Steering Damper


evh1

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Montgomery, AL
@Trialsman I've read your posts with alot of interest. I do put dampers on all my bikes and a recent long enduro with the Alta just reinforced that. Would you be interested in doing the triple with Ohlins mounts & damper, new bar mount work and steering head bolt conversion at a comfortable number for yourself? Access to proper lathes etc sure looks like the way to go. I would gladly prepay for all M & L. PM me if you're interested.
 

gprix1

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Kingman, AZ
@Trialsman I've read your posts with alot of interest. I do put dampers on all my bikes and a recent long enduro with the Alta just reinforced that. Would you be interested in doing the triple with Ohlins mounts & damper, new bar mount work and steering head bolt conversion at a comfortable number for yourself? Access to proper lathes etc sure looks like the way to go. I would gladly prepay for all M & L. PM me if you're interested.

Another option is to use a 13’-15’ KTM triple clamp, hub and axle. That’s what I did and you get the added benefit of being able to swap wheels with standard KTM wheels.
 

evh1

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Montgomery, AL
I have considered that since it's a RedShift EXR and I do ride it to work some and around town. I'd like using a street type tire to swap out with a knobbie. You're saying that the steering stem needs no mods to mount a Ohlins type stabilizer kit with a KTM clamp?
 

gprix1

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Kingman, AZ
I have considered that since it's a RedShift EXR and I do ride it to work some and around town. I'd like using a street type tire to swap out with a knobbie. You're saying that the steering stem needs no mods to mount a Ohlins type stabilizer kit with a KTM clamp?
Correct, if you buy the KTM spec Ohlins damper, it will work with the KTM clamp. Once you switch over you can sell the clamp, axle and hub on the Alta classifieds for as much or more than the conversion parts. I actually made a few $$ coverting mine.
I think the clamps were $150 on eBay, $120 for Tusk billet hub and like $75 for a new axle from RM.
Oh, and try to find clamps that includes the bar mounts as the Alta ones are slightly different and you’ll need the KTM ones.
 

evh1

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Montgomery, AL
Roger that - to clarify further, the KTM clamp is the one that drops into the stem as a race replacement. The Tusk hub just needs to be laced into a new rim shod with whatever new tire to run.
Spacers etc all still work?
RM is ?
Did you keep track of part numbers you purchased?
Will need to get a rear setup too if I go this way, but it'll be a poor man's SM then !
Thanks for the help on this...
 

gprix1

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82
Location
Kingman, AZ
Roger that - to clarify further, the KTM clamp is the one that drops into the stem as a race replacement. The Tusk hub just needs to be laced into a new rim shod with whatever new tire to run.
Spacers etc all still work?
RM is ?
Did you keep track of part numbers you purchased?
Will need to get a rear setup too if I go this way, but it'll be a poor man's SM then !
Thanks for the help on this...

You want to use the entire KTM clamp assembly. Upper, lower, stem and all. Don’t use newer than a ‘15 or you’ll have clearance issues with the bottom of the top clamp due to the newer style bar clamps (13’-15’ years are correct).

I broke down the Alta wheel and laced it back up with a Tusk KTM hub. As an alternative you could just sell your entire Alta wheel and replace it with a complete Tusk KTM wheel.
Don’t have part numbers but any SX or XC KTM from 13’ up uses the same hub.
I used KTM wheel spacers that I already had. I didn’t even try the Alta spacers but they might work. Anyway, spacers are fairly cheap.
I guess I should also mention I replaced the fender and number plate with ‘15 KTM parts.
RM = Rocky Mountain ATV
Here are some pic's of the setup. I have the steering damper off as I took these in preparation to sell the bike and have moved the steering damper to my new bike since.
FYI, if anyone is looking for a clean MXR, this one is for sale.
IMG_E2954_close.JPGIMG_E2955_close.jpgIMG_E2956.JPG
 

Bloak

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Ontario, Canada
As I have a set of KTM 2011 clamps. I test fitted the lower clamp to check clearances. Although my stops were out a bit for my 2015 clamps, I was able to move from stop to stop without binding (did not require material removed like my 2015 clamps).
This was only a test fit and not a full install. The steering stem did appear to be longer as it pushed out the upper bearing (or maybe it takes different bearings, have not looked into it).
Someone else who has fitted a 2011 style triple clamp may be able to comment on stem requirements.
One picture is with clamp straight, other is turned to stop.
KTM 2011.jpgKTM 2011 t.jpg
 

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