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The best exercise for me to learn lofting the front has been to try on loose & slippery ground. If the grip is so poor you then can't just throttle it up. You have to use weight transfer from front to back... which is what you should be doing anyway.

I was talking about this component with a company that CNCs bike parts. They do the design in NZ and the manufacture in China, so pretty competitive on cost. For the complex shape, two-sided setup, and low numbers, they were thinking this part would be about that price to manufacture and sell...

As expected, Racetorx are now on to it with a CNC'd aluminium replacement for the right side motor cover. Looks beefy, costs HOLY CRAP two hundred and twenty quid. Err, I think I'm just going to try to not hit rocks.

Wait, what? What's a dealer markup? I'm in NZ and the price is the price. I can order direct for NZ$17,900 or go to the dealer and pay $17,900. How can it be different?

Batteries are getting cheaper every year. Electric vehicles are getting cheaper every year. This is a good thing.

I have added haul straps - just from rope and webbing that I had to hand. And next is a gripper seat, coz when the stock seat is covered in mud then it gets pretty slick.

What we want is something more impact resistant than the current design. Thicker stronger metal is going to be more impact resistant. More resiliant materials like rubber or HDPE are also going to be more impact resistant. Move coverage over the gasket line or motor housing is going to provide...

Definitely. The cover is an easy replacement. The housing isn't. If the cover had a lip that projected forward then that would do a reasonable job of protecting the gasket from impacts. If the cover had an overlap that wrapped around the housing then that would be even better as it would...

Well spotted. Hard to tell from the video but that looks like a stuck-on plastic scratch cover.

Tyre choice depends so much on what terrain you're riding and how long you want it to last. Round here I'm riding enduro in dank slippery forest. Everyone uses the Mitas XT754 soft gummy with Tubliss at 3 psi. That's unbeatable for our ground but it'll last maybe five minutes on a hard MX track.

Carbon exhausts are large curved parts with the impact in line with the radius of the curve. That's a geometry that helps it to be good and strong. A carbon cover over this casting is going to help, sure, but this would be an impact on the thin edge of a stuck-on part. I don't see the current...

Yeah, the stick-on carbon parts are mostly for looks. Fine if that's someone's thing, but that's not my thing. The bike's generally covered in so much mud that you can't tell what it looks like. I just don't want it to break when I bang it on rocks.

Any links to those? Enduro Hog do a plastic stick-on cover. That'll stop scratches but not rocks. Carbon Parts have done a forged carbon cover but they don't seem to sell them yet. I doubt that a thin cover is going to be stiff enough to help much in an impact like this. Racetorx do a CNC'd...

Front wheel kicked up a rock, cracked the right motor cover and bruised my big toe. The toe will fix itself; the cover won't. So, anyone making a stronger replacement cover yet? The cover is just cast magnesium. It's thin and pretty exposed. I think I'm not the only one to break this part? I'm...

I have also been using that bag. I'm finding that it's ok on the back but I'm using straps, not the bungees that it came with. But I do want to store about half that much behind the number plate.

I am looking for a spot on the Stark to stash some tools, a tow strap, maybe an emergency jacket. Behind the number plate seems like an option but it's tricky to access and to mount a bag in there. Has anyone tried this and found a good solution? This spot in here:

65 hours on Tech 7s with the titanium footpegs. I also use Steg Pegz so my boots are pretty much always in the same position on the footpegs. There's starting to be a mark on the soles but nothing like the wear you're getting.

The battery is the most sensitive part. Here's the datasheet. That simply says: That should be fine to ride in the cold but charge indoors.

Owners manual just says 600 ml of "glycol based coolant". So pretty much anything will do.

Borderline. I'm tracking my rides. On hardpack I'm getting 60-65 km, so 37-41 miles. Then again, the hardpack round here tends to be slippery so I'm running low tyre pressures, like 6 psi. Tyre pressure definitely makes a difference to range.