heikki
New member
- Likes
- 1
- Location
- Kankaanpää, Finland
My first post here, and not even sure if it should be on Builds -section or here 
Just got a hint to come the this forum to check if anyone can help.
So I have a build where I'm installing Stark motor to a small Suzuki moped from the 80's. Initially with a 1,5hp 50cc engine
I bought a Varg motor with VCU and wiring. According to the seller they are from a running bike. Then I got a battery from another person. He told the battery is broken and he's received another one on warranty. I work with Tesla batteries (repair them) so I though I could take a look inside the Varg battery and see if I could fix that too.
Before I started to open the battery I tested my setup. I had bought all the remaining electrical components form Stark (including the Android phone) and connected everything together. All I get is the red light on the power switch for couple of seconds. I've tried all the tricks I've found online to reboot the system (including holding the power button for a while, re-plugging the battery cables several times etc...) without any luck.
So I opened the pack and found four cells are shorted and completely empty. The pack is 100S4P split into two halves. Total of 400 21700 cells. There's a BMS board on both halves of the pack that monitors the voltages and balances the pack. I though the empty cells might prevent the pack from starting so I bypassed those and made a temporary fix to replace those dead cells with some Tesla cells I had and balanced the voltage to match the other cells of the pack.
I was hoping this would do the trick but I was no lucky, still getting the red light. Now I believe the battery may be in some sort of fault state and would require manual reset, perhaps with some service/diagnostic tool - similar to what car manufacturers use. Also Tesla packs need to be cleared from some latching alerts after repairing them.
I heard some people here have some background information on how these packs have been designed and perhaps could confirm if my assumption is correct? Also I suppose there are no tools available to diagnose and reset the pack/clear the possible alerts.
In my build I need to build my own pack with fewer cells to make them fit on the small moped frame. I was hoping I could have used the Stark BMS and VCU since they are the only ones that I know are able to control the Stark inverter.
Both halves have their own BMS board
Dead, shorted cells.
Cells are glued to the case from the negative end of the cell. This will cool down the cells when the air cools the battery case. I assume the battery might overheat on a long ride under heavy load.
Just got a hint to come the this forum to check if anyone can help.So I have a build where I'm installing Stark motor to a small Suzuki moped from the 80's. Initially with a 1,5hp 50cc engine
I bought a Varg motor with VCU and wiring. According to the seller they are from a running bike. Then I got a battery from another person. He told the battery is broken and he's received another one on warranty. I work with Tesla batteries (repair them) so I though I could take a look inside the Varg battery and see if I could fix that too.
Before I started to open the battery I tested my setup. I had bought all the remaining electrical components form Stark (including the Android phone) and connected everything together. All I get is the red light on the power switch for couple of seconds. I've tried all the tricks I've found online to reboot the system (including holding the power button for a while, re-plugging the battery cables several times etc...) without any luck.
So I opened the pack and found four cells are shorted and completely empty. The pack is 100S4P split into two halves. Total of 400 21700 cells. There's a BMS board on both halves of the pack that monitors the voltages and balances the pack. I though the empty cells might prevent the pack from starting so I bypassed those and made a temporary fix to replace those dead cells with some Tesla cells I had and balanced the voltage to match the other cells of the pack.
I was hoping this would do the trick but I was no lucky, still getting the red light. Now I believe the battery may be in some sort of fault state and would require manual reset, perhaps with some service/diagnostic tool - similar to what car manufacturers use. Also Tesla packs need to be cleared from some latching alerts after repairing them.
I heard some people here have some background information on how these packs have been designed and perhaps could confirm if my assumption is correct? Also I suppose there are no tools available to diagnose and reset the pack/clear the possible alerts.
In my build I need to build my own pack with fewer cells to make them fit on the small moped frame. I was hoping I could have used the Stark BMS and VCU since they are the only ones that I know are able to control the Stark inverter.
Both halves have their own BMS board
Dead, shorted cells.
Cells are glued to the case from the negative end of the cell. This will cool down the cells when the air cools the battery case. I assume the battery might overheat on a long ride under heavy load.
