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The Alta front end feels a bit heavy to me as-is, so moving farther back would work better for me (I did this on my Zero using big bars / tilted risers / taller seat, it made a big difference in my comfort level and a lighter-feeling front end). I measured the MXR's weight distribution this...

Thanks for that link - I have similar ones on one of my Hondas. For me it was more about pullback and moving the grips rearward than height. I've been looking around online for 45° bolt-on risers (SW Motech's Barbacks look pretty good, if they have ones that fit).

Here's the Magura bars (OEM behind, near wall): It took a bit of searching to find "medium" bars like these. Most of the ones I saw were either very similar to the stockers, or ATV-style longhorns like I have on my Zero.

Those specs are outer-edge-to-outer edge, so subtract 25mm for ctr-ctr. The OEM bars are definitely too low for me. I just put on a set of Magura TX bars (higher/ more pullback/a bit narrower than OEM). They feel great in the garage, looking forward to the first ride.

Yes - the MXR bars are Neken model R00182 (817mm wide, 112mm rise, 70mm pullback).

Maybe not, but they'll certainly notice stopping short of corner after corner until they adjust their riding style to suit the motorcycle's deceleration characteristics. If they're a 2t guy like I am, after they adapt to the Alta they'll likely then find themselves overshooting corners on the...

Oh, OK. Hey, have you looked into a custom 12V battery (taller w/same footprint as OEM)? I almost had one made by a local battery shop for my trailer generator, as the stock pan was pretty small. One rated for @ 1000 cold cranking amps should easily be able to provide the extra current needed...

I think it's more like 300A. :) The Alta fast charger draws 16A at 240V, almost 3.9kW; this would require at least 270A at 14.4V alternator out, or 325A at 12V (before losses). It's like there's this @ 1500W threshold: below it things are fairly easy to implement at a reasonable price, above...

I'm pretty much running out of ideas. It seems the only options are big alternators or big bucks, with no guarantees either way. Any thoughts about why this happened? Given your long-term success with the present inverter, it seems like analyzing & possibly fixing this problem would be worth...

So you've actually done this? I thought everything was still in the planning stages at this point.

Not sure about my aggression level, but I have noticed the Alta regen is very different from Zero's. The regen on my Alta seems to get stronger the more the bike slows, almost like auto-braking. The Zero normal regen is just a linear drag effect (adjustable), and there's also adjustable...

I absolutely agree with both of these - in fact, at this point I'd suggest not doing anything to your van's OEM electrical system at all, and just going with a standalone / charge-at-home 48V (or whatever) battery + 48V (or whatever) inverter setup, physically mounted in the van but 100%...

Those sound like pretty nice chargers! I'm used to the weenie 116V Zero units. I was thinking about injecting the 380V after / instead of the rectifier, probably using an SPDT contactor or similar.

+1 ! It would be cool to have maybe a 380V? pack, so the inverter could be eliminated completely and the Alta charging circuit driven direct (don't know where you'd find a suitable 380V charger, though). Definitely not Electronics 101 projects. :)

Well... you could power a 48V inverter with four 12V 200aH batteries in series, which would give well over 4kW for 2 hours (more than enough for one 240V rapid charge). You'd still need to charge these batteries, but I'm sure there are a number of 48V chargers available (a lot of smaller EV's...

It really is too bad that a schematic of the Alta charger isn't available - it would be so easy to see if a high-voltage battery pack could feed the charger circuits directly, instead of converting 12VDC to 240VAC to 350VDC with all the associated problems of each conversion.

Well, the 39 ohm value is just a guess on my part; you could also get 43 / 47 / 56 ohm 5W resistors (they're cheap) and see what the minimum keep-alive current actually is - that's what I'd do, it's good info to have. Maybe only a watt or less is required.

Connecting a 39 ohm 5 watt resistor across the 12V aux power will draw a continuous 3.7W and may keep the circuit live (if not, a 33 ohm 10W draws 4.7W). The next thing I'd do would be to make sure it doesn't keep the aux 12V live with the key off (definitely worth an extra 10 sec. with the...

A quick note about the fast charger case - there's a round air vent next to the handle center that opens CCW. When I first checked my charger out at HVMC it was impossible to open - I was about to ask for a small crowbar ! - but luckily I noticed this vent first (thought it was a lock or...

Here's some items that might help (or maybe not): :) a) Lead-acid batteries can be charged from an alternator; large lithium batteries should be charged with a CC/CV (constant-current / constant-voltage) unit that charges at a preset max current initially, transitioning to a preset voltage...