KLX250SM build


BlueKLXSM

New member
Hi All
Dave from Sydney Australia, new to the forum. Central Coast area to be more specific.
I am embarking on my 1st EV build and thought i would share some pics of donar bike and the like.
Plus ask some questions about the votol controller and programming interface.

Donar bike is a KLX250SF 2011 (im not sure why they were label SF here in Australia) but its a super moto.
Young fella i brought it from, just put new brand new pirelli's on it and 12 months rego, then lost his license.
16000km or 10,000 miles for you non metric users out there, came with the trail 21 and 18 inch rims also.
She runs ok i have a klx09 250 with a bill blue 351cc big bore kit at a mates farm(ranch) and thats a different beast.

So Kawasaki brought these out in 2010 and 2011 in Blue here in Australia, from my best research and understanding approx only 250 of these where imported and sold in Australia.
Unsure why they stopped maybe the Green trail model was just selling so much better with the lower price point. Due to the low volume the blue plastics are no longer stocked as spares.
I am going to wrap some of these in a blue carbon look vinyl.

Will tidy up the tail as shown in pics with one piece rear fender, and replace the metal fuel/gas tank with a plastic one with kayak access hatch for storage.
Last night i topped her up with fuel and weighed her, quite heavy 132.45kg or 291.5lbs.
As the project progress's i will update weight changes, im sure to loose at least 50kg or 110lbs from removing motor/exhaust, radiator and coolant overflow bottle, airbox and carb, plus the tank full of fuel.
battery motor and controller = approx 30kg/66lbs. So 110kg/242lbs would be great final weight.

Unfortunately living in Australia and undertaking out of normal projects posse's some challenges.
1. The Australian dollar vs the USD is quite poor, so 1000 USD = $1500 AUD
2. Our rules and regulations for road going cars and bikes are strict (australian design regulations or ADR's), thus bike to be road legal will have to certified by an engineer at a cost of $1000 USD
then registration papers adjusted acoordingly, challenges here are not many places can or are willing to sign off on such a DIY project.
There was a place 1 hr north but they wanted me to buy their motor and controller/battery bundle for $8000 AUD or $5300 USD.
I have now found a place 4hrs north west, so once ready will just do an overnighter.
3. Parts from USA can be slow to ship, and thats if the seller will even ship international (as i found out with my DR350 94 restoration project last year)

Due to the ADR's i will have to leave the 12v starter battery as the regualtions state that the electric car/bike must have a backup supply of power for lights and indicators should the main source be completely depleted. The engineer told me its a rule that passes over from the electric car, if you out of main power you must have alternate source to have hazards flash. As the engineer said you would just walk the bike off the road, but these are the rules.

Im currently running a hydraulic clutch (not present in 1st pic) and will just order another longer brake line so i have left hand rear brake.

The Motor is a QS138 and controller is VOTOL em260 with throttle controls from Aliexpress.
Battery is being built buy Amorge 72v 48AH
the wiring was very poorly rigged, you would think that 3 pin female connect to the only 3 pin male in the corresponding loom but no, anyway with help of the online seller i have most of it sorted.
Display has stopped working DN7 version so seller if sending me another a DKD.

I have some questions that forum members may be able to help me out with below.
1. I want to clean up the loom, is the ground on the programing connector required ?

2. the seller stated i cant use modes 1 to 3 and sport mode, i must change PA12, high speed switch to sport mode, does this sound right, currently not connected from the trottle control is a red/yellow cable that is the sport mode monentary swtich, i also have an unconnected pair on controller red/yellow and purple grey.

3. other cables i currently have spare on controller are (other than grounds/earths) any help with functions would be helpful
a: brown/black
b:black/white(grey),
c: green/yellow
the whole cabling to port assignment does my head in, is there a forum post on the 16 ports and function assignment inc cabling ?

4. Can someone suggest a resetable circuit breaker that will work for my motor controller setup, theres a 400amp fuse on the controller.

