Little brass thread inserts in plastic -- How to fix


Motophyllic

Well-known member
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NY
High tech nature, If you I want to try the larger inserts and push them in with a soldering iron, I could mail you a couple to try. I bought a kit with all different sizes and it worked great for me.
 

hightechnature

Well-known member
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Location
Los Gatos, CA
Hi Motophyllic, (love the name by the way)

Thank you for the very kind offer. I am going to do the drill through method ( as evidenced by WWmotors picture below). I am going to attempt to design and 3d print a small rack to go on top and may even integrate the stand-off into the rack for holding a bag with my iphone. I'll publish it when I am done to AOF. Again, thank you for the generous offer.


1597187747266.png
 

Motophyllic

Well-known member
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Location
NY
Sounds like a great idea. Can’t wait to see it. Thanks for the comment on my name. Sometimes it takes a High Tech natured person to get me esoteric name. 🤣
 

hightechnature

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Location
Los Gatos, CA
Hi Motophylic.

When I saw your name, I instantly recognized it was creative and a perfect name for our AOF community and the broader motorcycle community. Well done Motophylic!

AND for those wondering what we are talking about, here is why I thought Motophylic is such a good name.

phylic
Adjective
(fī′lē)
n. pl. phy·lae (-lē)
A large citizens' organization based on kinship, constituting the largest political subdivision of an ancient Greek city-state.
 

Philip

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Lake Havasu City, AZ
@wwmotors --- can you please post a picture of the bottom side. your fix for this seems like the most stable/permanent...so looking to see more details. Thx!
Looks like he just drilled through the original inserts and the fender. The bottom would look exactly like it used to look when new. Almost. Except the bottom now has not the bolt heads but (hopefully) locking nuts.
 

wwmotors

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453
Location
Bavaria Germany
Looks like he just drilled through the original inserts and the fender. The bottom would look exactly like it used to look when new. Almost. Except the bottom now has not the bolt heads but (hopefully) locking nuts.
Philip is right: I removed the inserts and drilled straight through. Screw from top, nut down under. The only thing, what You have to produce Yourself are this 45 degree washers from plastic! Works pretty well!
 

TeslaRaptor

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Location
Lake Travis, Texas
Philip is right: I removed the inserts and drilled straight through. Screw from top, nut down under. The only thing, what You have to produce Yourself are this 45 degree washers from plastic! Works pretty well!

I totally get it now...and I think my daughter has some art pieces that I can file down to make the black plastic "washers"...just need to check girth and hardness of them. Thx!
 

snydes

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Pennsylvania
Here's my latest try at a repair for the rearmost rear fender attachment points (second from back on EX, EXR and SM. I have two versions to try. The first is basically the repair as I described in post #51 except I'm using a 3D printed part. This will be nowhere near as strong as the steel part, but will be much easier for people to create and easy to replace. Just use a #8 self tapping screw such as this. 3D model can be downloaded for free HERE.

Version 1.0
40AAAB5E-AF5C-4102-A476-CAABBBB9C294.jpeg
8DE0E159-DFA0-4DE0-BF67-523FB1882D4D.jpeg
3CB2573B-8539-42DE-B255-0CF1B3FF8282.jpeg




Version 2.0
This one is based on the repair idea in this post. This one differs in that it uses a M8x.08mm 30 or 35mm long (depending on if using OEM tail light or not) inserted through the top and secured with a nut from the bottom. V2.0 should be able to take much more abuse than V1.0, but obviously isn't as desirable since it protrudes up from the fender. This version may be more appropriate for the off road guys running the tail light assembly.
C0CAB1EC-0E07-4832-9A48-209902C50E7D.jpeg
 

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