Electric RMZ

[riverin]

Today I went for a trail ride with the bike to if everything is go to go for track day tomorow. So the range of the bike is 35km (1h30) with a full charge. Tomorow im going to a deep sand track and will be filming with my gopro.

 

[bayodome]

Today I went for a trail ride with the bike to if everything is go to go for track day tomorow. So the range of the bike is 35km (1h30) with a full charge. Tomorow im going to a deep sand track and will be filming with my gopro.

Awesome! Make sure you get someone to take some footage of the bike in action from the side of the track too.

 

[DonCox]

So @riverin have you rebuilt you bike yet? Did you get CSI Canada to figure out the cause of the problem with the batteries? Were you able to salvage a lot of the parts?
This home building battery maker would like to figure out as many clues before anyone else has a similar problem. We are playing with dynamite. There is a whole bunch of energy stored in that box. I just finished a Pit Bike project (in this forum KX110 Electric Pit Bike) and used the same cells you used, Monicel 21700 P42, but 20S8P, and a QS 138 70H V3 motor. and the VOTOL EM150SP controller. I'm getting a solid 14-15KW out of it and it rips. ( weighs 175lbs)
There is a company in Ireland, Mighte-MX, that is building YZ250 bike with the QS138 70H V3 motor and the BAC8000 controller at about 400 AMP. I am thinking of trying the same motor and a Far Driver controller of the 400A and above in a YZ frame, using the QS V3 motor. He says the motor lives??? but weight is low Motor gear reduction 28.5lbs, the controller 6-7 lbs, and battery 35-40 lbs, Try to get in at 200lbs with full battery, haha. I wonder how much 3.6KW of electrons weighs ????

 

[DonCox]

We bought the BAC8000 evaluation kit, so I have access. Programming has a steep learning curve and can be catastrophic if done wrong. I'm pulling 8000 watts from my stock Sur-Ron battery. The performance is amazing. My intent was to sell programed controllers, which I might still. But it has to be programmed for a very specific application. There is some development with the EggRider display that could help in the future. Anyway, I'm picking up a 2017 CRF250R today that is missing an engine. QS138 70H V3 (geared version) on order. More to come...

I just installed this motor , the V3 in a KX100 ( in this forum KX100 Electric Pit Bike) with their controller VOTOL EM-150SP, programmed by ElectroandCompany.co, they do it for a few hundred buck.. It worked so sweet out of the box. A little over 210A 's.
Mighte in Ireland (MightE MX – MightE) builds this Mighte-MX motorcycle, on a YZ250 with the same V3 motor and your BAC8000. I emailed him and he says it handles 400A, and the motor lives??? A rolling YZ250 donor bike weighs about 140lbs. V3 motor 28.5lbs, controller 10lbs, 400A battery about 40lbs 220lbs approx bike.
This is so easy to build with the V3 motor, already has the gear reduction. Mighte has a 520 Sprocket for the V3 motor.

 

[riverin]

So @riverin have you rebuilt you bike yet? Did you get CSI Canada to figure out the cause of the problem with the batteries? Were you able to salvage a lot of the parts?
This home building battery maker would like to figure out as many clues before anyone else has a similar problem. We are playing with dynamite. There is a whole bunch of energy stored in that box. I just finished a Pit Bike project (in this forum KX110 Electric Pit Bike) and used the same cells you used, Monicel 21700 P42, but 20S8P, and a QS 138 70H V3 motor. and the VOTOL EM150SP controller. I'm getting a solid 14-15KW out of it and it rips. ( weighs 175lbs)
There is a company in Ireland, Mighte-MX, that is building YZ250 bike with the QS138 70H V3 motor and the BAC8000 controller at about 400 AMP. I am thinking of trying the same motor and a Far Driver controller of the 400A and above in a YZ frame, using the QS V3 motor. He says the motor lives??? but weight is low Motor gear reduction 28.5lbs, the controller 6-7 lbs, and battery 35-40 lbs, Try to get in at 200lbs with full battery, haha. I wonder how much 3.6KW of electrons weighs ????

