2023 Honda CRF250R with QS138 70H V3 Motor and EM260S Controller


DonCox

Well-known member
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408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ

3 monthes ago I was riding at Cahuilla Creek Mx track on Bob Casper's Honda Ebike 2010 250 CRF with the same motor /Controller on it. I came in and Bob was talking to Brock. Brock wanted his son to try this ebike and Bob was ok with that. His kid ripped on it. He came in and said Dad I want one of these. They had some other ebike on order. They already had some Surrons. He had a season of moto on his 2023 CRF250R and was getting a new one. He called me a couple weeks after that day at Cahuilla, and we negotiated the build. I picked up the CRF on July 1 , motor and stuff removed. I had started the ElectroandCompany.com kit order already, and when I got the bike we got started. 3 Weeks ago I had it running with a test battery. Yesterday we were at Glen Helen riding. I'd like to thank Austin at E&C.com, Derek Timm at Lithium-King.com, Mark here in Lake Havasu City for a lot of help on the Battery. And I better thank my wife for all the time I have spent on this project, because she has put up with me supposed to being retired and working 8-10 hour days on this. ( I washed the windows today to win some brownie points)
Here are some pictures of the build . The bike weighed 143lbs as a donor bike, and when it was done it is 226lbs.. If you have any questions I have a lot more pics, I hope I can explain it with Pics.
Here is a test ride, and there are other on my YouTube channel

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SubSonic

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46
Location
AZ
Bike looks Good 2025 -
is front part of the lower motor mount bracket there to add back rigidity
lost when removing the stock motor ?
 

DonCox

Well-known member
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408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
I usually mount the motor with 3 points, the swing arm bolt, and the 2 sets of mounts at the bottom of the motor. So I just ran the mount to the front since the middle bottom bolts only go to the plate. These little motors put out some really awesome torque. I would rather be on the side of too solid than not enough. Check out the new battery test on the YZ250 The torque brings the front end up any time in mode 3(Sport Mode)
 

bayodome

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124
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Awesome work Don!

I finally got to take my conversion out to a real motocross track this weekend and was very pleased with the result. Brought my identically prepped 2015 YZ250F as well for back to back comparison. In Map 3 (350a) I'd say the ebike is just a hair off of the four-stroke power. But I was able to do every jump and obstacle just as I did on the ICE bike. Once you get the new EM260S controller all figured out, I'd love to hear how it performs.

Love these conversions! Thanks so much for helping with mine!

 

DonCox

Well-known member
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408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Your conversion looks really good. The battery is such a difficult part of every build. Also since every build seems to be in a different frame.
Im looking at the battery you used, as a solution, they build a great battery. Fusible links, the right cells and quantity, they disable discharge BMS Control. A size that will fit both the YZ250F like yours and I think it would fit in the new Honda CRF. This guy I built it for might want a quick change battery, I think I could do it with the Chi Battery.
 

bayodome

Well-known member
Likes
124
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Your conversion looks really good. The battery is such a difficult part of every build. Also since every build seems to be in a different frame.
Im looking at the battery you used, as a solution, they build a great battery. Fusible links, the right cells and quantity, they disable discharge BMS Control. A size that will fit both the YZ250F like yours and I think it would fit in the new Honda CRF. This guy I built it for might want a quick change battery, I think I could do it with the Chi Battery.
Thanks Don! It's a pretty small form factor for sure (especially considering the power output and ah), compared to many of the other batteries I've seen. It would've been too tall in the regular design though, so I ordered mine without any display. That shaved about 1.5 inches off the top.

It's perfectly setup up for quick change too. As it is, it would take me about 3 minutes to completely swap to a new battery. Pretty much just have to remove the seat.
 

DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Thanks Don! It's a pretty small form factor for sure (especially considering the power output and ah), compared to many of the other batteries I've seen. It would've been too tall in the regular design though, so I ordered mine without any display. That shaved about 1.5 inches off the top.

It's perfectly setup up for quick change too. As it is, it would take me about 3 minutes to completely swap to a new battery. Pretty much just have to remove the seat.
I don't know if you noticed the Boost button on my YZ250F at Glen Helen, the most recent one, but it is the Sport mode or Mode 3 put onto an easy to hit on and off on the left side. I was able to hit when needed. Bob and I were neck and neck all around the REM track, I came out a turn with Bob slightly ahead, Hit the Boost button and drove right by him. My Boost button goes from 300A to 400A. Then off for the rest of the track. If you have E&C send me another regular ON/OFF, 3 Mode Switch I will rewire it with the same setup. Kind of a Push to Pass switch. Have E&C make note of who is sending the switch on or in the package.
 

