BAD NEWS


Redwolf

My dog thinks I'm cool
Likes
1,676
Location
Brinnon, Wa.
Money may be nice, but I would prefer the buyers of 19 EXRs find new drop in extended range batteries as an available option...
 

Bionicman

E powertrain proponent
Likes
385
Location
WA
LOL you guys are asking for freebies from a company that kicked their workers to the street because they ran out of money....
I'm sure their workforce was not dummies but maybe we should just be hopeful they are keeping their families fed - positive energy sent
 

Oded

Well-known member
Likes
869
Location
Israel
A friend of mine with a EX, just broke the screen in a fall.
Basically, she has no way of knowing the state of charge, speed or map mode she is in (the bike runs fine).
Breaking an Alta specific part is a nightmare at the moment. So frustrating..
 

Redwolf

My dog thinks I'm cool
Likes
1,676
Location
Brinnon, Wa.
LOL you guys are asking for freebies from a company that kicked their workers to the street because they ran out of money....
I'm sure their workforce was not dummies but maybe we should just be hopeful they are keeping their families fed - positive energy sent

Haha, not looking for freebies, looking for another way to give them money to hopefully keep the lights on and doors open.

That and make an awesome bike just a little more capable of certain things.
 

Josh402

Active member
Likes
40
Location
Elizabeth City NC
A friend of mine with a EX, just broke the screen in a fall.
Basically, she has no way of knowing the state of charge, speed or map mode she is in (the bike runs fine).
Breaking an Alta specific part is a nightmare at the moment. So frustrating..

The more I see posts of busted displays, that’s making me want to do something with mine, like move it or put some protection over top of it.
 

privateer703

AOF Addict
Likes
687
Location
Altoona, PA
It shouldn't be too difficult to change the plastic case with an aluminum one. Has anybody opened this up? I'm wondering if it's only the display or if it has more brains in it. Anyone on here have access to a CNC Mill? Once I get my MXR (thanks again Scott!) I'll see about taking that display apart to see how easy/difficult it might to machine an aluminum housing with a very deep recess for the display to try and keep it out of harms way. The plastic with a foam wrap looks pretty flimsy to me. If we get enough interest in something like this we can contact a machine shop and see how much it might cost to make a bunch of them.
 

snydes

Moderator
Staff member
Likes
2,797
Location
Pennsylvania
The more I see posts of busted displays, that’s making me want to do something with mine, like move it or put some protection over top of it.

The last set-up of Ty Tremain’s bike was a standard front number plate with the display left at the normal EX/EXR position. One would think it would certainly be better protected there in the event of flipping the bike, but I’ve heard of two displays getting smooshed here so far and both were on EX/EXRs, so maybe it’s not any better there. I totally agree though, that’s a critical piece and it’s REALLY exposed.
 

Mark911

Well-known member
Likes
1,123
Location
Corona Ca
There's plenty of stand alone "Fuel Gauges" for Li-Ion battery packs. The simplest are basically calibrated voltmeters. However, because of the relatively flat discharge cure of our packs these are not very accurate between 1/4 and 3/4 charge. The better one combine current sensing (coulomb counting) along with voltage monitoring. This helps accuracy. The best have built-in algorithms that can "learn" and remember and therefore give much better predictions as to SOC.

The only downside is you'll need to tap into your high voltage system somewhere (probably at the DISCONNECTED main battery +/- connector). Some gauges use wireless comm so you don't need to physically wire from the tap to the display. This, and some form of internal voltage down convert/isolation are highly desirable (mandatory) for safety as you want to avoid running 350v anywhere unless absolutely necessary.

The Alta display is driven by the CAN system. Other CAN compatible displays are readily available but we'd still need to decode the proper messages on the NET.
 

Josh402

Active member
Likes
40
Location
Elizabeth City NC
The last set-up of Ty Tremain’s bike was a standard front number plate with the display left at the normal EX/EXR position. One would think it would certainly be better protected there in the event of flipping the bike, but I’ve heard of two displays getting smooshed here so far and both were on EX/EXRs, so maybe it’s not any better there. I totally agree though, that’s a critical piece and it’s REALLY exposed.
The wreck I had on a soft sand track dislodged it out of place in the bar pad, it only took some new tie straps to set it back right. Mostly, I’m worried about the helmet hitting it.
 

Silent But Dirty

Alta North
Likes
391
Location
Canada
It shouldn't be too difficult to change the plastic case with an aluminum one. Has anybody opened this up? I'm wondering if it's only the display or if it has more brains in it. Anyone on here have access to a CNC Mill? Once I get my MXR (thanks again Scott!) I'll see about taking that display apart to see how easy/difficult it might to machine an aluminum housing with a very deep recess for the display to try and keep it out of harms way. The plastic with a foam wrap looks pretty flimsy to me. If we get enough interest in something like this we can contact a machine shop and see how much it might cost to make a bunch of them.
Anything that needs to be machined I can make happen. I have access to CAD/CAM and CNC Machines. I'm not a huge fan of putting a block of aluminum right where my face might hit though. I would rather figure out some way to relocate it.
 

datadog

Well-known member
Likes
290
Location
USA
I also have machining capability. How much would you guys be willing to pay for an aluminum case? That would determine how many I would need to make to break even or make a little money. Not trying to rain on your parade, Silent But Dirty.
 

privateer703

AOF Addict
Likes
687
Location
Altoona, PA
Would you need the CNC file directly, or can you convert a 3d model? I haven't tried converting any of my model files into CNC code, so not exactly sure what you would need, but I can output virtually any type of model file. I'll talk to my co-workers about using our Faro scanner to get the 3d model digitized.
 

Silent But Dirty

Alta North
Likes
391
Location
Canada
I also have machining capability. How much would you guys be willing to pay for an aluminum case? That would determine how many I would need to make to break even or make a little money. Not trying to rain on your parade, Silent But Dirty.
No worries. I do this all day, so I'm not dying to do it in my free time as well lol.

That being said, with the current exchange rate, by machining in Canada, we will save 30 cents on the dollar
 

Silent But Dirty

Alta North
Likes
391
Location
Canada
Would you need the CNC file directly, or can you convert a 3d model? I haven't tried converting any of my model files into CNC code, so not exactly sure what you would need, but I can output virtually any type of model file. I'll talk to my co-workers about using our Faro scanner to get the 3d model digitized.
All I need is a point cloud from the Faro arm and I can go from there.
 

snydes

Moderator
Staff member
Likes
2,797
Location
Pennsylvania
Would you need the CNC file directly, or can you convert a 3d model? I haven't tried converting any of my model files into CNC code, so not exactly sure what you would need, but I can output virtually any type of model file. I'll talk to my co-workers about using our Faro scanner to get the 3d model digitized.

Shops will want to generate their own code so you would need to provide a file format that they can import into their CAM software. I was the programmer in a small mill department for years, sadly I no longer do so my access to the equipment is a thing of the past. Sounds like we have several members here that do though.
 

privateer703

AOF Addict
Likes
687
Location
Altoona, PA
That's even easier. However I think we would have to make some changes to the design. Not sure how thick the plastic is, but we might want it thicker and I'm almost sure we would want to recess the display more than the plastic. The Faro scanner will get us all the info we need for the mounting points and holes necessary to fit all the components back into it, so I'll have to take the point cloud, output it to a model file then bring it in to a modelling software (I use both Solidworks and Rhino), make the mods to the case, then send you the final version. If there is enough interest we might need both of you to work on it. Or split up the pieces since this will have to be two different halves.
 

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