2008 YZ450F Electric Conversion

[Ryan Snow]

Hi All,
First of all, I need to give a huge shout out and A HUGE thank you! to @DonCox for his work on these conversions and build threads that he posts. I have experience in building batteries, working with Motors, ESC's, VESC's, other controllers and electronics in general, and had been thinking about building an electric dirt bike for awhile, then after stumbling onto this forum, and studying Dons work on his conversions are what inspired me to finally go for it!

I am using the Votol EM260S and QS138 70H V3 (latest "updated version") for this build, along with 2 - 20s8p Molicel P42A batteries connected in parallel with 2 ANT BMS 130A for charge only (20s16P total). This has been a very fun build, and i have enjoyed it thoroughly and learned a lot on this journey! On my next build and for anyone considering doing a conversion like this, please take my advise and go with a newer style (split upper frame) chassis for the donor bike. The battery was by far the most challenging part for me, and it wasn't necessarily the battery build itself, it was cramming as much battery as i could into what would fit in this 08 chassis, if i could have just built a tall, rectangular shaped battery that fit vertically between the upper chassis would have been so much easier, and IMO looks much cleaner as well.

All in all, I am very happy with how it turned out, and it absolutely rips!!

 

[bayodome]

Very nice and clean! Great work! Yes, Don is quickly reaching legend status. He also helped me a ton on my conversion and others as well. I like where you mounted the display. I opted to go without one, but seeing yours is making me rethink that decision!

And yeah, twin-spar perimeter frame is waaay easier, but it looks like you figured it out. What are your battery specs/ah?

 

[Ryan Snow]

Very nice and clean! Great work! Yes, Don is quickly reaching legend status. He also helped me a ton on my conversion and others as well. I like where you mounted the display. I opted to go without one, but seeing yours is making me rethink that decision!

And yeah, twin-spar perimeter frame is waaay easier, but it looks like you figured it out. What are your battery specs/ah?

Thank you bayodome! I do like having the display, it has to be at the correct angle to see very well in the sunlight though, I’m considering some other display options. I will post if I decide to go another route for it. I’d like for something that showed the amp usage more accurately, but for the money for these displays, you get more than your moneys worth I would say for sure!

Battery comes out to about 66AH (2 - 33.3AH).

***Edit*** I just realized I can’t do math.
2 batteries, each with 160 Molicel P42A cells would be 33.6AH per battery. So if I actually am getting 4.2 out of each cell would be 67.2AH.

 

[DonCox]

I have tried 4 different displays, 3 are made for the EM ( Votol) controllers. The DKD One-Lin display, that kind of reminds me of Christmas lights, with the current display. Too much light, and not visable in daylight. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806263071614.html
Then I got a DN7 and it is on the KTM that I am selling right now. It works much better in Daylight , but no current reporting, but it shows all the Controller codes without a PC. This display is a little bigger. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805185654072.html The 3rd DIsplay is the DKD 061 TFT. A little smaller, but great display, good in both day and night, a little to get it wired to work, and they must adjust it for your tire size and KM/ MPH at the factory. It shows the Controller codes too, but no current. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804039267575.htm
The one I use the most for simplicity is a Current /Volt meter. Accurate voltage is all I really need to know, but the current is neat to know. When I have my go pro on my chest I can get readings at times when I can't look at it. The meter isn't waterproof, so I have to carefully enclose them. They are easy to read at anytime day or night, and you must watch your Voltage for range. It uses a Hall loop for current sensing, and seems to be pretty accurate. DC 0-300V Battery Monitor Meter Capacity Voltage Ammeter Coulometer +Hall Sensor | eBay It is an Ebay item, but it is coming from China 2-3 weeks delivery. I use the 400A model. And I found if you get the 200A model, the current meter goes to FFF when it goes over 200A. I have seen FFF on my 400A meter a couple of times, meaning I was over 400A (up hill on the street front wheel going up... o-shit).
But the voltage is of primary importance. We went on a 20 mile single track ride yesterday ( my battery is 50AH Molicel 20S12P) I got back with a good 5 miles of electrons still in the bucket. About 71V. Here is the trail map. It was still recording on the trailer at the end , so it says 23 miles. Actually the phone was on me towing the bike. Lake Havasu City single track on the south side.

