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Idk about the motor-shaft thing, but if you're concerned about it here's another tool I really like - the Motion Pro 08-0008 clutch holding tool. I've used it for a bunch of other things too, it's pretty versatile. Without protection it might chew the gear teeth a little, but if you're...

I've had good luck with the Motion Pro 08-0427, on both straight-cut and helical. It seems to push against the tooth bases in a 'circumferential' direction, and the end engagement wedge has a slight tilt to it (probably for helicals).

Hey, I posted two! :) Trust me, no one wants to watch me ride, much less wheelie.

Here I go with another wheelie thing! - but this isn't a bolted-down dollar store ride this time, this is an Alta. :) I was looking for conventional wheelie casters - didn't really want one, but what else was there? - and found the answer: the SB Moto ABS wheelie bar. It looks like a caster...

+1 ! Even on an IP67 bike, the temp swings and dew-point transitions don't do anything any good.

This is what I wrote down the first time my number plates came off: Rear screw has a short black spacer, the 2nd & 3rd screws use medium-length silver spacers, and the front screw has a long black spacer.

My 30kW house generator does - a long stake driven deep into the earth, with a short thick cable to the generator enclosure chassis.

Your prototypes sound excellent, and I hope all goes well for you and Flux. Some of these have been mentioned already, but in a full-power bike I'd like to be able to swap your 3kWh and 6kWh batteries easily (I'd buy both, I prefer lighter weight and imo a spare battery is a good idea)...

Apparently 13A in fast-charge mode, and 10A in normal. KTM manual page

My battery's covered with a non-hardening soft black sealant there too - mine would easily scrape off with a fingernail. If it were me, I'd just clean the area and re-apply a similar sealant.

The big trailer-mounted wheelie machines have dyno drums that probably add a lot of 'synthetic momentum', for lack of a better term (I use a spring to simulate it, still working on the rate & preload but getting there). My setup has almost no lateral play in it - took a while to get it that...

Thread at Electric Motorcycle Forum A modified version of this setup should work fine with the Alta.

Yes, I felt that too last year, so I started running my chain at 40-45mm of slack (Alta manual calls for 30-35mm). When I changed out the shock recently I positioned the swingarm at minimum slack, and found it was almost binding-tight at one point in the wheel rotation. Now I run the...

Based on my motor-replacement experience in my non-Alta bike, if this happened to me I'd change out the entire motor if feasible (I was surprised at the difference fresh magnets made!) and/or send the old one out to Accu Electric or similar for shaft/bearing/seal etc. replacement - remagnetizing...

Thanks for the superb write-up and pics! If/when the day comes to put mine in, it'll be great to know what to do.

In addition to Mark's comments, I think there may also be a truth-in-advertising aspect... I've been watching these guys since 2015 and they've always mentioned two battery sizes available (small/light & large/heavy). I think the '7000 WH' battery spec should probably read 'up to 7000 WH'...

+1, on everything! I always wanted Konis, especially the aluminum-finned ones. Remember the Franks "monoshock"? Apparently it worked pretty well - I wonder how it'd work for electric with a lightweight modern single shock & modified swingarm?

Just a quick suggestion to the MXM guys, based on actual experience with this type of setup back in the day - a 'banana' swingarm ('80 Mugen 125 example below, the MXM unit would be different but the same basic idea): This allows using a long shock at a more conventional angle rather than the...

+1 - much appreciated!

Looks real solid - nice! Truss-head screws might be a good fit to minimize snagging - just a bit lower & wider than pan or button heads.