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+1 on the Ohlins shock (my AER's finally working well at 96 psi, think I'll stick with it for now). FBI got my first spring wrong too, but now with the proper 5.8 and two revalves it's pretty close to correct for my riding - a huge improvement over the WP. If you're using that Ohlins washer on...

Amazing! No doubt it will drop temps significantly.

If your main problem is bottoming, I think you're much better off solving it with spring rate (progressive, not just super-stiff) rather than damping. Getting the last 25% of travel correct for the big stuff frees you up to do whatever you want with the other 75%. Bottoming bumpers can also...

Sure, glad to! Sorry about my earlier thread, I was looking at the wrong end of the bolt. :)

Well, this time I took pics, a test ride, and slept on it before posting, and no doubt about it - adding the .072"-thick (1.8mm) Ohlins washer to my lower shock bolt damaged the Alta dogbone. The bolt head removed about .05" / 1.25mm of aluminum at the rear & about .010" / .25mm in front...

Sorry about my previous post - turned out to be something quite different than the shock-bolt washer. Here's what I think happened, for any who read this crappy thread :) - upon removal this morning, a small chunk of bolt thread chipped off and damaged the innermost thread (aluminum curl and...

Liquid's listing shows 4 of them left.

In your pic #2, your bottom stop is bent way forward (the ones on my MXR look nearly identical top and bottom). If you can't find a replacement bracket, you could try heating the bent stop real hot and bending it back - even a small amount might help. Your pivot bolt might be bent a little...

Nah, I just rtf - couldn't find a bit to fit those outside screws anyway ;) - they look like something you'd find in a public men's room.

Maybe you know this already, but the smaller inner screw (closest to the handlebar) is the only one that should be used. The two outer ones are not meant to be loosened, and can damage the throttle if removed.

I must have missed this reply... if the original fuse characteristics could be roughly determined by measuring an intact aluminum fuse link, then doing some web research on resistance per unit length & what other similar packs are successfully using, it should be possible to come up with a...

Alta MXR WP shock (stamped -01) w/Race Tech SMGV 5003 Gold Valve piston kit & SPNV 0512 nitrogen charging screw, Zeta ZE56-32250 10mm lowering spacer, and custom-machined graphite-impregnated nylon check valve / spring for Dual Compression Control (replaces DCC shim stack). 50+ Race Tech kit...

Are those custom pegs?

Great job - thanks for making these! Count me in.

+1. Sprockets made a big difference on my bike - the 11/60T combination was like an auto-brake, had to take them off. You could try a 15T & see if it helps. I'm using 12/48T now with map 4, seems like an OK balance between acceleration and reduced regen. I might try a 13T in the future...

I was cutting a 12" tree into logs many years ago, and about halfway through I hit a piece of thick metal, possibly a gutter nail or something else the tree had grown around. It kicked back so hard I almost knocked myself out with the back of my hand. :( Didn't use one again for many years...

Thanks - good to know! I was looking at the Oregon Cordless 16" saw as the batteries can be used in other O.C. tools, probably with a backpack as I rarely have to cut.

Not to hijack, but does anyone have a recommendation for saw bar length? Some of the real problem trees here are 12-16" in diameter, though most are less.

Yours came with an O-ring chain? My MXR had a Regina non-O-ring, the master links sucked (replaced w/D.I.D. 520NZ links, perfect fit) but the chain itself held up OK for 2.5+ years/3K miles.

Me too! It was one thing to chop the throttle at 20mph in my driveway and stop within 2 bike lengths, but when the front end dropped like a stone at the top of a steep downhill and my feet came off the pegs I saw it was a safety issue, so off it came (RK 520XS01 chain).