KX100 Electric Pit Bike

DonCox · Sep 17, 2022

That breaker might work, I haven't used one. With this high current, I would use the most simply and reliable method. A visible Fuse and a Manual Switch. I recommended the other DC to DC converter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GNTC1D7/?tag=sce0f-20) , but you could use the Relay in your kit to power the DC to DC converter, and have the same result. The manual switch also serves as removeable switch ( look at the pictures.)The la.st picture shows the Fuse

LeeRoy · May 24, 2023

DonCox said:
That is a perfect donor. 2001-2013 is the newer plastics. Do you have the title on the frame. I made the street legal light kit for mine. Yea check with me to see if I am home and come on out here to try the bikes, they are so fun. I don't know how old you are to recognize these 2 guys riding the electrics. They have been around the motorcycle world for a long time. Both world Champions

The second bike is a 2017 KTM I did with the QS motor.
You know of any more KX's like yours? I have an older one, but I need 2 more with papered frames. Actually any one from 1991 to 2013 are the perfect ones to modify. I convert the 1991 to 2000 to newer plastics, using KLX110 tank plastics, since those early ones only had radiator shrouds on the right side.

Can you tell me more about the KLX 110 tank plastics? Do you need the tank and the outer shell with the shrouds or just the outer shell?

DonCox · May 24, 2023

LeeRoy said:
Can you tell me more about the KLX 110 tank plastics? Do you need the tank and the outer shell with the shrouds or just the outer shell?

Just the outer shell and do these few mods to it. A little plastic welding...

DonCox · May 31, 2023

I have 2 frames KX85 2003, partial roller and a roller. Both frames have been modified to accept the QS138 70H V3 motor and the EM150 controller.
1.)The one has frame, rear suspension and shock and rear wheel. $400 + shipping no title IMG4277,4278,4279
2.)The other has small wheel front and rear wheel, early front forks, brakes rear suspension and shock and Brakes. $600 + shipping, no title. IMG4272,4274,4275
3.)I also have a 1995 KX80 with a California title, new style front forks, new tank (2001-2008 style), frame has been adapted to accept 2001 - 2008 Plastics, small wheel Front and rear wheel , rear shock and suspension, brakes. $800 + shipping (I could put the mounts for the QS motor and EM150 controller for $200 more) IMG4282,4283,4284,4285
4.) I also have a 1992 KX80 frame bare. No title. But I can put the mounts in for the motor and controller. $300 + shipping IMG4286,4287,,4289
5 I have a 2003 YZ250 2 stroke frame, $100 + shipping, or I can put the qs motor mounts in it, and EM260 controller. $300 + shipping for all that. IMG1349,1351
The motor and controller kits come with all the wiring, so it is a bolt together kit. You just have to have a battery made. We can do that too, just contact me

DonCox · Apr 19, 2025

DonCox said:
I built this for a friend in about 6-7 weeks. It started life as a 1991 KX80, was converted to big wheels some where along the line. My friend put new tires on it and had the suspension gone thru. Gave it to me. Now after he get it back, he is going to ride it a bit and the tear it down and powder coat the frame after all the work.
@Mark911 challenged me to a PIT BIKE race, but I think the owner is going to take it too soon, he is excited.
View attachment 7721
After some research I found Electro and Company (ElectroBraap) for the hardware and controller programming. They have bolt on kits for other pit bikes, but not for this model bike, so I had to build my own mounts and battery. They have a beautiful kits for 2002-2018 YZ85, and another kit for 2002 - 2016 KTM 65 SX. But they sell motor-controller-wiring - programming kits that work great.
We purchased a QS 138 70H V3 motor Controller kit, with there (Electro) programming, a wiring harness, with throttle and switches. I comes with a Chinese display that is cute, but not real useful. This kit made the conversion sweet and much simpler.
I'll put a few pics in here, but I took a lot and videoed a lot. If you want all of them, EM me and I can find a repository for all of them or a CD or USB stick. I also have the templates for the motor mounts and battery box. I am going to get some of these water-jetted or Plasma cut, and the battery box case we can talk about it f you are interested. I chose Molicel 21700 cells in a 20S8P config. The motor /controller only draws 210-250A, but for longer ride time I went to the 8S config. I used an ANT 300A Smart BMS. Man that is sweet also. I got most everything from ElectroandCompany.com, except the cells and battery cell holding brackets.
The Bike weighs 175lbs. the motor gear reduction weighs 28.5lbs, complete battery 30lbs. It is so fun to hop on and go, but in Warp mode (15KW, 20HP) the front wheel isn't on the ground very much. It has 3 speeds. ElectroandCompany.com added their programming and it is so plug and play. Th ANT BMS is so smooth and you can look at all the Battery vitals.
Cost is in the range of $3000 to 4000 depending on buying a battery or building a battery. (Not including the donor bike) Motor / controller $1300, Battery parts $1500 ( that's including a 15A charger. Electroand Company gets somewhere near $2300-2500 for there same size SLR3.2 with charger, and that is a good price, knowing how much work goes into one. Theirs wouldn't fit in my frame.) And a motor mounting kit and battery box maybe $300 to 400.
The bike didn't look symmetrical with only one radiator shroud, so I found a 2020 KLX110 bike had a mock radiator shroud. So I got one and it fit with a little work. Definitely looks more contemporary.