Jim D

New member
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0
Location
Las Vegas, NV

3 monthes ago I was riding at Cahuilla Creek Mx track on Bob Casper's Honda Ebike 2010 250 CRF with the same motor /Controller on it. I came in and Bob was talking to Brock. Brock wanted his son to try this ebike and Bob was ok with that. His kid ripped on it. He came in and said Dad I want one of these. They had some other ebike on order. They already had some Surrons. He had a season of moto on his 2023 CRF250R and was getting a new one. He called me a couple weeks after that day at Cahuilla, and we negotiated the build. I picked up the CRF on July 1 , motor and stuff removed. I had started the ElectroandCompany.com kit order already, and when I got the bike we got started. 3 Weeks ago I had it running with a test battery. Yesterday we were at Glen Helen riding. I'd like to thank Austin at E&C.com, Derek Timm at Lithium-King.com, Mark here in Lake Havasu City for a lot of help on the Battery. And I better thank my wife for all the time I have spent on this project, because she has put up with me supposed to being retired and working 8-10 hour days on this. ( I washed the windows today to win some brownie points)
Here are some pictures of the build . The bike weighed 143lbs as a donor bike, and when it was done it is 226lbs.. If you have any questions I have a lot more pics, I hope I can explain it with Pics.
Here is a test ride, and there are other on my YouTube channel

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I don't know if you noticed the Boost button on my YZ250F at Glen Helen, the most recent one, but it is the Sport mode or Mode 3 put onto an easy to hit on and off on the left side. I was able to hit when needed. Bob and I were neck and neck all around the REM track, I came out a turn with Bob slightly ahead, Hit the Boost button and drove right by him. My Boost button goes from 300A to 400A. Then off for the rest of the track. If you have E&C send me another regular ON/OFF, 3 Mode Switch I will rewire it with the same setup. Kind of a Push to Pass switch. Have E&C make note of who is sending the switch on or in the package.
Sorry everyone, just learning how to reply. Don I have a question on your battery for this build. There is a picture showing some copper strips soldered on cells sitting in a box. Are those copper strips designed to function as a cell level fuse?
 

DonCox

Well-known member
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408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Yes they are they are about a 80-90A fuse. It is the same area as a 1mm diameter copper wire. It has been empirically tested for that rating. The main bus bars are .4mm x 8mm copper strips which carry about 400A, also tested empirically, equivalent to a 2mm diameter copper wire. We have the copper water jetted to our specs. The joints can be monitored , repaired and batteries exchanged easily. We have had great success with this setup.
 

DonCox

Well-known member
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408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Hello, what amp/hr battery do you have in the CRF conversion.
I have 20S12P for 50AH. I actually have it split into 2 x 20S6P packs, so I can charge them faster at the track with 2 x 120V 15Amp chargers. It is pretty tight in the YZ frame. Here are some internal pictures of the battery. 10 x 6 times 4. Chi battery Systems sells a battery for Surrons that is the same size 20S12P (72V 51AH Gladiator.) and it is 6" x 6" x 17", and it will fit the YZ frame and the Honda CRF frame

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Jim D

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Location
Las Vegas, NV
Thanks for the info Don. I may have screwed up. I have ordered 240 of the Molicel 42a planning to split them as you have done but in 2 sides of 20s6p. I also ordered the DALY Smart BMS 20S 72v 80amp. How is your BMS set up on this build?
 

HansItaly

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Location
Casale Monferrato Italy
Hi Don, I follow you from Italy and I would also like to build a bike like yours. I'm ordering a kit from E&C (EMX 28KW) with a 72V 48Ah Square High Power battery.
I don't understand if the E&C components are the same ones you find on Ali Baba (QS138 V3 70h and VOTOL EM260SP) or if E&C modifies them in the software. Do you think the Square battery (8x8x8) is enough? Tks. Alessandro
 

VINSANITY

Well-known member
Likes
398
Location
Texas
I have 20S12P for 50AH. I actually have it split into 2 x 20S6P packs, so I can charge them faster at the track with 2 x 120V 15Amp chargers. It is pretty tight in the YZ frame. Here are some internal pictures of the battery. 10 x 6 times 4. Chi battery Systems sells a battery for Surrons that is the same size 20S12P (72V 51AH Gladiator.) and it is 6" x 6" x 17", and it will fit the YZ frame and the Honda CRF frame

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Thanks for responding. So with the 50 amp/hr pack approximately what range / run time do you get. I typically trail ride with MX tracks once in a while.
 

DonCox

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408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
50AH at 72V is about 3.6KW of stored power. On the smaller bikes (KX80,85, 100, YZ85, etc) it takes about 100W per mile on trail riding, so the 20S8P battery we put in the smaller bikes is 2.4KW and 100W per mile gives you about 25 miles. We have gotten that quite often. More hills , harder riding the distance gets shorter. The full size bike with the bigger controller use about 150W per trail mile, so the 3.6KW battery will get you about the same 25 miles of trail riding. I can get 10 to 12 laps on tough moto tracks, while running as hard as I can. I built one 2017 KTM with a 4.8KW battery, ( 20S16P) and he has gotten some 40 Mile range on multiple trail rides.
 

