I used the 160 and 120 wide Conti Attack SM2 and they are a very tight fit. I suspect the chain will hit the tyre when it slaps around a bit. Heard from SM guys that's ''normal''?
I've always kept a 4,25" rim to avoid it but other people I know used 5", had that issue with slicks and said that they didn't feel anything weird while leaning despite visible damage to those tyres.
Some people use sliders like this, often home made:
Chain Block - Protect your rear wheel!
Others install some kind of shims between the hub of the wheel and the sprocket and either:
- accept that the chain is misaligned,
or
- they offset the front sprocket, too; sometimes in some bikes if it's installed flipped it will be offset. I don't know whether this would significantly wear the bearings of the countershaft quicker.
Others set the spokes so that the rim moves a little bit to the right, accepting a slightly misaligned wheel.
The 120 is just too wide to fit in between the fork protectors. They however are cheap so i will be modifing them.
I think I've read about other people who had to do the same with the Varg.
I suspect that that front brake will experience brake fading. On my SM I have a proper 4 pistons caliper, but during my first trackdays, years ago, I had that problem and I solved it by using fluids having higher boiling point, stil DOT4 since that was required in my case. Specifically, I use the Motul RBF 660 fluid.
Anyways, it's typical that beginners brake hard even lifting the rear wheel but then they are less precise in keeping their line; if you have a front brake that can't be used so aggressively it may be a good reason to brake less extremely and carry more speed through corners, possibly being faster on the laptime.
Still, for safety reasons, if you have brake fading, I think that you should improve the braking system until you solve the problem.