Request: Front axle photos

[ablock]

Hi all. I put a new front wheel on my SM (had Warp 9 build a 19" with the SM rotor) and followed the instructions when reinstalling (tighten right pinch bolts; tighten axle nut; loosen right pinch bolts; flex fork legs; squeeze brakes; tighten pinch bolts; loosen and retighten axle nut). This left me with the right side spacer about 1/4" from the right fork leg, but the left spacer up against the left fork leg. Does that sound right?

Would love to see photos from of spacer/leg gaps on both sides of front wheel if someone is willing to take some.

Thanks!

/afb

 

[TCMB371]

Procedure should be:

(Assuming wheel, axle and axle nut are off the bike, spacers are attached to the wheel, and the pinch bolts are loose).

1. Expand front brake pad gap to allow room for rotor.
2. Slide wheel inbetween forks, fitting the rotor inbetween the pads
3. Slide axle in.
4. Begin threading on the axle nut until the whole axle starts spinning.
5. Tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
6. Torque the axle nut to spec
7. Tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg.
8. Loosen the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
9. Find fork happy place on axle either by freewheeling the front wheel and grabbing the brake a few times, or put the bike on the ground and compress the forks a few times.
10. Tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.

 

[ablock]

Procedure should be:

(Assuming wheel, axle and axle nut are off the bike, spacers are attached to the wheel, and the pinch bolts are loose).

1. Expand front brake pad gap to allow room for rotor.
2. Slide wheel inbetween forks, fitting the rotor inbetween the pads
3. Slide axle in.
4. Begin threading on the axle nut until the whole axle starts spinning.
5. Tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
6. Torque the axle nut to spec
7. Tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg.
8. Loosen the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
9. Find fork happy place on axle either by freewheeling the front wheel and grabbing the brake a few times, or put the bike on the ground and compress the forks a few times.
10. Tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.

Okay, I might have left out that step 7. Will try it again.

 

[snydes]

If you look closely you can see the approximate gap between the right side spacer and fork leg. I’d call it approximately 1/4”.

 

[ablock]

If you look closely you can see the approximate gap between the right side spacer and fork leg. I’d call it approximately 1/4”.

Thanks, thats exactly what mine looks like. Why does the wheel not drift back and forth along the axle in the 1/4" gap?

 

[snydes]

Thanks, thats exactly what mine looks like. Why does the wheel not drift back and forth along the axle in the 1/4" gap?

That portion of the axle has a shoulder that seats against the spacer preventing any movement. Then of course the pinch bolts on the fork leg prevent that portion from moving.

 

[Rashid510]

Rmr also there is a difference between the EX and SM front axle compared to the EXR/MXR front axle.

 

[TCMB371]

The brake side is meant to be flush up against the left fork lugs, so that the brake rotor lines up with the caliper properly. The right side fork lug is meant to float on the axle when loose. All modern dirtbikes are like this. Step 8,9, and 10 that i listed above are critical in making sure that the right fork leg rests perpendicular on the axle, so as to prevent binding of the fork bushings. On some of my older bikes, when i'm doing step 9 I sometimes have to jam a flat head screwdriver in the fork lug opening to make sure the axle can float freely and the fork can find its happy place easily. Applying a tiny dab of grease on that clamping area of the axle also helps the fork slide freely on the axle when loose.

 

[ablock]

The brake side is meant to be flush up against the left fork lugs, so that the brake rotor lines up with the caliper...

Thanks, that’s super helpful.

 

[ablock]

Rmr also there is a difference between the EX and SM front axle compared to the EXR/MXR front axle.

Hm I have an EX wheel on an SM so I wonder...

 

[zootie]

Procedure should be:

(Assuming wheel, axle and axle nut are off the bike, spacers are attached to the wheel, and the pinch bolts are loose).

1. Expand front brake pad gap to allow room for rotor.
2. Slide wheel inbetween forks, fitting the rotor inbetween the pads
3. Slide axle in.
4. Begin threading on the axle nut until the whole axle starts spinning.
5. Tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
6. Torque the axle nut to spec
7. Tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg.
8. Loosen the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
9. Find fork happy place on axle either by freewheeling the front wheel and grabbing the brake a few times, or put the bike on the ground and compress the forks a few times.
10. Tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg.

I seem to have a slight wobble in the front axle....do I need to contact Warp 9 to get bearings for it? It was just noticed a week ago. I'm a slow rider but wonder if this is a sketchy situation.

 

[snydes]

I seem to have a slight wobble in the front axle....do I need to contact Warp 9 to get bearings for it? It was just noticed a week ago. I'm a slow rider but wonder if this is a sketchy situation.

If you happen to have bearings that are bad enough to cause a wobble then definitely don’t ride it until they are replaced. I would not go through Warp 9 for bearings and seals, there are much better quality components available. I would highly recommend this kit;
WSB-KIT-F023-KTM KTM HUSQVARNA
The spacers will not work but the bearings and seals are top shelf stuff. Just reuse the old spacers, or if you have an MXR, this member had some new ones made and anodized.
Front suspension converting from 48CS To 48AER

 

[zootie]

If you happen to have bearings that are bad enough to cause a wobble then definitely don’t ride it until they are replaced. I would not go through Warp 9 for bearings and seals, there are much better quality components available. I would highly recommend this kit;
WSB-KIT-F023-KTM KTM HUSQVARNA
The spacers will not work but the bearings and seals are top shelf stuff. Just reuse the old spacers, or if you have an MXR, this member had some new ones made and anodized.
Front suspension converting from 48CS To 48AER

Thank you

 

[zootie]

Thank you