I appreciate all your input! Some good points in there for sure.
I really cant compare my beta‘s 4t or the KTM’s 2t engine temps as obviously any IC powerplant is surely going to run hotter for all the more than obvious reasons. However I’m just spitballing saying i want to get the temps down 10-20 degrees as at the 130-140 im currently seeing I can barely even touch the outside cases without burning myself. I’d just like to be able to keep it within a range to where its more along the lines of being warm-hot but not to the point to where it actually can burn my leg when wearing shorts or whatever. I plan to install 4-5 different temp probes all around the bike that will give me real time (as I’m riding with air moving/flowing) temperature data from all the components i have the probes temporarily attached to. Those numbers will be my baseline to truly know if all my future plans truly do make a difference and or maybe even in some cases i could definitely possibly cause something to heat up even more as I’m not claiming to be an electrical engineer or aerodynamicist. I fully expect to probably do a bit of both throughout my journey of trying to reach more acceptable operating temperatures. I will certainly be completely transparent on both my success and failures along the journey.
I can totally say i would agree with you that the I’m very sure Stark engineers selected the appropriate bearings/bushings and accessories etc to be able to handle and support whatever the bikes set operating temps are aimed to be within as well as whatever margins all there testing revealed to be the best range. I actually did email Stark in what those temps are and what temps are within there optimum operating range for the best overall performance as well as what should be the highest temp that can be sustained before you start possibly contributing to shortening the power systems multiple components life in terms of looking in the long term data. But of course even though i sent that email repeatedly 3 times i got zero response, which i definitely was expecting.
Also, I am just making the assumption that reduced heat within the motor/controller/powertrain/gearbox etc “should” make for any overall happier and longer lasting electric operating system as a whole. It’s my understanding that the main enemy of sustainably long lasting electrical components is the ability to have a very good handle on how much heat they are constantly having to work within as well as limiting the amount of time spent above what are considered to be the maximum safe continuous temperatures. Obviously lowering it to an extreme would be even possibly detrimental due to there needing to be like a base operating temperature that all the grease/oil/lubricants need to see in order to even begin to work as they are designed to and to provide the friction reducing action they were created to combat. However i don’t see 10-20 degrees as being out of that range of normal operation.
After riding in mud, there has never been any there, it stays in the fender area. Being at the bottom, dirt will fall out.That is something i think i will do to my SM setup. In MX/enduro it will become a mess i think. Along with removing my bashplate from now on.
I do have an extra panel so i could just swap it when doing SM
These are small not to intrusive things that i guess will make the biggest difference.
Stark doesn't know everything, this is a brand new model now being sorted in the real world. I can assure you that my fan comes on less and for shorter times.So You are telling me you are smarter than Starks Engineers? The bike is very, very well built, I live in central Florida ride 4-5 hours, no overheat in 98 degrees temp. ( track and enduro) The only thing that sometimes locks up is the phone, because it gets to hot from the sun. That happens to any phone if you leave it out in the sun. May be you can get a radiator for the phone.![]()
With my 15/45 i can push it on average to around 60-65 miles with 15’ish % left if I’m riding relatively chill, but of course it will always very every ride based how aggressive you are on the throttle. If I’m taking it generally easy with just some fun little wheelies and hard pulls from a stop at a traffic light every now and again thats when im able to get 60’ish miles and my fan is definitely coming on but i definitely wouldn’t say excessively. Now on the contrary if i go out to really blow off some steam with no F#@!$ given about range and just want to cut up and have some fun knowing i fully intend to go for a shorter 20-30 min ride and probably cover 20-30 miles the fan is almost constantly on the entire time and I can burn through about 50% of my battery with ease. It’s during these types of rides where having the bike able to better mitigate the heat and just do a better job at not getting so heat soaked.VeryStark doesn't know everything, this is a brand new model now being sorted in the real world. I can assure you that my fan comes on less and for shorter times.
They also totally dropped the ball on gearing, with everyone's biggest concern being range. My 15/42 is awesome and has seriously increased range, as has running zero regen parking brake. Ignore it if you like.
Let the radiator breatheWith my 15/45 i can push it on average to around 60-65 miles with 15’ish % left if I’m riding relatively chill, but of course it will always very every ride based how aggressive you are on the throttle. If I’m taking it generally easy with just some fun little wheelies and hard pulls from a stop at a traffic light every now and again thats when im able to get 60’ish miles and my fan is definitely coming on but i definitely wouldn’t say excessively. Now on the contrary if i go out to really blow off some steam with no F#@!$ given about range and just want to cut up and have some fun knowing i fully intend to go for a shorter 20-30 min ride and probably cover 20-30 miles the fan is almost constantly on the entire time and I can burn through about 50% of my battery with ease. It’s during these types of rides where having the bike able to better mitigate the heat and just do a better job at not getting so heat soaked.
