My YZ Electric conversion build

MZIENOWICZ

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12
Location
Nj
Sweet build. Figured I'd show my little build. It's a 72v 60ah 420amp battery with qs138 and ND72890 and 02 wr426 frame. It's pretty fast, comparable to like an older 250. Was thinking of building a new project with a 165 and 96v battery. Something that can sustain some real power. In the background of the pictures are blasters converted to electric. One with qs138 and one with qs165. The blue one with 165 is a beast, way too much power for little blaster frame haha but banshee's are way too expensive and I probably wouldn't want a banshee without the 2 stroke anyway. Would be sac relig. No one cares about blasters lol. I live in lake community and could never have gas powered toys, the neighbors would not be happy but the electric stuff they don't mind. No noise or pollution and no one says anything. It's a win for me, neighbors are happy and I get to build stuff. I used to build race cars, I fabbed chromoly classes. Now I like to build stuff in my garage. Expensive hobby but fun for the whole family

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It looks real nice. What cells are you using in your battery. Why did you compromise the frame. I got a 20S12P battery in the same frame with a lot of space left. We build our bike to run on the MX tracks, and I do not modify frames because of big jumps and the stress. Your work looks real good though. The bike looks real clean.
Here is a picture of the YZ250F that I did a few years ago. I put the controllers in the airbox to keep the balance closer to stock.
I am interested in your next build if it is a QS165 60H V3 , but the QS138 70H V3 motors are on the tracks like we use them do get hot at 72V 300-400A. I would like a water cooled bigger motor if we are going to throw more Watts at it. I run a Votol EM260S controller and it will overheat unless we watercool it at 300-400A in the Southwest CA and AZ.

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Lol I like the "elegance" of the battery inside the frame. I've road bikes with the battery sticking past the frame and it gets in the way. I don't like it. Personally, form and function on my builds have equal priority. Just a matter of preference I guess. The modifications are properly welded and I have no worries.

They are rs50 cells. I run my bike on the street a lot and wanted the room where the airbox is for a second small "emergency" battery
I wanted that weight lower In the frame. I ride to and from my trails and I know when I've spent my main battery, I have one to get me back home.

I know the 138"s get hot when run hard but i had an extra so i used it. I was also looking at the sotion gts35 water cooled motor but I haven't seen a lot of good reviews on it. The 165 10kw I know is a good motor, the 12kw has to be even better I'm guessing

I'm learning every build. This was my first attempt at 2 wheels. The next one I was going to make more of a dedicated track bike. But they are so much fun on the street and back trails aswell. Wisper quiet and no one bothers me.
 
Nice build. I’d like to see this “reserve” battery setup and what battery it is. The idea of carrying an extra “fuel bottle” seems good for adventuring
 
So the reserve battery is currently in the works. It's winter here in nj and perfect time for upgrades. It's a custom battery from amorge. 25ah 250amps rs50 cells. It will arrive in a couple weeks. I 3d printed a moch battery to fit into the space I need so i can make it all work while im waiting. I will be mounting 2 car EV master switches on either side of the frame to switch between the main battery and reserve battery. I 3d printed mounts for the switches so they look as professionalas possible. I also installed quick release pins for the seat and tank to have quick access to the reserve battery and controller/ Wiring. I can post final pictures when I receive the actual battery. Sorry for the pictures. They posted sideways again, not sure why

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That’s very clean, had a real close call on range recently so this is a potential solution. Can you share the outside dimensions and do you know what the pack weighs.
 
Yea quick disconnect seat, I drilled out the threads and got these push lock pins the right length to lock right behind the bolt that was drilled out. They work great!

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That’s very clean, had a real close call on range recently so this is a potential solution. Can you share the outside dimensions and do you know what the pack weighs.
The battery is a custom size and by no means fits inside the air box. The box is heavily modified along with remolding of the rear fender plastics to get the battery far away from the rear shock. The AIR box is just for looks now. The weight is what you would expect for a 20s 5p battery. Here is the charger for the second battery20260210_184631.jpg
 
So I finally got the bike done and had a chance to test it. Works amazing. Did a couple test rides. I have the backup battery set to a max of 130 amps and 45-47 mph. Ripping on it wot I get around 15 miles. Taking it easy as if I was just trying to get home I can get 25ish. This was all in 45 deg weather. Maybe I get more in the 80's.

In the woods I have a second setting for that battery at 250 amps. Just incase I feel like ripping it on the little battery. 250 peak amps in the woods is plenty!

My switch setup worked even better then I could have expected. Nothing heats up, nothing pops when switched on or off because i used real switches, not 48v stuff. I can Switch between batteries on the fly. Overall I'm pretty happy. Weather is getting better in nj and I will be able to do more riding/testing. I do have to turn re-gen down because the little battery can't handle the same as the large and I can here the BM alarm and cutout after 5 sec of breaking.

Overall a big success. Thank God because it was an expensive theory/ experiment! 20260326_220359.jpg20260326_220403.jpg?hash=8f672ec578c33837085870ec8692c440.jpg

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Is your 15 mile range just the spare battery or is that combined range using both batteries. I struggle to get 20 miles range with 96volt and 4.6KWh battery.
 
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