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Oh shit call an ambulance!!! :eek:

They say you are never too old to learn new tricks... ...but, I may be too old to try new tricks. :eek: Looks cool, but not sure I want to try one. I don't heal as fast as I used too and the learning curve might be too high for me.

Standard charger on 120 is about 4 hours empty to full, but on 240 it is about 2 hours empty to full. On 240 it is 2.7kw for the standard charger vs 3.6kw for the rapid charger.

I had the same issue on my EX. I ended up having to change the bulb. I don't think it is a voltage issue, rather a impedance/resistance issue. If the bulb draws to much, or too little, current the bike kills the circuit. Here is the post on my issues.

Here is info on the rear. My post is for an EX though, not sure the difference on the rear between an EX and an EXR.

There may be some efficiency/range gains from using a hub motor. No chain or gear box. You are also talking pavement vs dirt which would give more range. Probably doesn't add up to double the range with 40% less energy storage, but it is something. The bigger issue with range is probably us...

Jetsons would be cool. If I ever had to had sound on an EV I wanted it to be Jetsons or Flubber. :LOL:

Typical political move, lets fix something that isn't broken. :eek:

According to the manual the bike also protects the battery from charging when it is too cold so heat, or lack of it, is definitely a factor.

The bikes may currently request more current, say 12A which would be 4.2kw, but because the charger is only 3.3kw that is all you get. If the bike request more current than the charger is able to provide, the charger is the limit. If the charger can provide more current than the bike request...

This is what the Electric Conversions web site says about CAN communication for the standard charger(PFC). I am assuming it is the same for the UHF, but it could be different. "The charger expects to receive every second a message from the BMS with CAN ID 1806E5F4 and 8-byte data with the...

You mean I have to do maintenance? I guess I missed that part of ownership. :ricky:

It's a new high tech slider bearing. Roller bearings are so yesterday. You two need to get with the times. Glad you are getting it fixed and hopefully Silas will have a better race next year.

The A pack doesn't seem to have the Code 36 issue that some of the R packs have, but the R packs will deliver more current/power so "better" is probably dependent on your riding style and how you use the bike. If you need, and can use, the additional acceleration/power available from a R pack...

My understanding is that both the A pack and the R pack are the same size, 5.8kw, but that the R pack because of the batteries in it can deliver more amps and hence more power. I haven't heard that the R pack has more or less usable power. I assumed they were the same, but could easily be...

Specs in the book call for 80ml (pretty sure on this), but I regularly put in 120ml and have had no problems. I use a 60ml syringe to put the lube in so I just shove 2 full syringes in and call it good.

It would give a place that you could check vin numbers if you were buying a bike to see the history and if it was stolen, maybe? Probably especially important if you don't have a title. I think I have seen MX bikes for sale here with a certificate of manufacture/origin or something like that...

I ended up unscrewing the charge port from the "delta wing" so I could then lift the "delta wing" and shrouds off as one piece. Once I had them off I could put pressure on the brass inserts through the "delta wing" plastic with vice grips and unscrew them. There are 6-10 small allen or Torx...

I have a little over 5,000 miles on my bike and have done almost nothing except tires and a little gear lube. If something Alta proprietary breaks, there seems to be enough parts and knowledge through this site to fix everything. I haven't heard of a bike being permanently broken at this...