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It looks like the lower large Torx screw on the boot guard is still tight - is the broken-off piece still being held by it? If so, you could try JB Welding it back on and hoping for the best (I did something very similar on one of my vintage bikes; alignment was critical, but after the JB Weld...

I haven't done this to my MXR, but fwiw I've done the reverse to one of my ICE bikes. I replaced a 6.5 lb. external-rotor ignition with a 1.5 lb internal-rotor unit, then had the crank rebalanced (22 grams removed). It changed the throttle response from somewhat sluggish to real snappy, with...

I wish. :)

These might be of interest: 12.7mm OD, 8.1mm ID, 7.14mm long aluminum spacer 15.9mm OD, 8.1mm ID, 7.14mm long aluminum spacer

Yes, way cool and much appreciated! If it were me, I'd increase the plastic thickness for the front wraparound section and the entire lower chain run, in addition to the added support shown. Apparently there's violent upwards chain slap against the bottom of the entire lower run, and casing a...

They're made by a company called Hirschmann, Oded. I believe they also make the BMW throttles.

Mine needed a few tweaks (better bolts & pin, foot end bent up) but now it lifts smooth & easy. Depending on where I put it under the Alta frame rails, I can lift either or both wheels.

The Alta front end feels a bit heavy to me as-is, so moving farther back would work better for me (I did this on my Zero using big bars / tilted risers / taller seat, it made a big difference in my comfort level and a lighter-feeling front end). I measured the MXR's weight distribution this...

Thanks for that link - I have similar ones on one of my Hondas. For me it was more about pullback and moving the grips rearward than height. I've been looking around online for 45° bolt-on risers (SW Motech's Barbacks look pretty good, if they have ones that fit).

Here's the Magura bars (OEM behind, near wall): It took a bit of searching to find "medium" bars like these. Most of the ones I saw were either very similar to the stockers, or ATV-style longhorns like I have on my Zero.

Those specs are outer-edge-to-outer edge, so subtract 25mm for ctr-ctr. The OEM bars are definitely too low for me. I just put on a set of Magura TX bars (higher/ more pullback/a bit narrower than OEM). They feel great in the garage, looking forward to the first ride.

Yes - the MXR bars are Neken model R00182 (817mm wide, 112mm rise, 70mm pullback).

Maybe not, but they'll certainly notice stopping short of corner after corner until they adjust their riding style to suit the motorcycle's deceleration characteristics. If they're a 2t guy like I am, after they adapt to the Alta they'll likely then find themselves overshooting corners on the...

Oh, OK. Hey, have you looked into a custom 12V battery (taller w/same footprint as OEM)? I almost had one made by a local battery shop for my trailer generator, as the stock pan was pretty small. One rated for @ 1000 cold cranking amps should easily be able to provide the extra current needed...

I think it's more like 300A. :) The Alta fast charger draws 16A at 240V, almost 3.9kW; this would require at least 270A at 14.4V alternator out, or 325A at 12V (before losses). It's like there's this @ 1500W threshold: below it things are fairly easy to implement at a reasonable price, above...

I'm pretty much running out of ideas. It seems the only options are big alternators or big bucks, with no guarantees either way. Any thoughts about why this happened? Given your long-term success with the present inverter, it seems like analyzing & possibly fixing this problem would be worth...

So you've actually done this? I thought everything was still in the planning stages at this point.

Not sure about my aggression level, but I have noticed the Alta regen is very different from Zero's. The regen on my Alta seems to get stronger the more the bike slows, almost like auto-braking. The Zero normal regen is just a linear drag effect (adjustable), and there's also adjustable...

I absolutely agree with both of these - in fact, at this point I'd suggest not doing anything to your van's OEM electrical system at all, and just going with a standalone / charge-at-home 48V (or whatever) battery + 48V (or whatever) inverter setup, physically mounted in the van but 100%...

Those sound like pretty nice chargers! I'm used to the weenie 116V Zero units. I was thinking about injecting the 380V after / instead of the rectifier, probably using an SPDT contactor or similar.