HansItaly

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Location
Casale Monferrato Italy
50AH at 72V is about 3.6KW of stored power. On the smaller bikes (KX80,85, 100, YZ85, etc) it takes about 100W per mile on trail riding, so the 20S8P battery we put in the smaller bikes is 2.4KW and 100W per mile gives you about 25 miles. We have gotten that quite often. More hills , harder riding the distance gets shorter. The full size bike with the bigger controller use about 150W per trail mile, so the 3.6KW battery will get you about the same 25 miles of trail riding. I can get 10 to 12 laps on tough moto tracks, while running as hard as I can. I built one 2017 KTM with a 4.8KW battery, ( 20S16P) and he has gotten some 40 Mile range on multiple trail rides.
Tks Don, unfortunately I'm not very skilled on electric motorbikes, so I would need to understand where to buy the necessary components. I don't understand if E&C Square's battery is enough and if their products are good. I would like to buy the materials but I don't know where and which ones are best to buy. The idea is to convert my Motocross Team to electric on Honda chassis
 

VINSANITY

Well-known member
Likes
398
Location
Texas
50AH at 72V is about 3.6KW of stored power. On the smaller bikes (KX80,85, 100, YZ85, etc) it takes about 100W per mile on trail riding, so the 20S8P battery we put in the smaller bikes is 2.4KW and 100W per mile gives you about 25 miles. We have gotten that quite often. More hills , harder riding the distance gets shorter. The full size bike with the bigger controller use about 150W per trail mile, so the 3.6KW battery will get you about the same 25 miles of trail riding. I can get 10 to 12 laps on tough moto tracks, while running as hard as I can. I built one 2017 KTM with a 4.8KW battery, ( 20S16P) and he has gotten some 40 Mile range on multiple trail rides.
Thanks for summarizing Don, I value your experience and the numbers help me understand what to expect.
 

bayodome

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124
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Tks Don, unfortunately I'm not very skilled on electric motorbikes, so I would need to understand where to buy the necessary components. I don't understand if E&C Square's battery is enough and if their products are good. I would like to buy the materials but I don't know where and which ones are best to buy. The idea is to convert my Motocross Team to electric on Honda chassis
If you don't understand electronics, then Electro & Company is 100% the way to go. They take care of everything for you. Basically all you need to do is connect everything. If you really don't want to mess with any fine tuning, then you should find a 2018-2022 YZ450F or 2019-2023 YZ250F rolling chassis and buy their new EMX kit. Takes 99% of the guess work out of everything. I would've done the same if that option had existed a year ago when I built mine.
 

DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
408
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Tks Don, unfortunately I'm not very skilled on electric motorbikes, so I would need to understand where to buy the necessary components. I don't understand if E&C Square's battery is enough and if their products are good. I would like to buy the materials but I don't know where and which ones are best to buy. The idea is to convert my Motocross Team to electric on Honda chassis
Alessandro, Glad to help you. What year and model Honda's are you going to modify to electric. I have done this 2023 CRF and I am right now starting a 2005 CRF450R. As Bayodome mentioned Electro and Company is a great way to go. On this forum a guy just finished a Honda build of a 2006 CRF, using a Restyle kit for newer plastics, and he also used the ElectroandCompany kit. ElectroandCompany.com is the best way to go for simplicity. Have you already watched this article on this forum ? Starting my bike build. I was able to help him also.
The company we use for a lot of parts is Lithium-King.com, he can have motor mounts water jetted for you, and he has extra wide and strong sprockets, and motor parts that can break. You can buy the parts straight from China, and they will work, but the ElectroandCompany kits make it so simple. easy wiring harness, a tune that makes the motor work, and all the switches needed. We are trying to standardize the battery, for a quick change system for Moto and Enduro racing. And a standard battery for costs and swapping around for different types of races. The Honda that the guy built on this forum, he is using the ElectroandCompany taller battery, the 76V 48AH battery. This battery is ok and reasonable, but doesn't use the best batteries. But the size fits in the 2005-2006 CRF frames. I think it will fit in the 2014 YZ250-450F frames also. But I think the newer Honda frames get narrower, and so do the YZ250-450F from 2018 and newer are narrower.
Let me know what your year and model Honda you will using, and how long you need them to run. We are able to do 6 lap races on the Glen Helen hill track and use about 1/2 of the battery. here is a YouTube of me riding a few laps on that track which I did 3 , 6 lap motos, with charging back to 95% each moto. The battery is a fresh 20S12P Molicel P42A cells battery.
The guy that flies by me is an older Pro rider, ( this was the over 60 racers) Doug Dubach.
 
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