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There are no aftermarket front chain sliders yet, so protect and keep the one that you have for now.

Here is the brake tip mod: Brake Mod and Foot Pegs Here is the on/off feeling brake pedal fix: Fasst Company rear brake return spring on an Alta And here is the sticky brake pedal fix: Fasst Company rear brake return spring on an Alta

That is 1,005 cranking Amps. Most car batteries have about 900 cranking amps for 30 seconds. I need 200-400A continuously for at least an hour.

Alta told me the MX fork spring rate. I should dig up that email. They made a mistake in units on one of the springs, so the information could be 2% off.

No, I didn't look into it. I think I would need at least 150-200 Amps more for this setup to work with a Rapid charger. The stock battery would have to triple in size. Which brings me to combination A2.5, which I am currently pursuing.

This whole thread could be summarizes in a 3x3 decision matrix. The choices are: Alternators: A) Stock B) Upgrade Stock, or add an independent Second C) Upgrade Stock and add a Second in parallel Batteries: 1) None 2) Just enough to help the alternator(s) 3) Enough to run independently of...

I do not have my Rapid charger yet, so I was only able to experiment with the Standard charger. That one supposedly draw only 12A at 220V.

Oh... changing oil on 4CS can be easy if you know what you are doing. It is not an open cartridge fork, but you still can change oil without major disassembly. Just need to burp that fork after you add new oil and before you set the level. Google the procedure. There is a manual burping...

The stock MX spring is actually 63N. I saw it written on the spring only later. The recommended oil height for MX is 65mm. Your 81mm is still very reasonable.

This is a bit too sexual and risque for most Americans. LOL!

Yep. This pretty much sums it up. Compared to the existing off-the-shelf battery options the Tesla Powerwall and the Alta's spare battery pack look like screaming deals. The stock alternator is rated at 180A. When I was asking for 110A from it, it worked fine. When I started asking for 220A...

I've had a 3000W 12-110V modified sine wave inverter in my van for the last 3 years. Yes, it can charge the Redshift from 110V from zero to full. But only if it is 110V. It made very little difference at the track though because you normally need 5 hours to charge at that rate. I even tried...

This 800 Ah of batteries will weigh 500 lbs in AGM, or will cost $7,500 in LiFePO4. This is too heavy and bulky, or a bit less bulky but costs way too much money. The stock alternator is quite capable. It can run the van's engine and the Standard charger from 110VAC simultaneously...

Well... I am not planning to install a second alternator in my van at this time, and my current stock alternator is only 12V. The Battle Born battery company said I can use the stock alternator to charge their batteries if I install this LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager gadget: I appreciate...

Most of the time I will be using shore power (at home) and my 240VAV inverter/charger. But I want to be able to use the van's alternator as well. I might have to buy an additional controller for that. It is not too late for me to exchange my inverter/charger for a 48VDC system. But I wonder...

60/260 means 60 N/mm spring rate and 260mm length. Divide by 9.81 to get kg/mm. This unit conversion is simple, but everyone gets it wrong at times, including myself. The error is only 2%, so most people not not know they made a calculation error.

I remember that fork top-out clunk. It went away immediately after the revalve and never came back. I even forgot about it, until you brought it up, LOL. Regardless of what your stock front springs are, you can upgrade to the MX spring specs, and you should be much better when trail riding...

For the first five minutes -- yes. When you will be going 5-10mph over the limit and start seeing cars on your rear wheel, passing you on both sides, you will quickly realize that your speedometer is wrong. Then you will start adding 15-20mph to its reading, or whatever is necessary to not get...

The non-O-ring chains are best left to road racers. For dirt, I do not think a non-O-ring chain offers any reduction in friction after it gets packed with sand.