Well the insurance company was a pain in the ass to deal with and not because it was a battery fire( The did not care). We were finaly able to money from them 3 weeks ago.
The battery went into thermal runaway because I had bypassed the bms in discharge thinking that the low voltage cut-off from the controller would protect it but I did not think about the fact that if one of the cell get too low but not the others the controller would still the right voltage. so I killed a cell by discharging it way too low.
The controller and the motor are still alive and works. I did not trust the frame of the bike after all that heat so im not rebuilding it.
However, I started accumulating parts for a new project. here is the list of parts I will be using.

controller: Fardriver 961800( rated at 800 battery amp and 1600 phase amp) not sure if they are true spec we will see.
Motor: Qs 180 mid drive QS told me it can handle 1000 phase amp. ( preodered not yet in production. I have printed a model of it to start desinging.
Baterry: Thinking about building the same type of battery since it was performing well.
Fork: WP aer48
Shock: alta or ktm wp shock
frame: I will be making my own frame based on the geometry of the rmz frame. Not sure yet if I use aluminium or chromoly.
I Just bought a 2021 crf250r this summer and I would say the rmz was as fast. But I miss the power from my 350sxf so I want that kind of power from this next bike build.
I could start a new build thread for this new bike if you are interested.

Also MY battery pack was 3.7kwh and weighted 46 lbs

 

[DonCox]

Interesting that you are looking at the Far Driver controller. I am too. My Kelly is trash. just too many other project going right now. The guys at Electro and Company have had some experience with the smaller Far Drivers. Let's keep in touch on what we do and find. I was looking at the ND721200 for my ME1302. ElectroandCompany.com programmed the controller in my KX100 and it is super. Electro and Company can also get the Far Driver controllers. Call them and talk to Austin. I am not sure what he knows how to program them yet, but I bet he will.

 

[DonCox]

@riverin, On some of my earlier batteries, I did what you did, used the BMS for Charging only, but the last one I used the ANT Smart BMS, and used the BMS for both Charge and Discharge. I used the 300A model from ElectroandCompany and for it's size it does an amazing job. but I don't know if it will handle 300A discharge. On my use, the controller is only supposed to push out 200A, but I know it goes over that, because I got ShortCircuitProtect at 210A. The Logs in the ANT are really good, and are recorded with date and time. I set the "ShortCircuitProtect" to 350A and no more errors. I can't send 300A's since my controller won't go much over 210A.
But ElectroandCompany does also sell a 400A ANT BMS, and they aren't too expensive and still a small size. Go to their web site. I am going to retrofit the ANT Smart BMS's into the 3 packs I have in my Yamaha with the ME1302 motor. Each pack put out just short of 200A. You can so easily look at all parts of the cells and the pack, and any errors.
Just my 2 cents...
Don

 

[riverin]

The problem with the ant bms is that even the 400 amp one is not enought. On the rmz I was draining 450 amp from the battery and on the next one I plan on draining around 600 to 700 amp. And I already have the fardriver controller I am waiting on tool to get this project going.

 

[testus191]

The problem with the ant bms is that even the 400 amp one is not enought. On the rmz I was draining 450 amp from the battery and on the next one I plan on draining around 600 to 700 amp. And I already have the fardriver controller I am waiting on tool to get this project going.

I've been curious about the FarDriver, interested to see how that turns out, keep us posted please.

 

[Mark911]

I blew up two 400 plus amp ANT BMSs on the Yamaha conversion. I was pulling over 500 amps. I bypassed it and wired it so that it'll still disconnect the charger if it sees a high P-group.

 

[riverin]

I blew up two 400 plus amp ANT BMSs on the Yamaha conversion. I was pulling over 500 amps. I bypassed it and wired it so that it'll still disconnect the charger if it sees a high P-group.

This is how my bms was wired too. But the problem is if one p-group get out of balance the bms will not disconnect the battery. This is what happened to my battery.

 

[Bob Casper]

Question? If you bypass the discharge on the bms, can you moniter the battery voltage and watch to make sure it doesn't drop below 60v under max draw? This is on a 72v battery.

 

[riverin]

Question? If you bypass the disccharge on the bms, can you moniter the battery voltage and watch to make sure it doesn't drop below 60v under max draw? This is on a 72v battery.

You can monitor the voltage with the app on the phone.

 

[Bob Casper]

I have a moniter on the triple clamps to keep an eye on too.