradictory specs like on the chain tension. It says to use the 3 finger rule but also says the range is 25-32mm. I don't know about you but my 3 fingers are way bigger than 1.25". Anyways, I am pretty sure that was the only one on there I had to take a guess at. I'll change it to 80Nm. There are obviously a bunch of other specs I left out from the manual as they aren't typical things you have to work on and can be hand torqued pretty safely.

Here is a 3D model of the Varg chain slack gauge I made. Makes it easy to adjust the chain to specifications. Pull the chain tight by pushing down the bottom, and slide the gauge along the swing arm until the reference (0 point) touches. Release the chain and then tighten the chain until it goes over the second level but not over the third level.

 

[AL_V]

Here is a 3D model of the Varg chain slack gauge I made. Makes it easy to adjust the chain to specifications. Pull the chain tight by pushing down the bottom, and slide the gauge along the swing arm until the reference (0 point) touches. Release the chain and then tighten the chain until it goes over the second level but not over the third level.

Thank you for sharing the file, I converted it to a step file so I could open it in my 3d software.
Could you provide a photo of it on the bike, as I'm a little confused by your instructions.
Thanks!

 

[ReVolter]

Thank you for sharing the file, I converted it to a step file so I could open it in my 3d software.
Could you provide a photo of it on the bike, as I'm a little confused by your instructions.
Thanks!

View attachment 12174

It goes where your "3 fingers" would go, except it is more precise with the Reference level:

 

[AL_V]

It goes where your "3 fingers" would go, except it is more precise with the Reference level:

View attachment 12179

Thanks for the photo, it is worth a thousand words!
Not trying to be annoying, but why do you need the “reference” step?
You basically have a “GO” and a “NO GO,” isn’t that all you need?

 

[ReVolter]

The reference level represents 0 chain deflection, that tells the gauge is in the right place. The first platform above that is the minimum chain slack, and the top platform is the maximum chain slack.

Once you set the slack correctly the bike runs quieter with no chain slap.

 

[AL_V]

The reference level represents 0 chain deflection, that tells the gauge is in the right place. The first platform above that is the minimum chain slack, and the top platform is the maximum chain slack.

Once you set the slack correctly the bike runs quieter with no chain slap.

Got it, thanks.

 

[User2123]

Isn't the measurement supposed to be right at the end of the plastic chain guide? I know they have the sprocket a lot closer to the swingarm pivot but that 32mm makes me super nervous. I guess from always adjusting to KTM's specs. It is also weird the Stark manual says to use the 3 finger method which I can only assume there aren't many people who's 3 fingers add up to 32mm. That's more like 2.5" compared to their 1.25". I'm confused on that one. Either way I would always air on the loose side. And if one was really paranoid they could disconnect the shock and check the tension that way.