Is this a (red) bicycle bell?Alright, just got mine setup... want to do a proper brake but I feel OK for now. waiting on the bark busters,
View attachment 11641
Yessir, it is! it's to let to folks I'm passing know that I'm there, LOLIs this a (red) bicycle bell?
I love itYessir, it is! it's to let to folks I'm passing know that I'm there, LOL
How did you mount the xact pro shock?? I tried mounting one but doesn't fit, it hits the frameFor the front, I ordered the MDC triples to run my WP cone valve forks with KTM Alpina Wheels. This setup requires the xtrig 200mm axle, wheel spacer and front rotor spacer. I got those parts from toxic Moto racing. I installed beringer stage-2 kit (axial mount). I also installed slidemoto axle slider from toxic that fit the KTM trig axle. Basically, moved my whole front end over from the KTM 450 SX-F I was racing.
For the rear, I modified the rear bushing to install my wp xact pro shock. I took 2mm off the outside of the bushing for the shock to fit inside the frame mount on the stark. The alpina from my KTM moved over with no parts needed (just KTM wheel spacers). I will say the stock rear brake is a PITA, so I mounted a beringer 2-piston caliper with beringer rotor on the stock brake line. I also picked up a set of custom made sliders from Toxic that replace the stark axle blocks for a clean fit. I have a beringer clutch lever I'll move over once I get a custom line for the rear brake from coremoto...need to measure the line na order one, but the stock setup is working for now. The stock setup uses a 8mm banjo at the lever.
I also added a guts seat cover and switched to a 15 tooth front and 45 rear. I race with a guy running 15/39 and he's turning crazy fast laps still. I'll stay with the 15/45 as it allows a swap without having to break the chain.
For what it's worth, the kick stand works with SM wheels. I was told warp9 is working on a longer kickstand that will actually work for dirt duty, as the stock one is way to short.
The pic below was before suspension swap.
View attachment 11378
Hiya wondering if you can assist, was the 5.00 a struggle to fit on the stark?Yeah, 5" rear!
Using 4.25 with slick tires is no good. And in my experience also road tires on 4.25 gets wider than on 5" if using 150/160 wide. Have never tried 130/140 though.
5" fits just fine, no reason to run 4.25" sure it takes just a little finesse to get it past the caliper but dropping in from the top makes it pretty easy. Im running 160/60-17 on a 5" and everything clears, no chain bite. Gearing at 15/45 means you don't need to break the chain and it doesn't eat the chain pivot slider like crazy. Also worth a mention that warp9 was awesome to purchase from, super easy, maybe not the cheapest or highest performance but solid wheels with great customer serviceHiya wondering if you can assist, was the 5.00 a struggle to fit on the stark?
Would you advise me to go for a 4.25 or 5” on the stark?
Thanks
5" for sure. With 160 rear.Hiya wondering if you can assist, was the 5.00 a struggle to fit on the stark?
Would you advise me to go for a 4.25 or 5” on the stark?
Thanks
I mounted a 41 rear sprocket, but with a 15 on the front. It works, don't know how long the chain slider would last thoughAnyone tried 42 tooth at the rear, would 42 or 43 fit on the varg?
If you are looking for a real good tire and haven't gotten anything yet. One of the best rubbers I've ridden for Supermoto are the Metzeler Racetec RR. I run a K2 compound in front (softer) and K3 in the rear (harder)Sweet! I'm not racing and hence not doing slicks, but I do want the biggest tire that will fit without rubbing. ... but I'll admit ... mostly for appearance purposes. So I'll pick up a 5"x17" rear tubeless wheel and grab some contiattack SM 160/60s I think.
Motomaster or the beringer axial 4p (but i don't know if they make one that fits the 320mm rotor, i know only the 300mm and 310mm versions). But i suggest you to change the master, at least buy something like a used stock ktm smc 690 master cylinder, is good enough to keep up with a 4p caliperNeed assistance with front brakes.
Factory brake setup faded very quickly at a kart track.
What 4 piston calipers work well with the factory 12mm master cylinder, 320mm warp 9 wheels?
Axial to radial caliper adapter...
Caliper to spoke clearance...
View attachment 13538
Im waiting to hear back from Motomaster, VMX and Beringer...Motomaster or the beringer axial 4p (but i don't know if they make one that fits the 320mm rotor, i know only the 300mm and 310mm versions). But i suggest you to change the master, at least buy something like a used stock ktm smc 690 master cylinder, is good enough to keep up with a 4p caliper
I don't know what the ideal ratio should be, i'm just speaking from experience (i worked for a supermoto team and i still do occasionally on the weekends). The m50 requires at least a 15mm piston master cylinder to have a good feel. On my old bike i had a 4p radial beringer with a nissin mx master cylinder: the brake works (kinda) but the feel is horrible, no modulation, way too much travel of the lever and the braking power should've been way stronger. Now that caliper is combined with a Beringer br12 master, completely different story. Here in italy the best buck for money would be a radial brembo 16x18 (around 200€ new) or an accossato (same 16x18 radial for a similar price). I would suggest you to change the master, it's build to move the 2p stock caliper, not a 4pIm waiting to hear back from Motomaster, VMX and Beringer...
I ran the #'s of the factory 12mm diameter MC and a Brembo M50 Caliper with 30mm pistons and the ratio was 1:25 which fro my understanding is in the sweet spot... no?
I would use as a reference with a 4p caliper a ratio between 16 and 20, based on my experience with different caliper and master cylinder combination, that's seems to be the sweet spot between braking power and modulation
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