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Usually most EV motorcycles/cars have a charger in between (for example the SM). That would then let you handshake between the EVSE and the onboard charger. Technically some sort of "handshake box" would have to work between the EVSE and Altas.

You had a post awhile back with your pack possibly having a code 36. Did you ever end up looking at multitool on the battery?

There arent fuses on the bike (like a fuse block). Sounds like a loose connection. Were any of the spade terminals for the light plugged in loose or wrong connection? We had some issues like this back in production which was related more to the bulb/wiring.

I see what you mean by hitting the fender. A brace on the underside could help with reinforcement, not so much on the tire hitting problem. Few people have drilled into the topside of the fender to install moose racing straps (I believe the store from Alta used to sell them).

Easiest way to check for shorts or faults is using Multitool, which is the diagnostic system Alta created. There could be some dirt/debris in the rear harness. Or the harnessing to the lightbulb may have gotten loose.

much better video online.

Ah Mr Tucson EV. Hes quite the old school guy building these kits and harnesses.

Unplug it.

Not much really. Maybe a slight increase..I never really worry as I charge at work and home on regular outlets. The dream would be a J1772 plug that can handshake with charger stations...

Your SM charger is 1.1Kw. A rapid charger is 3.3ish kW, so in supermoto sense, yes its better. But that then requires a Charger to DCCP swap...which isnt really a fun thing to do.

Its more related to how your 240V setup is wired. The SM charger and firmware is "sensitive" to voltage ranges (as wwmotors found out). The last FW update for the SM should have the 240V capability. Easiest check would be to check in Multitool.

"A Zero only just punted the Alta to get ahead..."

Should not be a problem. You need to upload the inverter firmware (yay) to get the maps specific for the SM

A new one is about 60ish bucks. Ive seen them go for about 100.00.

If the throttle tube is "damaged" I would recommend not selling that part as that could affect the usage of the throttle.

Yes. There also not custom.

Riiiight...so the brass insert is heat staked into the plastic (which already does not have alot of surface area). Be aware that most owners do not hit the recommended 1ish NM for the torque...most probably the good old German technique of "guudentight" which leads to the wonderful destruction...

Explain to all of us how you would modify the tooling to eliminate the brass inserts. No pressure.

Acerbis did not make those parts.

On 110 the rapid charger will help. Upping the voltage (220) will help further.