As long as your riding not like a total a$$ clown and are realistic of what you are asking the bike to do, it does a decent job at managing heat. It’s just during those times of going a little beyond that I would like to have some tasteful mods done to allow me to not allow the bike to reach the safety power system limiting mode.
Also the biggest factor to the overall effectiveness of the stock cooling system obviously is FL’s crazy ambient summer temps. As we get closer and closer to November/December/January/February I’m positive I will have zero complaints about how the bike operates in its completely OEM form. If the ambient temps were 70-75F degrees as a daily high the bike wouldnt need a single thing. It’s just the other 8 months of the year when its more or less 85-99F that is what is causing me to want to make some tastefu/helpful mods to help aid in the cooling efficiency department. Ive had my EX since the first week of July and immediately had already wanted to come up with some mods to help it stay just a bit cooler during these crazy high ambient temps.
After i get all my average component baseline temperatures from taking samples/data from at least a span of about 2-3 weeks trying my best to make sure the average ambient temperature stays within an acceptable small margin, as well as notating the times of day along with the length of ride and what kind of riding was done during that specific outing. These are all specific key data points I’m tracking snd will end up hopefully allowing me to know if these things I am planning to test are either improving or degrading the bike’s ability to manage the heat any better from its original OEM form.
What do you mean with zero regen parking brake?Stark doesn't know everything, this is a brand new model now being sorted in the real world. I can assure you that my fan comes on less and for shorter times.
They also totally dropped the ball on gearing, with everyone's biggest concern being range. My 15/42 is awesome and has seriously increased range, as has running zero regen parking brake. Ignore it if you like.
The regen is a momentum killer. Push it not running and you will see there’s plenty of drag. It takes power to overcome the motor braking. Use the brakes.What do you mean with zero regen parking brake?
You should just use the temperature probes the bike already has built in, there are a ton (12 in the battery, 9 across the motor/inverter, and various other individual components which report temp/humidity) and all of its accessible via third-party tools.I appreciate all your input! Some good points in there for sure.
I really cant compare my beta‘s 4t or the KTM’s 2t engine temps as obviously any IC powerplant is surely going to run hotter for all the more than obvious reasons. However I’m just spitballing saying i want to get the temps down 10-20 degrees as at the 130-140 im currently seeing I can barely even touch the outside cases without burning myself. I’d just like to be able to keep it within a range to where its more along the lines of being warm-hot but not to the point to where it actually can burn my leg when wearing shorts or whatever. I plan to install 4-5 different temp probes all around the bike that will give me real time (as I’m riding with air moving/flowing) temperature data from all the components i have the probes temporarily attached to. Those numbers will be my baseline to truly know if all my future plans truly do make a difference and or maybe even in some cases i could definitely possibly cause something to heat up even more as I’m not claiming to be an electrical engineer or aerodynamicist. I fully expect to probably do a bit of both throughout my journey of trying to reach more acceptable operating temperatures. I will certainly be completely transparent on both my success and failures along the journey.
I can totally say i would agree with you that the I’m very sure Stark engineers selected the appropriate bearings/bushings and accessories etc to be able to handle and support whatever the bikes set operating temps are aimed to be within as well as whatever margins all there testing revealed to be the best range. I actually did email Stark in what those temps are and what temps are within there optimum operating range for the best overall performance as well as what should be the highest temp that can be sustained before you start possibly contributing to shortening the power systems multiple components life in terms of looking in the long term data. But of course even though i sent that email repeatedly 3 times i got zero response, which i definitely was expecting.
Also, I am just making the assumption that reduced heat within the motor/controller/powertrain/gearbox etc “should” make for any overall happier and longer lasting electric operating system as a whole. It’s my understanding that the main enemy of sustainably long lasting electrical components is the ability to have a very good handle on how much heat they are constantly having to work within as well as limiting the amount of time spent above what are considered to be the maximum safe continuous temperatures. Obviously lowering it to an extreme would be even possibly detrimental due to there needing to be like a base operating temperature that all the grease/oil/lubricants need to see in order to even begin to work as they are designed to and to provide the friction reducing action they were created to combat. However i don’t see 10-20 degrees as being out of that range of normal operation.