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+1 on these too, thanks

+1 and then some!, along with many others here so willing to share their knowledge and expertise.

The only Harley I ever considered...

Cool! I'll be replacing my -01 shock with an -02 & then revalving the old one, looking for pretty much the same thing as you. I had good luck with my AER revalve (reduced RD , near-zero CD, Teflon-suspension + LikeWater), I'll try and do a write-up on it & the shock work at some point.

+1, absolutely. I ended up shaving off about .010" of the rib nearest the foot's top end so it went in straight, then heated the upper foot as much as I dared (heat gun on low) and pushed down hard on the arm with the foot against a concrete floor-wall junction. I had to heat it a few times...

For the kickstand folks... the Trail Tech 5925-FOOT below arrived today, and fits the MXR kickstand leg just like the OEM foot. $3.25 + $10.70 shipping. :(

Looks nice! I'd buy one whenever you get around to making them. I just looked at mine - didn't realize how much leverage the MC/pedal mount had on that lower frame boss.

+1

Thanks! Step 11 is the least fun, by far - be careful not to pull the bike over on yourself. :(

I think this kickstand foot may work - I have one on order to try. Trail Tech used to have a silver foot that looked identical to the one on my MXR, but I don't see it at their site anymore.

I'm definitely interested. My E-mail is RAGEray@aol.com

If I needed more flywheel effect, I'd try a 4 x 80mm (or whatever) machined tungsten disk on the motor shaft, along with a custom aluminum spacer from Cometic Gaskets to space out the cover as needed. Tungsten is strong and super heavy, the added motor rpm & gear reduction will increase the...

For your situation, maybe something like a Trail Tech Vapor might be a good solution.

I guess I'm one of the few that really likes my MXR's kickstand. After years of replacing/lengthening/shortening/bending/welding/refooting kickstands and then manhandling the bike to get one wheel slightly off the ground, I love how (on pavement or hard ground) I can easily lift/spin either...

I'll have pad & pencil ready to get baselines - thanks for the suggestion though. I realize my results will not be perfect - maybe not even close - but at this point anything is better than what I have (nothing).

OK, thanks for that info. I've got my Kill-A-Watt on the AC outlet & will check what's going on in real time next charge.

Yes. My understanding was that a blinking-red LED on the standard charger meant charging in progress, and a blinking green light meant charge complete (which I got from this forum, the manual mentions none of this).

Wow - guess that info just wasn't considered important enough for the manual. My battery's cells haven't balanced themselves ever, since day one. :(

+1 How does one know when the balancing phase is complete? The manual states "When complete, disconnect the charger cords, and store in a safe area." For reference, my Zero's battery LEDs continue to indicate balancing after (sometimes long after) the main charging indication on the display...

OK... so I guess something else was used to set up the Erzberg bikes?