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I did a lap from Fairfax City, VA to the national mall in Washington DC. Road pressure tires, map 2, and doing highway speeds (55mph) for the first half on my EXR. I want to say it was roughly 45 miles round trip and I was just about pushing the thing back to the garage on the second half, but...

I talked to Rashid about it today. He said it's there as an extra option to get the contactors to open/close in case they get stuck because of a micro weld. The other option is to tap it with a rubber hammer. Sounds like my kid of engineering 😆

What does the "force contactors" button do on the battery screen? I've tried to avoid most options until I'm comfortable with them, but there's no explanation for stuff like this that I could find so far.

If you remove the bottom cover, be sure to get some replacement butyl rubber for the seal around the edge. I would make sure you don't have any corrosion on your zero module. If you do, then you really want to make sure it's neutralized before closing it back up (in addition to the other...

Kind of wish Alta could've stuck around long enough for the 21700s and 80hp motor (not that you really need that much output in dirt anyway). It would've been neat to see the range and weight difference they might've come up with. Guess we'll see who comes up with the next EV ideas.

I ended up charging individual parallel banks until they were topped up enough to be close to the original cells.

Mine had a lot of corrosion on the cells that eventually bit the dust so I know your plight. That being said, I have a virtual machine loaded onto my laptop running the old version of Ubuntu in order to communicate with the bike. It needed a $70 adapter and the little connector to interface...

I was going to ask in a separate post about bench balancing. Are there any threads about this so I'm not asking a bunch of the same things again? I have a new 0 module that's way out from my original cells and need to bring them up to see if I can finally clear the 36 code and get it working...

I need to do some level charging, but at least my bike is possibly going to be usable again soon.

I'm additionally interested to know what thermal paste to use (and how much) when resealing my pack after balancing and replacing the zero module. Will any Butyl tape with similar dimensions work? The link given is OOS with no anticipated restock date.

I've thought of that as well, actually. Problem being is once the corrosion separates the bond wires, it's basically hosed. They have very tiny micro welds that hold them on and they're actually made to break in case of emergency, so they're basically sacrificial from the get-go. Combine that...

This one shows how to get the bottom cover off once you've got the outer screws removed: This one is the orange cover over the cells: Keep in mind, these have basically zero production value and it was the first time I got the pack open. Needless to say I missed a few pointers and...

I'm guessing it's from the vent at the bottom of the pack. None of the other modules seem to be problematic and it's clean as a whistle on the inside. That or it's the tar-like seal they used for the bottom cover. I couldn't find any other routes for water or moisture to get in.

You can backfeed 12VDC into the headlight connection to keep the module on indefinitely. Mine had an identical problem (2019 EXR). My 0 module got corroded and killed some of the cells so I had to get a replacement module. @ otbnc I'm in Virginia and come down to Raleigh pretty often. I don't...

Here are some pictures to go along with it. If you need help opening up the battery module, let me know. I did a little video on how to get the bottom cover off without destroying it.

I had a similar issue with my EXR. It slowly fell off until it wouldn't stay on for more than a few seconds. The result ended up being corrosion on the terminals of the 0 module (the one on the bottom) which eventually killed about 42 of the individual cells. Total module voltage is down to...

at this point I'm happy with whoever can make anything. Don't need to protect a dead brand. Need to keep the bikes going for those of us who have them.

Any replacements at this point would be welcome. But if they were more of the solid sided I'm sure most of us would be happy to save our knees from the ridges on the originals (not knocking the looks, just saying it can make for pretty uncomfortable landings if you botch it!)

Is it still possible to get the MT up and running if I tried it now? I take it the chances of getting the cables might not be great at this stage?

I'm sure they farmed it out. They originally stated they had Acerbis making their stuff for them so I'm not sure why they're so tight-lipped about recreating them unless there is some kind of licensing issues they're not divulging. You'd think that if they had a chance to sell product at a...