Varg - Gear Oil Change

[Tim Sharp]

Stark is sending me a new power unit, so I removed the original unit. Just because I was curious, I decided that I would try to remove the oil drain plug. Because I had the power unit out of the bike, I was able to clearly see the plug. The inside of the T30 hole had some of the yellow torque paint inside of it. Some industries call this paint tamper proof sealant. When I tried to install the T30 socket, it did not want to easily go in. So I gave it a little tap with a plastic mallet. It did go in, but when I removed the socket, I could see that the hard paint was still preventing the socket from fully engaging the plug. So I used a sharp pick to remove all signs of paint. Now the socket was actually fully engaged in the plug. I was then easily able to remove the plug.
The reason I wanted to share this information is that I think a lot of these "stripping" issues may be related to the T30 tool not fully engaging the plug.
I was also able to retorque the plug to 15nm with no issues.
I hope this helps someone out.

 

[Chaconne]

Stark is sending me a new power unit, so I removed the original unit. Just because I was curious, I decided that I would try to remove the oil drain plug. Because I had the power unit out of the bike, I was able to clearly see the plug. The inside of the T30 hole had some of the yellow torque paint inside of it. Some industries call this paint tamper proof sealant. When I tried to install the T30 socket, it did not want to easily go in. So I gave it a little tap with a plastic mallet. It did go in, but when I removed the socket, I could see that the hard paint was still preventing the socket from fully engaging the plug. So I used a sharp pick to remove all signs of paint. Now the socket was actually fully engaged in the plug. I was then easily able to remove the plug.
The reason I wanted to share this information is that I think a lot of these "stripping" issues may be related to the T30 tool not fully engaging the plug.
I was also able to retorque the plug to 15nm with no issues.
I hope this helps someone out.

The machining on that plug is not good as well and the aluminum is really soft. That combined with different metal crush washer(copper), plus heat/cool cycle, plus what you have found increase the chances for failure. I have had to chisel more than one out already.

I reached out to Stark asking them to improve the machining or the material since I need to replace the gear oil often. There is also a post around here for a better solution but it likely voids the warranty if you use that (it is stainless steel I believe). There have been reports of water intrusion through the breather and many of the areas I ride in our mud/swampy so washes and new oil are a must.

 

[Tim Sharp]

The machining on that plug is not good as well and the aluminum is really soft. That combined with different metal crush washer(copper), plus heat/cool cycle, plus what you have found increase the chances for failure. I have had to chisel more than one out already.

I reached out to Stark asking them to improve the machining or the material since I need to replace the gear oil often. There is also a post around here for a better solution but it likely voids the warranty if you use that (it is stainless steel I believe). There have been reports of water intrusion through the breather and many of the areas I ride in our mud/swampy so washes and new oil are a must.

I wonder if the 15nm is too much? Anybody else running less torque?

 

[fully]

Re Milky oil colour.
I just did my first charge after 10 hours.
The oil looked like new oil.
There was a few very small metal shavings on the plug magnet.

Also the bolt came out fairly easy. I did tap the torx 30 into the head and had no slippage. I used an extension too. Possibly people have the socket at a slight angle if they don't use the extension which may lead to the stripping?

 

[Torqu3]

I forgot to mention, my bike seemed to have less gear noise with fresh mobile 75w90 gear oil. There was some metallic goop on the magnet that I cleaned off. Not surprised for new gears and parts though.

 

[markchange]

This gear oil looks like it might be a bit...

 

[Tim Sharp]

Gen2 power unit just arrived. New drain plug. Stark is listening.

 

[Tim Sharp]

Here

 

[Foss]

Yea send photos of that unit. Curious to see what changed.

Especially the breather line. And curious to see what the inside of the gear box looks like but I know that is over reaching lol.

Also the swing arm bolt has a washer in it. I was worried this was an ingress point for water.

 

[Foss]

What is the overall weight? Does the gen1 feel heavier than the gen2?

 

[Tim Sharp]

Yea send photos of that unit. Curious to see what changed.

Especially the breather line. And curious to see what the inside of the gear box looks like but I know that is over reaching lol.

Also the swing arm bolt has a washer in it. I was worried this was an ingress point for water.

The breather port looks the same. My vent line does go up and over the radiator though. Vin number ends 3917. I typically over grease all of those areas, to prevent water from getting inside. I also keep the pressure washer away from such areas.

 

[Tim Sharp]

Gen 2 breather. Obviously plugged off for shipping. Looks the same.

 

[Foss]

I suggest adding some blue loctite on the breather valve stem. Also be sure to add some added lube around the swing arm bolt so you don’t have to re do this later.

 

[Tim Sharp]

What is the overall weight? Does the gen1 feel heavier than the gen2?

I don't have a scale, but I would imagine the Gen 2 would be slightly heavier, only because it now includes the charging port. So I will actually be removing the subframe mounted charging port. The Gen 2 conversion kit also includes a new wire harness, which will make the wiring cleaner.

 

[Foss]

Oh wow interesting, yea the top cover looks different as well

 

[Tim Sharp]

Charge port.

 

[Foss]

With the top cover altered it seems there will be a lot of space between the battery and power unit.

This was one struggle I had with mounting the battery back to the frame. It almost to me felt like I had little to no room to reinstall the battery.

 

[Tim Sharp]

I believe removing the charger port from the subframe should help with air flow to the radiator too. It kinda blocks the natural air flow from the left side of the bike.

 

[Foss]

I believe removing the charger port from the subframe should help with air flow to the radiator too. It kinda blocks the natural air flow from the left side of the bike.

View attachment 11583

This photo subframe retsins the charging port also?? Unless this has to be deleted once reinstalled?

You mind send a front shot of the housing changes?

 

[Foss]

With the conversion luckily they made the head and the motor separate. One could just swap the head on this power unit and retain the gearbox.