 

[Ryan Snow]

I have tried 4 different displays, 3 are made for the EM ( Votol) controllers. The DKD One-Lin display, that kind of reminds me of Christmas lights, with the current display. Too much light, and not visable in daylight. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806263071614.html
Then I got a DN7 and it is on the KTM that I am selling right now. It works much better in Daylight , but no current reporting, but it shows all the Controller codes without a PC. This display is a little bigger. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805185654072.html The 3rd DIsplay is the DKD 061 TFT. A little smaller, but great display, good in both day and night, a little to get it wired to work, and they must adjust it for your tire size and KM/ MPH at the factory. It shows the Controller codes too, but no current. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804039267575.htm
The one I use the most for simplicity is a Current /Volt meter. Accurate voltage is all I really need to know, but the current is neat to know. When I have my go pro on my chest I can get readings at times when I can't look at it. The meter isn't waterproof, so I have to carefully enclose them. They are easy to read at anytime day or night, and you must watch your Voltage for range. It uses a Hall loop for current sensing, and seems to be pretty accurate. DC 0-300V Battery Monitor Meter Capacity Voltage Ammeter Coulometer +Hall Sensor | eBay It is an Ebay item, but it is coming from China 2-3 weeks delivery. I use the 400A model. And I found if you get the 200A model, the current meter goes to FFF when it goes over 200A. I have seen FFF on my 400A meter a couple of times, meaning I was over 400A (up hill on the street front wheel going up... o-shit).
But the voltage is of primary importance. We went on a 20 mile single track ride yesterday ( my battery is 50AH Molicel 20S12P) I got back with a good 5 miles of electrons still in the bucket. About 71V. Here is the trail map. It was still recording on the trailer at the end , so it says 23 miles. Actually the phone was on me towing the bike. Lake Havasu City single track on the south side.

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Thanks for the info Don! I really like the simplicity of the amp meter you have on the 14 YZ. Been trying to find a good place to mount something like this on my bike. I was thinking of something that would go to 600 amps and using a shunt. Or possibly a smart shunt that I can send/ see the data on my phone. Have you tried anything out there with shunt instead of the hall sensor?

 

[ProperHooligan]

Thanks for the info Don! I really like the simplicity of the amp meter you have on the 14 YZ. Been trying to find a good place to mount something like this on my bike. I was thinking of something that would go to 600 amps and using a shunt. Or possibly a smart shunt that I can send/ see the data on my phone. Have you tried anything out there with shunt instead of the hall sensor?

I use a cycle analyst with a remote shunt.

CA3-HC

V3.0 Cycle Analyst, with Ring Terminals for Remote Shunt. Full Product Information Page

ebikes.ca

It’s made for diy e-bikes but it’s got a ton of great features applicable for e motos. I just sized the shunt for ~500A and made the adjustments in the cycle analyst. Works great.
Miles, speed, ah, wh/mi, pack cycles, ride time, regen, etc

 

[Ryan Snow]

I use a cycle analyst with a remote shunt.

CA3-HC

V3.0 Cycle Analyst, with Ring Terminals for Remote Shunt. Full Product Information Page

ebikes.ca

It’s made for diy e-bikes but it’s got a ton of great features applicable for e motos. I just sized the shunt for ~500A and made the adjustments in the cycle analyst. Works great.
Miles, speed, ah, wh/mi, pack cycles, ride time, regen, etc

Thanks ProperHooligan. I will check into this.

 

[Ryan Snow]

I use a cycle analyst with a remote shunt.

CA3-HC

V3.0 Cycle Analyst, with Ring Terminals for Remote Shunt. Full Product Information Page

ebikes.ca

It’s made for diy e-bikes but it’s got a ton of great features applicable for e motos. I just sized the shunt for ~500A and made the adjustments in the cycle analyst. Works great.
Miles, speed, ah, wh/mi, pack cycles, ride time, regen, etc

Thanks @ProperHooligan I will check into this.

It looks like it does a lot. What features are you using? Are you using this as your throttle input then out to the controller, or just the amp, watts, etc., and battery monitoring options?