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Over the course of 4.9 years (1,781 days), my brand-new Alta's SOC dropped from 100% to 50% (@ .03% per day). I wouldn't worry too much about 2 months. :)

The one I rode (all clean/dry pavement) was definitely 80hp, way more powerful than my Alta in map 4. I noticed that "100%" settings (power and regen) on that Varg varied from mode to mode (all at 80hp nominal). 100% power was definitely not 80hp in mode 1, and 100% regen in mode 3 felt much...

Those look amazing! Great job!

I can't remember where I heard this - might have been the NY Stark dealer I was talking to - but apparently an Alpha SM rider was encountering similar power limiting after repeated 80hp non-track use, and had been told it was due to 'inappropriate use of the 80hp feature' or some such (no idea...

I used the stand dozens of times yesterday & this AM, still going strong on the initial charge (rated for 150 lifts per charge; anyone buying one will have to weigh that 'limitation' against the benefits of 150 effortless and infinitely controllable lifts). None of the precision lifts I did...

Here it is (video at bottom of link) - definitely the best MC stand I've ever owned or used. It's well-made and solid internally, has thick rubber feet that are super stable even on my uneven garage floor, operates easily by hand or foot, and can lift 440lbs 1mm at a time if needed. Right now...

Here are the specs for the Alta standard charger that came with my bike (288xx variant). Page 1 pretty much says it all.

Zero motorcycles with modular batteries - especially the fleet bikes (police, military, etc.) have long been capable of offboard charging, probably using the Zero quick charger. It seems to me that most any MC-type battery should be able to do the same with the proper charger-output and data...

I replaced my MXR's Regina non-O-ring chain at 2900 mi (master link failed at @ 2K mi.). Imo this was a lightweight OEM-type chain, OK at best. I wanted to reduce anti-squat & make the front end feel lighter, so I put on a Renthal 292-520-12P front sprocket and Moose M5254-480 or 1211-0672...

There are no other markings anywhere on the connector (numbers, letters, etc.)? If you could find a small-ID thick / soft O-ring that could be stretched and released between the locking collar and body, that might replace the missing spring tension (more than one might be needed) - or a very...

That page I posted used to look like the other Factory Edition wheel pages, with a bunch of options etc - now it's just a stock photo & phone number. :( I should've saved the page instead of the link; I clearly remember a different pic and solid-Ti hub/spoke/rim options, and also wondering...

Remind them how important wheel upgrades can be. :D

Excellent job! Wish I had my Stark to use it with :)

It might be enough to just cut/grind a wide slot in the wear-mark area, allowing the retainer to slide in / rotate more and reduce return tension - could always hack it all off if it failed.

Is the cylinder a separate removable 'cup' held on by the pivot bolt, or an extension of the pivot center/bearing/etc? You might also try a spacer & longer screw for the spring retainer, clunky I know. An auto-retracting kickstand would've screwed me up every single one of my last 50+ rides...

A few weeks back I finally test-rode a Varg, at BigBoyzToys in Marlboro NY. The one I rode was #303, a fully broken-in demo. The ride was street-only, as I wanted to see what the 80hp map was like from 0 to 100% with no dirt in the mix (good decision, it turned out), and test the brakes as...

Try connecting the resistor in series (daisy-chain) with the plate light, then connect the far ends of both to where you connected the plate light before. If you still have problems, you'll need a larger-ohm-value resistor, and if that gets too hot in use you may need a higher wattage rating as...

No - this is a 120VAC unit, as I was unable to find a 240VAC one with enough power capability or the proper adaptors to be usable with the Stark. I figured I'd post it anyway as it will work for the majority of US Varg owners.

As an alternative... on my WP forks I loosen the fork-guard screws and pull the guards away from the upper tubes - sometimes pretty hard - then re-tighten. It may take several tries and possibly a little heat, but I've always ended up with zero contact so far.