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Thanks much for these! Do you know of any editable ones online, to create our own map diagrams?

Wow - could not possibly disagree more! My Alta's throttle map/'curve' #1 feels weak from 0 to WOT, while #4 is stronger everywhere and way better for me and my riding style in every case. Not sure what's meant by "sensitive", I think in terms of RW torque/hp at specific throttle-rotation...

+1. Alta's solution was to add what I call a 'clutch-up burst' right before WOT in mode 4, where the power increased a lot with little additional throttle rotation. I've never been a clutch-guy, but it felt a lot like a clutch dump to me so maybe lots of racers would prefer it. Just another...

I've been too - the more I look, the more I wonder. :) In addition to the pad stuff you mentioned, it also looks like there may be 3 small burns? near the top row's 3 RH pad locations. Idk.

I realize, but figured the chances of all switch leads shearing off cleanly while leaving the front of the housing intact were pretty small. Probably best to replace the whole thing anyway since it's available, the threads are surely roached from the main screws ripping out..

It looks to me like the switch PCB was reinstalled backwards, with the switches facing in rather than out towards the buttons.

The one I use is Power (Hp) = Torque (lbf•ft) • rpm / 5252 (no period). Just tried it on a 2020 KTM 450 SX-F dyno chart, worked perfectly.

Try flat-head Torx screws - the tapered under-head sections should center into the rotor holes for a more even clamp & (hopefully) improved hole alignment.

If it were me I'd call all four Stark dealers in the NL and ask about getting both new & used parts from them - you might at least save shipping on the new ones, idk.. Afaik if a a gray Varg was ordered and a walk-in customer wants white, they swap the plastics and keep the originals. There...

I've used clean queen-size bed sheets for years. With the LH bike side next to a wall and F wheel turned hard L into the wall, It fit with an even 1/2" floor clearance and from @ 270° view angle looked better than any cover I've owned.

It looks like there are spacers between the ears and the DP caliper? If these are the issue. aluminumspacers.com might be able to help.

Great news! I've gotten used to having the spare wheelset, so cool it will work on the Varg too.

Wow - that should give some serious 1-finger LHRB power!

It's too bad the stock Spal fan specs or even size are unavailable (searched here, nothing). A higher quality ball-bearing / lower-current-draw unit w/roughly the same cfm is a good idea imo.

Apparently it's 2.4GHz. I'd wear it as high as possible, away from metal and as out in the open as possible. Stuffed into a boot near a giant radiating metal mass is exactly where you don't want it, regardless of how it's worked in the past.

Below are frame grabs from the Stark teardown video, showing pretty much everything associated with the sprocket side of the countershaft. I'm wondering just how much of the small amount of gearbox oil dribbles down behind the reduction gear, finds its way past the dual bearings, then...

I think in this situation it's much better to use watts, so... your app indicates 3 amps charge current to the 360V battery, or 1080 watts. This should require maybe 1200 watts from the 120VAC line (120 x 10 amps). If you were able to use 6A charge current before, that would've delivered 2160...

The one I rode (80hp, pavement only) was exactly the opposite - in mode 3, anything above 1/4 throttle below 60?mph and I would've looped right out. This was a very early bike though, from what I'm reading online it seems the newer bikes aren't like this.

OK, thanks - the online info is kinda vague. I'm unclear on how the other ('pass-thru'?) mode is significantly different from a Y-cable.

So... neither one of these outputs 240VAC by itself (i.e., a single unit) in UPS mode, correct?