i exactly dont know, we both have handbrake, on a slightly incline climb you notice the bike slowly going backwards, you have to push with all your force to stop it and that shouldn't be the case on an enduro bike. And if it is more steep you cant stop the wheel at all
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- Thread starter Beagle
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Erwin P
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My hand rear brake is quite weak as wel however that might just be the concept of braking with a hand on a small disc.
big 600cc scooters have rear handbrake and they stop A LOT better, and they weight 250kg like the BMW C 650 GT
One thing to consider is that part of the mechanical advantage is given by the ratio between the radius of the rotor and the radius of the wheel. A Ø 220 mm on a 15" wheel will generate more braking torque than the same rotor on a 18" wheel (you should also add the height of the tyre, but you get the idea).
In this thread someone mentioned a 240 mm kit but apparently it's not plug and play and Stark says it will void the warranty.
I agree that the LHRB needs a lot of effort to lock the wheel, but for motocross I like it, it's controllable and after all I seldom want to lock the wheel in a MX track.
If you do want to brake really hard however it's a different story. After all, by looking at them it seems to me that a foot operated master cylinder has similar bore size and lever ratio but the force of your forefoot can easily be way higher than the one of your one or two fingers without feeling so tiring.
One thing that can help, also suggested by MX insructors, is to install the master cylinder inwards on the handlebar: it will increase the lever ratio since you will be pulling farther from the fulcrum.