Thank you in Advance

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klx250SF 2011.jpg
 

DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
I can help you with a lot of the wiring. I have used quite a few kits from China, with there wiring harness. These are a bit confusing, but they seem to work well in the end. Also the programing on the port page is a little tricky.
Does the bike weigh 132KG with the gas bike or the electric?
Send me some questions, and I will try to help. Here are some answers to your questions.
1.) leave the ground in the programming port, it isn't used and doesn't bother anything.
2.) you can use modes 1,2,and3 as well as Sport, and Reverse. Here is a picture of my Port Settings. I turn off the Park switch (PD1)
3.) Here are 2 pictures of the wires and there assignments in the EM260S wiring harness. A lot of the cables are spares, since we don't use the alarm, kickstand switch, Parking function, Brake Power interruption,

I hope this helps, ask some more question, I'd be glad to try and help.
Don

Config Ports China EM260S orig.jpg

Wiring Harness info BOTTOM.jpg

Wiring harness info TOP.jpg
 

BlueKLXSM

New member
Thanks Don
I have watched some of your youtube videos and messaged you over there a few times also.
132kg as gas/petrol bike full of fuel, will remove all ICE related parts this weekend and and reweigh we be interesting.

So i cant keep Park and have mode 1,2,3 and sport ? assign to another empty PD maybe ?
If i reconfig PD1 to sport, i assume to connect red/yellow from both controller and right hand controls ?
side stand would be handy so someone doesnt twist the trottle while on the stand and the bike goes launching.
 

DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Sorry mate, I sent you the wrong Port settings. You can keep Park, have 1,2,3 and Sport mode. Here is the original settings from China. You can see that Park is PD1, with the SW checked. That allows it to be turned on and off with a momentary switch, like a kill switch. If you are going to connect it to the kickstand, you might want to UNCheck the Sw box, and now it must be held to ground to be in Park. There is a momentary switch that comes with the wiring harness, on the left handle. Sport is in PB2 and comes out on wires Brown and Black/Brown. This also has SW checked, making it come on and off with a momentary switch. I don't us this because without one of there Displays, there is no indication of it's state ( on or off). Modes Low Speed enable is on PA11. it must be grounded to be on (SW is not selected), and High Speed Enable is on PA12, and it must be grounded to be on. (SW is also not selected. If neither Low or High are selected the default is Medium. Whenever you hit Sport , it is on over any other speed choice.
I can see that you have a different wiring harness, so I don't know if the schematic I sent yesterday is the correct one.

Port settings Chinese Original labeled.jpg
 

BlueKLXSM

New member
Thanks Don
I have now made park momentary and will wire to side stand and have all the modes running 1,2,3 and 4 on the software.
Struggling trying to get display to show anyting but voltage, have checked one lin from controller connector to rear of display i opened the display DN7 and continuity checked was fine.
can i used a multimeter on single wire to display to check if mode 1,2,3 and sport are sending signal to display. voltage or amps. resistance how does the single wire output to display to show modes and park as such ?

Tomorrow is the tear down of the ICE components and some measurements for Derek at lithium King for brackets
 

DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
I don't have a full understanding of everything Votol, but I believe that the wire on J1-16 is the white wire, and is called LIN, and is controlled by selecting 11 in the port PB4 "one line on", and IO being checked. Then you must go into the software and select One-Lin selection in the Out-Put box. Here is the wiring assignments for the DN7 Display also. The Lin wire, the white wire from the controller must connect to the Purple wire going into the Display. The 9 pin connector going to the display is not the same for all displays. I have used 3 different displays, The DKD, the DN7 and the DKD-TFT all are connected differently. The DN7 gives you the best info, and is the most visible in daylight.

One Lin Output in Pg3 settings.jpg

DN7 Wiring.jpg
 

BlueKLXSM

New member
Update and pics
  1. The petrol engine and all related items have been removed, lost 60kg inc fuel tank and exhaust/radiator/airbox etc. estimates are 30kg lighter when EV.
  2. New plastic fuel tank will be used as glove box (4in access hatch to paint) and have the main shutoff switch on top see pics, this will lead to a contactor allowing 72v to flow to the controller from the battery the switch is removable.
  3. Battery from Amorge has arrived 72v 48ah built in BMS and circuit breaker, 19kg total. uses QS8 plugs for anti spark when connecting.
  4. New ignition key switch has 2 normally open, normally closed pairs, 1 pair for the 12v system and the other for the 72v side. so the starting sequence will be key on then shutoff switch on.
  5. Bike is wired so that when the stand is down, the controller is locked in park mode thus no Turkey can just twist the throttle and the bike takes off.
  6. Diode has been placed inline with 72v to 12v step down transformer no back feed possible.
  7. All 12v has been rewired, as the original harness was worth saving for resale due to so many non applicable connections. using orginal left hand controllers as indicator switch as push to reset easier and supplied left hand throttle.
  8. Registration reqirements here require odometer readings, i pulled orginal klx dash so had to source a small gauge (2in/52mm) like version that you can input old odometer reading, as they would not pass a vechicle that one year had 15000km on it and the next year had 2000km at annual rego inspection. You cant modify odometer reading on the DKD or DN7 as far as i know
  9. 12volt cabling runs on the left of the frame, with 72v in yellow on the right.
  10. vinyl wrap carbon fibre blue pattern to be applied to selected plastics.
Just awaiting replacement controller as current em260s doesnt show modes or speed using one-lin, supplier James @ Dun has been very helpful in customer service and sending the replacement after trying many options.
Motor mount is being made with Derek @ lithium king and shipping with heavy duty 12 and 14 tooth 520 sprockets.
Purchased an snail style dual compressor air horn as now the elderly of the central coast wont hear me approachingon EV, the test is if i make my 86 year old mum who is very hard at hearing jump, it passes the senior test.