View attachment 7701

View attachment 7702

View attachment 7703

View attachment 7704

View attachment 7705

View attachment 7706

View attachment 7707

View attachment 7708

View attachment 7709

View attachment 7711

View attachment 7712

View attachment 7713

View attachment 7714

View attachment 7715

View attachment 7716

View attachment 7717

View attachment 7718

View attachment 7719

To anyone reading about this build, it is now about 3 1/2 years later, and the owner of the first KX80 here that I built this for never got the frame powder coated, but was out riding it last weekend. It is still running great with all the original components, except the controller. He went to the Noisy Cricket controller because he liked the user features of it, and the other 4 bike he converted all went to the same controller. He let another rider ride this bike for a while and the new rider loved it. These KX 80, 85, and 100’s make great electric conversions. I have made and or helped make 10 or more of these models.
There is one that I built more recently that is for sale on Facebook

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

D_Daly · 2025-07-06T01:41:53-0700

Hi All not sure if this thread is still Active but I’ve being looking into building converting a dirt bike over here in Ireland for a while now, I’ve being waiting on a decent donor bike to pop up and found this the other day. Appears to be a 90’s kx 100 with no engine for a couple hundred euro.. Would this be a good platform to build on?

Would love to make something like what Don has being making & was hoping to get some help with the battery, was Dons battery case built or bought? I have also seemed to find a lot of people use the Samsung Q30 cells, are these the best or is there a better option? Any insight on building one would be amazing. Cheers

DonCox · 2025-07-06T11:11:03-0700

Hello Mr. D_Daly, welcome to the Forum. Yes your bike works perfectly for this type of build. Go to post #11 in the article, (Your post is post #26), the first picture in that post is a "90's model that I build. A bit different in the motor mounts and a simpler shape for the battery. The motor has to sit real low in the frame, and on the model I welded tabs onto the frame for the motor mounts, and ground fin off the motor to get it lower i=on the frame. Do you weld, or can you get it done? This makes it much easier. Also the controller mounts need to be welded on. I have found the best motor for this setup is a QS138 70H V3, with a Votol EM150SP/2, and the battery that we can fit in it is a 20S8P. Using the Samsung 50S cells you can get a save riding distance of 30 miles.
To fit the battery it is tight, and we cut the top mount off the motor. I will include a few pictures, ask any other questions. I have a few used but good EM150SP/2 controllers, I could load a good tune I use for this size bike and sell it to you for $200 and shipping costs, or you could buy it from Aliexpress too The motor (you should get the new upgraded one) you can get from Aliexpress, or I could sell you one of those also too for $500 plus shipping. I could cut the top mount off for you, but you would need to grind the fins off the bottom of the motor to fit your frame.
The battery Amorge said they could build it for me, and here are some approximate prices as of about 6 months ago. They put them in a nice metal case and should fit really nice,
Here are some pictures of some of the stuff I mentioned here in the article. I can also build a wiring harness for you with basic switches ( like Electro and Co., including a 12V system for lights, or make it with wiring to make it street legal. Blinker, horn a headlight(hi and lo) and taillight, and stoplight.
Frame Tabs image is the frame after Powder coating, 1438 is the controller mounted, 1468 is a closer view of the motor mounts. 1470 is the bottom modifications to the bottom of the motor, 1694 is the finished bike.
Amorge is info@amorge.com
Aliexpress motor is https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809147163546.html
Aliexpress controller is https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809048017451.html Make sure it has the single 3 row connector, this is the newest version

Ask for any info you want and I'll try and answer.