Hey Don on mode 2 what do you estimate mileage/kms to be with the 72v 48ah amorge battery ?
Also the throttle supplied with these kits are these the same size as standard grips, the grip on the supplied throttle isnt great ?

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DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Dave, In answer to your questions as I know, about 25Miles of single track riding on a 20S12P battery Molicel P42A's. I believe you have the Lishen cells, they have about 5% less endurace. But we have seen good mileage on the street bikes we have built. A 2006 YZ450F into a street legal super Motar electric with a 20S12P Molicel baattery, regularly drives it 40 miles.
Your second question about the throttle diameter, if it is the left and right one that comes with the wiring harness, the throttle is a little larger than a stock throttle, and it is difficult getting good standard grips on it. I take a heat shrink gun, and get the grip real soft and she goes nice and easy,
 

BlueKLXSM

New member
Update, been working hard over the past few days wiring, getting everything rough wired and placed into bike.
It now runs as I had planned, just awaiting bracket and sprockets from Derek at lithium king.
Should be test riding by the weekend.
Can't we attach videos to posts

Please excuse my crocky voice I have a wicked headcold, it mid winter here in Australia.

Will adjust and upload later
 

DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Great work getting it all ready and tested so far. You should be able to attach photos to posts, I don't know what is up with that. Boy it is the middle of the summer heat here 110-120 degree F
 

BlueKLXSM

New member
Hey Don I converted the mp4 to mpg still unable to upload so here's the link.
Yeah mid winter here at the moment looking forward to bali the end of month for 8 day winter escape, also a ride on batu volcano on husky 350s, looks amazing.
See pic.

Don you don't have a good tune file for qs138 70 votol em260 do you ?
I have the amorge battery 72v 48ah and not sure what amps max to set things up too ?

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DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
Hell with the bike , is that your beautiful riding partner. Good job mate. That sure is black dirt.
Anyway, here is a good tune, with the pictures. The pictures might be slightly different than the tune, we have made some slight changes.

Most videos have to be in Youtube format.
Don

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YZ 250 4-14 Pg 2.jpg

YZ 250 4-14 Pg 3.jpg

YZ 250 4-14 Port Settings.jpg
 

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DonCox

Well-known member
Likes
345
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
One other recommendation, on your Master On/OFF switch and Contactor. The QS10 plug that came with the battery has an anti spark feature, that only works if the Master switch and contactor are on. (continuity) , which you can't do without power hooked up ( because of the contactor). In all of my installations I use only the Master on/off switch, with a 1K10W resistor across the Master ON/OFF switch. But that won't work in your setup. If you look closely at the QS10 connector, on the Male connector the positive lug is a little longer and has split tip. This is a 5ohm resistor to soften the capacitor charge spark. It only works if it is connected to the controller directly at connection. I don't use contactors, only Master ON/OFF switch's. Here is a picture.

On another note I just picked up a 2019 KTM 450SXF Factory Edition that just needed a chain and guides. Here is a test before we start to make it electric.

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BlueKLXSM

New member
Hey Don
Thanks for the info. all that hard work beating the old coil mount to fit the contactor and now im removing it.
the controller wiring loom has a power on lead 72V postive, im thinking of just running that to the kill switch.

I have done a few tests and your correct if the key and master switch are not in the on postions strange things happen.
work around is always connect and disconnect battery when both are in the one postion.

Spent the afternoon trying to work out why on the round amazon boat gps speedo im getting all my idiot lights working left right high beam etc and on the ev display im not get any of these light, just realised no common ground as yet, as dc to dc converter is not in the loop. another item ticked off.

UPS have delay my parcel from lithium king, so brackets and sprockets will be here next week.

Wife just got home with new controller from Dun lets hope it works for modes off for round 2 with the bike
 

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